Rockfax Description
The cracks and headwall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The obvious slabby buttress with a wide crack in its right side. Pass a single bolt to a roof and juggy headwall.

For the record: A retro-bolt has been placed at 50ft by the 1 st ascentionist. His rationale is that since the first ascent the gear placements below the crux roof have deteriorated to such an extent that they are unlikely to hold a leader fall. If the gear failed, from this height, the fall is potentially fatal. If you don't agree, don't clip.

G Lewis, S Blackman 1982

Ticklists: CUMC Ticklist, South Wales by Train (from Cardiff), No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff).

Alex Seekings 06/Jan 2nd O/S

Did in gloves and boots, due to the wet (and snowy) conditions. Good fun

Danswygart 06/Jan Lead
leo-z-g 06/Jan 2nd rpt

Cold and wet. Numb fingers at the top. Every hold felt bad

with Dan swygart
myrddinmuse 06/Jan Lead O/S

Pleasant. One to solo in warmer tines. (?)

with Alex Seekings
JackneyMiddleton 11/Dec/17 Lead O/S
with Rhys
RhysRolfe 11/Dec/17 2nd rpt
with Jackney
hmetoomey 04/Oct/17 2nd O/S

Lovely route! looking forward to leading it sometime soon!!

BHuthers 04/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable route!

Aaron owen 02/Oct/17 Lead O/S
wilchivs 21/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with James Taylor
Climbingenthusiast 21/Aug/17 Lead rpt
Mjohns 12/Aug/17 -
with Gary Lewis
alexn 07/Jul/17 -


with jules
julesmckim 05/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Bold for a VS even with the bolt.

with Alex Nichols
mr_w ?/Jul/17 2nd O/S
curon 14/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with SteveK
jamie_bkc 22/Jan/17 Lead O/S

Clipped the bolts, no shame.

RhysRolfe 03/Oct/16 Lead rpt
KiranV 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S
dkilner 14/Sep/16 2nd
with Kiranv
partz 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Gopping wet, but doable. Lovely climbing down low

with Homer
Hidden 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Climbingenthusiast 31/Aug/16 2nd β
dkilner 31/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with james
No? Yes! 03/Jul/16 Lead

Only 1 bolt at overhang - welcome as gear placements scarce ?

with John the Dec
chris wyatt 10/Apr/16 -

Did a hybrid of this and a blank abstract - about 6a+

with ernesto
dkilner 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Dan
Rusty Grylls 01/Nov/15 TR O/S
RhysRolfe 01/Nov/15 Lead dnf

backed off from the second crack, couldn't find any gear, then found 3 offset placements!

Hidden 14/Oct/15 2nd rpt
Rob McGurk 14/Oct/15 Lead β
pdrums777 01/Sep/15 Lead O/S

went slightly off route at the ravens nest, clipped the bolt.

with Gareth (trev)
gman2 01/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with paul
Hidden 31/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Steve Lewis 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with ZClegg
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead
Cheese Monkey 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Really nice

with Liam J
Hidden 28/Jun/15 Lead rpt
mattrm 25/Jun/15 2nd O/S

There's two bolts in this now? Rather ruins the route really.

Hidden 25/Jun/15 Lead rpt
simo 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S

First trad lead.

with Shane
rsmith0903 16/May/15 Lead
chrisg90 16/May/15 Lead O/S
rhys mence 18/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Dan Hobbs
VPJB 15/Mar/15 Lead

Very easy climb.

with Tom Guttridge
Hidden 01/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead rpt
AndrewP 04/Oct/14 Lead O/S
FelixPeterken 04/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with AndrewP
jammy4536 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
spearing05 28/Jul/14 TR rpt

5 repeats, first leg of pyramid

with Andrew
Hidden 28/Jul/14 TR rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/14 TR rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/14 TR rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/14 TR rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/14 TR rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/14 TR O/S
Didymus 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ra
Giles Davis 26/May/14 Lead rpt
Giles Davis 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Clipped the bolt. I have no problems with the ethics of clipping bolts on hybrid routes :-) Also placed two No.2 Camelots in the drill holes above.

