Rockfax Description
The cracks and headwall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The obvious slabby buttress with a wide crack in its right side. Pass a single bolt to a roof and juggy headwall.

For the record: A retro-bolt has been placed at 50ft by the 1 st ascentionist. His rationale is that since the first ascent the gear placements below the crux roof have deteriorated to such an extent that they are unlikely to hold a leader fall. If the gear failed, from this height, the fall is potentially fatal. If you don't agree, don't clip.

G Lewis, S Blackman 1982

Ticklists: CUMC Ticklist, South Wales by Train (from Cardiff).


ClimberDateStyle
jamie_bkc 22/Jan Lead O/S

Clipped the bolts, no shame.

RhysRolfe 03/Oct/16 Lead rpt
KiranV 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S
dkilner 14/Sep/16 2nd
with Kiranv
partz 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Gopping wet, but doable. Lovely climbing down low

with Homer
Hidden 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Climbingenthusiast 31/Aug/16 2nd β
dkilner 31/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with james
No? Yes! 03/Jul/16 Lead

Only 1 bolt at overhang - welcome as gear placements scarce ?

with John the Dec
chris wyatt 10/Apr/16 -

Did a hybrid of this and a blank abstract - about 6a+

with ernesto
dkilner 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Dan
Rusty Grylls 01/Nov/15 TR O/S
RhysRolfe 01/Nov/15 Lead dnf

backed off from the second crack, couldn't find any gear, then found 3 offset placements!

Hidden 14/Oct/15 2nd rpt
Rob McGurk 14/Oct/15 Lead β
pdrums777 01/Sep/15 Lead O/S

went slightly off route at the ravens nest, clipped the bolt.

with Gareth (trev)
gman2 01/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with paul
Hidden 31/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Steve Lewis 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with ZClegg
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead
Cheese Monkey 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Really nice

with Liam J
Hidden 28/Jun/15 Lead rpt
mattrm 25/Jun/15 2nd O/S

There's two bolts in this now? Rather ruins the route really.

Hidden 25/Jun/15 Lead rpt
simo 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S

First trad lead.

with Shane
rsmith0903 16/May/15 Lead
chrisg90 16/May/15 Lead O/S
rhys mence 18/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Dan Hobbs
VPJB 15/Mar/15 Lead

Very easy climb.

with Tom Guttridge
Hidden 01/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead rpt
AndrewP 04/Oct/14 Lead O/S
FelixPeterken 04/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with AndrewP
jammy4536 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
spearing05 28/Jul/14 TR rpt

5 repeats, first leg of pyramid

with Andrew
Hidden 28/Jul/14 TR rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/14 TR rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/14 TR rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/14 TR rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/14 TR rpt
AJR 05/Jul/14 TR O/S
Didymus 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ra
Giles Davis 26/May/14 Lead rpt
Giles Davis 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Clipped the bolt. I have no problems with the ethics of clipping bolts on hybrid routes :-) Also placed two No.2 Camelots in the drill holes above.

Hidden 04/May/14 -
Dafydd Llywelyn 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
tommccluskey 09/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Dafydd
tommccluskey 16/Feb/14 2nd rpt
with Petar
Petar Samkov 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
alan rosier 01/Dec/13 Lead rpt
matjam 28/Nov/13 Lead rpt
jessbinx 29/Sep/13 2nd β
with Deej, Tom <3
tommccluskey 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Shamefully clipped the bolt

with Deej, Jess
Marti999 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
gingernick ?/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Darrell
spearing05 09/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Andrew
Hidden 25/Jun/13 2nd
mauricechetwyndwoods1 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Leo Grabowski
leo-z-g 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Maurice
ollieboy ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

didn't clip the bolt as that's just cheating :P

with ronan murphy, chris bagworth
tweedcore 04/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Tym
Dr Toph 11/Dec/12 Solo rpt
Velo Orange 11/Nov/12 2nd
with Toph
Dr Toph 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Didnt clip the bolt, but that does render the headwall essentially a solo. Nice wee route!

with Emily
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead rpt
imogen.fish 12/Oct/12 Lead rpt
steve-grigg 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
matjam 13/Sep/12 Lead rpt
alan rosier 01/Sep/12 Lead rpt
mattrm 08/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Lovely climb, great moves. Romped up at the end of the day. Have to come back and lead.

with Becky Athay
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead rpt
spearing05 19/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Andrew
Hidden 19/Jun/12 Lead rpt
matjam 29/May/12 Lead
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S
scoot 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/11 2nd
matjam 20/Jul/11 2nd
matjam 20/Jul/11 Lead
gareth r 19/Jun/11 Lead β
with Paul
huwmjames 11/Jun/11 Lead
James_86 24/Apr/11 -
with Stu
Danny Bags ??/2011 -
Hidden 13/Nov/10 2nd O/S
s.c.white 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
nutcracker 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Mark Barrett
Hidden 01/Sep/10 2nd rpt
muttley_109 24/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Peter
Hidden 11/Aug/10 2nd rpt
muttley_109 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Gary Lewis
TomBailey 24/Jun/10 Lead rpt
adrianjenner 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Giles Davis 27/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/May/10 Lead O/S
Herron 20/Mar/10 TR O/S
with Suzanne Richards, Shane Underwood
sdi 01/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Cheated and clipped the bolt after a 5min ethical dilemma (OK, I was worried the bird was going to return to its massive nest on the ledge next to the bolt and knock me off).

with Steve B
spbond 01/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Stef
Paul Bowen 03/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with John Crane
Hidden 22/May/09 Lead O/S
hash 20/May/09 Lead rpt
with Mark Batey
chrisjones199 20/May/09 Lead O/S
with Eefu
Hidden 20/May/09 Lead rpt
Mark Batey 20/May/09 2nd O/S
with Hash Popat
Christian Reynish 02/May/09 TR O/S
with Russell
eagleopus 24/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Gareth
thelittlejo 18/May/08 2nd O/S

Trad second

Hidden 18/May/08 Lead
hash 19/Mar/08 TR rpt
DafSWMC 27/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Hash
hash 27/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with DafSWMC
Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Feb/08 TR O/S
Ollie B ??/2008 Lead O/S
with various
Hidden ??/2008 -
Mark Salter 23/Aug/07 Lead β

I've done this route a few times now and it never had a bolt on it. Don't know why it has now - brings the grade right down in my opinion. Shame, as its a good climb but better with some adventure!

with Ben Carter
Andy White 01/Aug/07 TR
Clucky 12/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Steven Sylvester
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
mikeshewring ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Bux ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Harry Honan
Hidden 28/May/06 TR RP
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Laramadness 06/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/00 Lead O/S
Brucifer 01/Jun/99 2nd
alan rosier 01/Jun/99 Lead RP
alan moore ??/1995 -

Bolted now!? Nasty!

Nigel R Lewis 12/Jul/93 Lead
goi.ashmore 06/Sep/91 Lead O/S

I can't believe this has been retrobolted!

with Rich Lawrence, Phil Bent
sablackman ??/1982 2nd O/S
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set