This route is to the left of Organ grinder, and shares a start with Temporary truce (VS 4c). Climb to the low ledge, then move up and left on rock with few features. Follow a thin crack up until a you are both a few meters below (and to the left of) the obvious overhang at the top of the route. Here, you deviate from the line of Dictator (HVS 5a, which continues straight up), by stepping right around the arete, and ascending the slight overhang.

Note: This route is believed to be either a very soft E1 or High HVS, with good gear all the way

Ticklists

Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Ian Stirrups 20 Aug Lead rpt Climbed this generally badly, except for the crux traverse, but still felt HVS
with Sue
Climbed this generally badly, except for the crux traverse, but still felt HVS
with Sue
Hexman 27 Jul Lead O/S
Pete Randall 27 Jul Lead O/S
with JulianB
with JulianB
Hidden 27 Jul 2nd O/S
BStar 30 Jun Lead O/S Found this a little tricky, a bit of a sequence of crimps above microwires didn't make me want to run up this route. E1 5a for me
Found this a little tricky, a bit of a sequence of crimps above microwires didn't make me want to run up this route. E1 5a for me
Rachael88 30 Jun 2nd
with BStar
with BStar
ali.scott 29 Jun Lead O/S definitely HVS
with Terry, Matt G
definitely HVS
with Terry, Matt G
stvredmond 1 May Lead
George Cox 22 Apr Lead O/S
with iog123
with iog123
Hidden 22 Apr 2nd O/S
poeter210 30 Mar 2nd O/S
with druss
with druss
Hidden 30 Mar Lead O/S
AWalker96 24 Mar Lead O/S
with Clara
with Clara
Ashley King 24 Mar 2nd rpt Sam led. Got in loads of gear and didn’t have any problems. Probably shouldn’t be E1 though! Felt more like mid HVS.
Sam led. Got in loads of gear and didn’t have any problems. Probably shouldn’t be E1 though! Felt more like mid HVS.
Sam Huguet 24 Mar Lead O/S Sunday of leading in the sun. Not that hard a route really, and super well protected so I think it's more of an HVS
Sunday of leading in the sun. Not that hard a route really, and super well protected so I think it's more of an HVS
whoisjosh 21 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S
with Chris
with Chris
Hidden 21 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Country_Boy 5 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Our first E1! Have to say that it didn't feel particularly harder than the other HVS routes that we have tried. The section that deviates from Dictator felt well protected with technical but not hard climbing. The most technical moves were on the lower Dictator section. Anyway, it was a nice route, very worthwhile.
with Jane
Our first E1! Have to say that it didn't feel particularly harder than the other HVS routes that we have tried. The section that deviates from Dictator felt well protected with technical but not hard climbing. The most technical moves were on the lower Dictator section. Anyway, it was a nice route, very worthwhile.
with Jane
Hidden 1 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Dave Cundy 15 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Christian Saxtoft
with Christian Saxtoft
jing 14 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with vyl20
with vyl20
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
DoMakeSayThink 10 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S A few scary unprotected moves after the first bit of gear. The rest was type 1 fun. First E1 lead.
A few scary unprotected moves after the first bit of gear. The rest was type 1 fun. First E1 lead.
Ashley King 10 Jun, 2018 Lead β A very easy E1, probably only gets the grade due to the run out at the beginning and the no gear on the traverse. A route worth doing though.
A very easy E1, probably only gets the grade due to the run out at the beginning and the no gear on the traverse. A route worth doing though.
Becky Athay 10 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Sam Cann
with Sam Cann
nathanjmasters 10 Jun, 2018 2nd
steve_gibbs 10 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 12 May, 2018 2nd rpt up and down again. cheeky climb during a walk with munchkin
with Paz
up and down again. cheeky climb during a walk with munchkin
with Paz
Paz 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S Very steady. Never hard. Reasonable gear. Not sure why this is E1.
with PM, jake lee
Very steady. Never hard. Reasonable gear. Not sure why this is E1.
with PM, jake lee
Marti999 6 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Russtygibbons 12 Nov, 2017 2nd
ASchwirtz 12 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
ripper 18 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt just flows really nicely
just flows really nicely
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 2nd
TwofoZeus 17 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
with ripper
with ripper
Katsmiff 3 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S Not well protected at the start. Balancy traverse in the middle. The end with the small overhang was quite easy. Not a strenuous climb.