Hidden 04/May/14 -
Dafydd Llywelyn 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
tommccluskey 09/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Dafydd
tommccluskey 16/Feb/14 2nd rpt
with Petar
Petar Samkov 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
matjam 28/Nov/13 Lead rpt
jessbinx 29/Sep/13 2nd β
with Deej, Tom <3
tommccluskey 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Shamefully clipped the bolt

with Deej, Jess
Marti999 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
gingernick ?/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Darrell
spearing05 09/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Andrew
Hidden 25/Jun/13 2nd
mauricechetwyndwoods1 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Leo Grabowski
leo-z-g 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Maurice
ollieboy ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

didn't clip the bolt as that's just cheating :P

with ronan murphy, chris bagworth
tweedcore 04/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Tym
Dr Toph 11/Dec/12 Solo rpt
EmilyN 11/Nov/12 2nd
with Toph
Dr Toph 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Didnt clip the bolt, but that does render the headwall essentially a solo. Nice wee route!

with Emily
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead rpt 12/Oct/12 Lead rpt
steve-grigg 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
matjam 13/Sep/12 Lead rpt
mattrm 08/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Lovely climb, great moves. Romped up at the end of the day. Have to come back and lead.

with Becky Athay
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead rpt
spearing05 19/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Andrew
Hidden 19/Jun/12 Lead rpt
matjam 29/May/12 Lead
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S
scoot 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/11 2nd
matjam 20/Jul/11 2nd
matjam 20/Jul/11 Lead
gareth r 19/Jun/11 Lead β
with Paul
huwmjames 11/Jun/11 Lead
James_86 24/Apr/11 -
with Stu
Danny Bags ??/2011 -
Hidden 13/Nov/10 2nd O/S
s.c.white 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
nutcracker 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Mark Barrett
Hidden 01/Sep/10 2nd rpt
muttley_109 24/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Peter
Hidden 11/Aug/10 2nd rpt
muttley_109 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Gary Lewis
TomBailey 24/Jun/10 Lead rpt
adrianjenner 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Giles Davis 27/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/May/10 Lead O/S
Herron 20/Mar/10 TR O/S
with Suzanne Richards, Shane Underwood
sdi 01/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Cheated and clipped the bolt after a 5min ethical dilemma (OK, I was worried the bird was going to return to its massive nest on the ledge next to the bolt and knock me off).

with Steve B
spbond 01/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Stef
Paul Bowen 03/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with John Crane
Hidden 22/May/09 Lead O/S
hash 20/May/09 Lead rpt
with Mark Batey
chrisjones199 20/May/09 Lead O/S
with Eefu
Hidden 20/May/09 Lead rpt
Mark Batey 20/May/09 2nd O/S
with Hash Popat
Christian Reynish 02/May/09 TR O/S
with Russell
eagleopus 24/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Gareth
thelittlejo 18/May/08 2nd O/S

Trad second

Hidden 18/May/08 Lead
hash 19/Mar/08 TR rpt
DafSWMC 27/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Hash
hash 27/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with DafSWMC
Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Feb/08 TR O/S
Ollie B ??/2008 Lead O/S
with various
Hidden ??/2008 -
Mark Salter 23/Aug/07 Lead β

I've done this route a few times now and it never had a bolt on it. Don't know why it has now - brings the grade right down in my opinion. Shame, as its a good climb but better with some adventure!

with Ben Carter
Andy White 01/Aug/07 TR
Clucky 12/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Steven Sylvester
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
mikeshewring ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Bux ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Harry Honan
Hidden 28/May/06 TR RP
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 28/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Laramadness 06/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/00 Lead O/S
Brucifer 01/Jun/99 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/99 Lead RP
alan moore ??/1995 -

Bolted now!? Nasty!

Nigel R Lewis 12/Jul/93 Lead
goi.ashmore 06/Sep/91 Lead O/S

I can't believe this has been retrobolted!

with Rich Lawrence, Phil Bent
sablackman ??/1982 2nd O/S
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