Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Climb the right side of the pinnacle propped in the corner, passing a keyed-in block and tree. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the large crack, plus pockets out right, until you make a difficult move up to the rock bar. Mount the ledge and climb the groove until trending right to the belay tree (abseil tat in place).
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Webster | 22 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: it is probably best to trend right at the top and use the belay on iron curtain, the top out direct is heinous and there is no belay... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: it is probably best to trend right at the top and use the belay on iron curtain, the top out direct is heinous and there is no belay... |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Left Hand Route
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wintour's Leap)