UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This combination of routes gets you from the very base pretty much to the very top, up a reasonable set of trad pitches with a couple of sport connections.
1) VS 4c. Runup. Start from way down in the base. Belay at the top or continue to the belay below the next pitch.
2) E1 5a. Looning The Tube. The best pitch.
3) 5a. Steps of Glory. A sport connection.
4) 6a. Sodor. A sport connection - alternatives exist.
5) E1 5b. M.I.L. Arete. A nice arete.
6) HVS 5a. Razorback. The crack.
7) HVS 5a. Digital Delection. A great climb. Drop down and go through the tunnel for the next one.
8) VS 4c. The Shining. Not the best pitch. The two easy sport routes to the right are alternatives.
9) VS 4b. Goblin Party. A fine finish virtually at the top of the vast bowl. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
AlexF99 30 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I Led the 5a sport route in the middle. Mike did the rest. Completed in 2 Hours 48 Minutes
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I Led the 5a sport route in the middle. Mike did the rest. Completed in 2 Hours 48 Minutes
JaySheppard 6 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A little unnerved by the fact there were only 5 logs of this before we did it but it was a fun day and pretty epic to slowly ascend the entire west face of the Australia col. We swung leads all the way up, took us over 6 hours total but probably could have been quicker if it wasn\'t our 4th day on. A good variety of pitches throughout that are a mix of classics, esoterica, bolts and dubious gear that accurately reflect the slate trad experience. The final 2 pitches are a pile of choss that definitely provide an exciting finish although a lot easier than everything that came before it. Just be careful and for the love of god don\'t fall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A little unnerved by the fact there were only 5 logs of this before we did it but it was a fun day and pretty epic to slowly ascend the entire west face of the Australia col. We swung leads all the way up, took us over 6 hours total but probably could have been quicker if it wasn't our 4th day on. A good variety of pitches throughout that are a mix of classics, esoterica, bolts and dubious gear that accurately reflect the slate trad experience. The final 2 pitches are a pile of choss that definitely provide an exciting finish although a lot easier than everything that came before it. Just be careful and for the love of god don't fall.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 2
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Groove

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Llech Ddu (Black Slab))

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