Not well protected at the start. Balancy traverse in the middle. The end with the small overhang was quite easy. Not a strenuous climb.
Rafal Malczyk 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 May, 2017 Lead rpt
Sam Watson 23 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Overgraded at e1 but more fun than Dictator
Overgraded at e1 but more fun than Dictator
Ian Stirrups 9 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
with Sue
with Sue
ripper 18 Jun, 2016 2nd
jon_gill1 18 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with ripper
with ripper
Neil 5 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Sarah Black 3 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Robnort 12 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
with pcloust
with pcloust
Hidden 1 Sep, 2015 Lead RP
Dale ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S The description in the guide for the start is a little confusing. Johny wouldn't tell me which way to go. But once I realised going direct from the first ledge was no way e1 5a then I soon sorted it out. Easy for the grade very good plenty of rests probably more like hvs. Anna also got up this well her arms were tired after this one
with Anna
The description in the guide for the start is a little confusing. Johny wouldn't tell me which way to go. But once I realised going direct from the first ledge was no way e1 5a then I soon sorted it out. Easy for the grade very good plenty of rests probably more like hvs. Anna also got up this well her arms were tired after this one
with Anna
Andy Clarke 31 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Enjoyable climbing but not sure I took the right line at the start, despite it seeming to fit well with guidebook description. The independent upper part is obvious though and definitely feels HVS.
with Johnny
Enjoyable climbing but not sure I took the right line at the start, despite it seeming to fit well with guidebook description. The independent upper part is obvious though and definitely feels HVS.
with Johnny
will_benfold 19 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
casey johns 27 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
Ian Stirrups 25 Jun, 2015 Lead
with Sue
with Sue
AngelaC 12 May, 2015 2nd
benland 9 May, 2015 2nd O/S First time seconding an E1!
First time seconding an E1!
Constant Solo 9 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with benland
with benland
Moby Copperfield 9 May, 2015 TR O/S
Dave Mahon 14 Jul, 2014 Lead soft for the grade
with Justin Sharpe
soft for the grade
with Justin Sharpe
andrzej kierzek 14 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S Hardest move is the bottom, shared with Dictator, HVS.
with Andy Forbes
Hardest move is the bottom, shared with Dictator, HVS.
with Andy Forbes
wurzelinzummerset 13 Apr, 2014 2nd
bonelessivar 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
tobydunford 30 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with Oli
with Oli
gareth r ??, 2014 Lead
tomhull 4 Sep, 2013 2nd β
with Stephen Cumberland
with Stephen Cumberland
Phil Murray 1 Sep, 2013 Lead rpt Went up the harder start of Dictator (foot slipped but stayed on), then left into Traitor, as per guidebook. Really good. Run out at the traverse-> next bit, so E1? Otherwise soft touch.
with Lynne Williams
Went up the harder start of Dictator (foot slipped but stayed on), then left into Traitor, as per guidebook. Really good. Run out at the traverse-> next bit, so E1? Otherwise soft touch.
with Lynne Williams
Joe Innes 18 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
crispycodd 25 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
with simon pearcey, Malbogies
with simon pearcey, Malbogies
Hidden 9 Jun, 2013 2nd
Ali.B 5 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S A couple of powerful moves but solid gear always available.
with MikeDinsdale
A couple of powerful moves but solid gear always available.
with MikeDinsdale
Hidden 5 Jun, 2013 2nd
gripped01 5 Jun, 2013 Lead
with Mark Hill
with Mark Hill
Gibbo 23 Apr, 2013 2nd
with Ollie Keynes
with Ollie Keynes
Simon Allcock 14 Oct, 2012 2nd
with Wilki
with Wilki
Brucifer 22 Sep, 2012 2nd
zcsharp 22 Sep, 2012 Lead β
with John Bennetts, Ollie Stevens
with John Bennetts, Ollie Stevens
Hidden 22 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Ali.B 17 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with MikeDinsdale
with MikeDinsdale
mes32 15 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Pretty soft, but fun.
with Aeron
Pretty soft, but fun.
with Aeron
Vnockles 15 Sep, 2012 2nd
cameron_hall 15 Sep, 2012 Lead β
ericinbristol 2 Sep, 2012 Lead rpt 15th of 17 routes in 6 hours.
with Johnny S
15th of 17 routes in 6 hours.
with Johnny S
Hidden ?Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
evhall 21 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Huge jugs at overhang...
with Dave F
Huge jugs at overhang...
with Dave F
zadurrani 13 May, 2012 Lead O/S My first ever E1 lead... Exhilarating !
