40m. The thin crack between Ben and Marion. (Interestingly, Brown and Wilcox had this graded HVS 5a in Pete O'Sullivan's Devon's New Climbs in 1980.)

M Brown & A Wilcox 1978

Hidden 24/Apr/16 2nd O/S
WillAndrew 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Ailish Ni Grianan ?/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with A Nimmo
mreynolds 13/Feb/16 2nd β
timreynolds 13/Feb/16 Lead
Hidden 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Adrian Daniels 18/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Bailed right into Marion about half way up

with Steve Webster
The Ivanator 22/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Toby
ChristyCole 20/Jul/15 TR O/S


Hidden 21/Jun/15 2nd O/S
g.chalker 05/Jun/15 Lead O/S
andrewmc 25/May/15 Lead rpt

Takes lots of rubbish micro gear but the occasional bomber nut placement. Easy angled slab but really thin for the grade, a few long reaches from high steps needed, very sustained on the feet without many rests! Fantastic route.

with Guy Freeman
J.A.Thomson 12/May/15 TR O/S
Steve Woollard 04/Apr/15 Lead
with Bob Dawson
leoneb 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ric Purnell
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
peter.ravenscroft27 24/Sep/14 Lead

Lead today without knowledge of what it was, assuming it would be a casual baggy Server, turned into classic bold slab climbing. i considered at the top it was a Bold VS or a soft touch HVS... turns out i was bob on! Cracking route. used a micro nut at the second crux

with Becky Evans
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Norman_P_W 18/Jul/14 2nd
with Bob M
Bob M 18/Jul/14 Lead

Excellent climbing, but glad to see that I'm not the only one to have found this hard. Lots of 5a moves and sketchy protection in places. Solid HVS in my book.

beckett45 03/Jul/14 Lead
gateaublaster 02/Jul/14 Lead dnf

went off route near the top and finished on Ben for last few meters .. very nice climbing .. hardest lead to date .. =D

jon59 ??/2014 -
Hidden ?/Sep/13 -
Lumbering Oaf 09/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Certainly a harder route than In Marion's Eyes the VS5a next door. Perhaps the grades should be swapped around!

manbat 09/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Bugger, just too hard for me. When I seconded the route I felt I'd made the right decision backing off.

manbat 09/Jul/13 2nd O/S
mike hooper 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

This needs a look at .. And slap some stars on cracking route

with jobey martin
Joby 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Definitely worth some stars and much harder than the grade suggests, some proper moves going on with very thin gear.

with Mike Hooper
Rassapotimus 24/Jun/13 2nd
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Hidden 20/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK 22/Jun/12 TR O/S

HVS 5a

with Mr Shunt
Lumbering Oaf 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S

IMPs handy on this route. Good, interesting climbing.

Hidden 26/Mar/12 2nd
Mistee 16/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Phil
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
Jim Malo 28/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Bailed into Ben near the top. Thin for VS.

with Putt
Rob84 17/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Lou Knight
Ian JL 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Chris Sansum 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Gary Lewin
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd
Kris suriyo 03/Mar/11 Lead O/S
twodada 12/Sep/10 Lead

very thin for VS, delicate footwork/smear's on some small handholds. Not in rockfax guide, but should be ats a great climb, and conistently testing all the way up. Gear is poor low down, and not much better higher up.

with Seb Fisher Green, Jim Robinson
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
cjohn62 11/Sep/10 2nd
with martin
gareth r 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Keith
ranga 31/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Ben Sidsaph 03/Jul/10 Lead

Flippin scary, first route I ever used peenuts on and they were needed

with ian timbrell
mreynolds 02/Jul/10 2nd O/S
timreynolds 02/Jul/10 Lead
Richard Morgan 30/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Had to set up a hanging belay as tide was wetting my belayer. Painful rockshoes then forced a finish up a severe off left

nick hawkins 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with steve
Ybot Htulk ?/Jun/10 2nd
with Richard
jamessandels 03/May/10 Lead
with Tim stevens
Hidden 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S
MGrock ??/2010 -
Joolz ??/2010 Lead
TP ??/2010 Lead
Ybot Htulk ?/Oct/09 Lead
with Sonya
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead
RiPomc 19/Sep/09 Lead
with Julie Cooke
JCookie 19/Sep/09 2nd
with Richard Plater
Hidden 11/Jun/09 Lead
Master Chief 14/May/09 TR O/S
jgclimb 14/May/09 TR
with tom
Hidden ?/Dec/08 2nd
erica 29/Sep/08 2nd
with John
John Brayshaw 29/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Erica
Hidden 03/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/08 2nd O/S
M_W_Court 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
SteveM 08/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Tobs
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
andysroom ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
buddha1369 21/Oct/07 2nd O/S
kristofferalpsjo ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Toby Kluth
gareth r 08/Sep/07 2nd
with Hywel
Dave Searle 21/Jul/07 Lead
with sim
Dan Shirley 21/Jun/07 Lead O/S
upontop ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Chris
climber sim ??/2007 -
gareth r 09/Sep/06 Lead dnf

Managed to lead up to blank bit in the middle, then got lost. Finished on Ben. Desperately thin.

with Martin
Hidden ?/May/06 2nd O/S
Danhan 10/Sep/05 2nd
with Nick
Hidden 10/Sep/05 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/05 Lead
Hidden 28/Mar/05 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Oct/04 2nd O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Aug/03 Lead

Worth HVS and *

with Debbie Wilkinson
AngelaC 30/Jun/03 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
MKH ??/2001 Lead O/S
Bob M 18/Jun/00 -
with Jill Stevens
Hidden 11/Mar/00 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 -
Mickdenali ??/1998 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ??/1997 AltLd
craig h 29/May/96 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
pezzerrr ??/1996 Lead O/S
sdht ??/1993 -
Andy Say 26/Apr/91 Solo
Hidden 03/Mar/90 Solo
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1990 Lead
with Therry Cooper
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
kp64zl ?/Dec/89 Lead
davidalcock ??/1988 -

Used to be HVS in the 80s, but felt soft for the grade.

with Philip Scorer
Ena ??/1983 -
Mike C 31/Oct/82 Lead
with John Fowler
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 28
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set