90m, 2 pitches.
A bizarre line that seems to be rarely climbed for good reason and for no good reason. The route probably has one of the most interesting crux sections at Kaldklova, but for strangely the line sees very few ascents.
The first crux is the approach through the overgrown jungle to the base of the line. The guidebook suggests n4 to n5 for the grade, but n5- is reasonable for the route. It should also be noted that the rock here typically features shallow, flared groves up smooth walls, that are relatively difficult to protect. Therefore, some of the climbing, although straightforward, can be quite run out.
P1: n5- This is actually a very good pitch, however it is a little uncertain if the topo is correct or not. The description seems to include the dihedral but the topo shows the line to trend right onto the wall just before it. Climb the straightforward but not very well protected lower part by a series of steps and shallow cracks, to the large groove below the dihedral (it is possible to make a belay here if doing the route in 3 pitches). The guide shows the route as trending to the right onto the face at this point. This will miss the dihedral and you will find yourself positioned on a small ledge/flake, facing a precarious and somewhat unprotected wall. An option is instead (which may actually be the correct line of the route) is to climb the dihedral which offers well protected layback/ crack climbing and then trend right onto the arête. Continue up to a tree belay on a very overgrown shelf.
P2: n4? Follow the continuation of the crack system from P1 to the top. Likely poorly protected climbing up shallow grooves that offer little or no protection.
Descent can be made via Åstedet, or walk off via the quarry on the NE end of the crag.
The first crux is the approach through the overgrown jungle to the base of the line. The guidebook suggests n4 to n5 for the grade, but n5- is reasonable for the route. It should also be noted that the rock here typically features shallow, flared groves up smooth walls, that are relatively difficult to protect. Therefore, some of the climbing, although straightforward, can be quite run out.
P1: n5- This is actually a very good pitch, however it is a little uncertain if the topo is correct or not. The description seems to include the dihedral but the topo shows the line to trend right onto the wall just before it. Climb the straightforward but not very well protected lower part by a series of steps and shallow cracks, to the large groove below the dihedral (it is possible to make a belay here if doing the route in 3 pitches). The guide shows the route as trending to the right onto the face at this point. This will miss the dihedral and you will find yourself positioned on a small ledge/flake, facing a precarious and somewhat unprotected wall. An option is instead (which may actually be the correct line of the route) is to climb the dihedral which offers well protected layback/ crack climbing and then trend right onto the arête. Continue up to a tree belay on a very overgrown shelf.
P2: n4? Follow the continuation of the crack system from P1 to the top. Likely poorly protected climbing up shallow grooves that offer little or no protection.
Descent can be made via Åstedet, or walk off via the quarry on the NE end of the crag.
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
2 users have logged this
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Lyneggen
Grade: n5- ***
(Størenhammeren)