My first ever E1 lead... Exhilarating !
Rick Ashton 12 May, 2012 Lead O/S Surely this can not be an e1. Very very easy.
with Big Lee
Surely this can not be an e1. Very very easy.
with Big Lee
Big Lee 12 May, 2012 2nd O/S This can't be E1 surely??
This can't be E1 surely??
jtree03 23 Oct, 2011 Lead
with dazza
with dazza
1202alarm 14 Oct, 2011 2nd
dprctr 9 Oct, 2011 2nd β Fun and varied. Shame about the loose rock at the belay going into our friends eye. Always look down.
with rd20
Fun and varied. Shame about the loose rock at the belay going into our friends eye. Always look down.
with rd20
rd20 9 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S First onsite E1 Pleasure swiftly gone after I knocked a stone off when starting abseil which hit Martin in the eye.
with dprctr
First onsite E1 Pleasure swiftly gone after I knocked a stone off when starting abseil which hit Martin in the eye.
with dprctr
Albie 21 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Eyed this one up and thought that the upper sections looked ok. Forgot that the hard stuff was at the bottom. Proper tricky moves with poor gear placements. Once the was done the rest was rather more straightforward HVS territory with a loveely layback finnish. This would only rate HVS on Stannage though.
with Roman Jivkov
Eyed this one up and thought that the upper sections looked ok. Forgot that the hard stuff was at the bottom. Proper tricky moves with poor gear placements. Once the was done the rest was rather more straightforward HVS territory with a loveely layback finnish. This would only rate HVS on Stannage though.
with Roman Jivkov
eduardo 24 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Soft touch. Hardest bit was at the bottom, stepping left then up, avoiding using the crack of Temporary truce. Top was reasonably straightforward and reasonably protected.
with Ian W
Soft touch. Hardest bit was at the bottom, stepping left then up, avoiding using the crack of Temporary truce. Top was reasonably straightforward and reasonably protected.
with Ian W
Ian JL 10 Jul, 2011 Lead rpt
3 Names 3 Jul, 2011 2nd rpt
Hidden 3 Jul, 2011 2nd
Ian JL 3 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
GaynorPaton ?Jun, 2011 2nd
s.c.white 25 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Paul Robertson 26 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Andy Chubb 25 Jul, 2010 Lead
with Nick Gregory
with Nick Gregory
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Jun, 2010 2nd
Phil Murray 20 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Nice, soft touch, not really E1, but runout thru crux so I guess that's why its given E1?
with Tanya
Nice, soft touch, not really E1, but runout thru crux so I guess that's why its given E1?
with Tanya
Hidden ?Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2010 Lead rpt
chrisallan 23 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 10 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with tl
with tl
stvredmond 4 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S definately 5a moves though run out giving it the E grade, very tasty climb
definately 5a moves though run out giving it the E grade, very tasty climb
Jacob Ram 4 Mar, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 23 May, 2009 Lead O/S very soft for the grade
with Eric Herring
very soft for the grade
with Eric Herring
just one more 22 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Max B
with Max B
Hidden 18 Apr, 2009 Lead
martinazando 18 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
with Nick Record
with Nick Record
al99 18 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
quiffhanger ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Mark Walter 22 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with dave657
with dave657
Hidden 22 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
Ian Stirrups 17 Jun, 2008 - Softest E1 in the guide? Not even hard for HVS
with Sue
Softest E1 in the guide? Not even hard for HVS
with Sue
Rob84 9 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
with Andy F
with Andy F
bpmclimb 16 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S A bit easy for E1. Good climb though.
A bit easy for E1. Good climb though.
Mark Davies PK 5 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S E1 in new guide but i think HVS 5a ** is about right - really good route
with James Moyle
E1 in new guide but i think HVS 5a ** is about right - really good route
with James Moyle
James Moyle 5 Apr, 2008 2nd O/S
ericinbristol ??, 2008 Lead rpt
with Ray Sullivan
with Ray Sullivan
eagleopus 10 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S Interesting top out
with Kim
Interesting top out
with Kim
Hillseeker 10 Jun, 2007 Lead
with Ian Atkins
with Ian Atkins
markysums ??, 2003 Lead
Will Homoky 3 Sep, 2000 Lead O/S
with Laura hendrey
with Laura hendrey
scott titt ??, 1993 -
Nigel Coe ??, 1993 -
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 37
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set