UKC

75m, 3 pitches. Fine climbing on good rock, adequately protected and in superb positions. Most atmospheric at mid to high tide. The route follows a conspicuous break which traverses the whole face from south to north. Fine climbing on good rock with adequate protection. Most atmospheric at mid to high tide. Abseil directly to a ledge at the southern end of the traverse line. Move a few metres left along the ledge to where it is possible to arrange a belay with a view of the climb ahead.
1) 5a, 35m. Follow the natural break line leftwards. Hand-traverse a short section past guano-covered rock, and continue traversing till a fine Cam slot is reached. Step down and swing boldly left to a good foothold. Climb steeply leftwards to gain a commodious ledge. The second can remove the cam and place it at foot level to protect the precarious move down.
2) 30m. Continue traversing more easily to near the end of the ledge.
3) 4a, 10m. From the left end of the ledge, step down and cross a corner to gain the finishing slab.

FA. Andrew Wielochowski, Noel Williams 16/May/2018.

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Guidebooks for Uig Sea Cliffs North-East - Valtos

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Route of Interest
Eureka

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Sròn Uladail (Strone Ulladale))

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