AD+ 4C (This was accidentally climbed instead the Aiguille d'Entreves Traverse, we could not find any information about this route so any feedback on grading or info on this route is welcome)
A logical continuation from the Aiguille d'Entreves Traverse that carries on towards Aiguille de Toule. Exposed climbing on mainly good rock, well worth doing. 2-3 hours. Take an alpine rock rack with you and a 50m rope.
Approach: Continue down the snow ridge from the end of the Aiguille d'Entreves Traverse towards Aiguille du Toule, until the ridge starts continues again.
1. Climb up onto the ridge and climb the awkward thin crack to the right of some flakes (4c, easier if tall). Climb left up a corner and pull up and over the ridge crest onto some very exposed ground on the left of the crest
2. Traverse on the left of the ridge in a highly exposed position, passing some tat around a big block on the right, before starting to gradually down climb as the ridge descends on delicate moves.
3. After the exposed climbing you rejoin the ridge on the right hand side of large flakes/spikes.
4. Continue along the ridge crest finding lines of weakness until you reach a wall where you step up and then step across right onto a block. Pull left around a corner into a wide gap between a large flak. Continue climbing a short distance until you reach some ab tat.
5. Either down climb (4a) or abseil (15m) down the right hand side of the ridge and continue along broken ground until regaining the ridge crest again.
6. Follow the ridge crest over easy scrambling ground until you reach another block with tat. Abseil down the right hand side of the ridge (15m) onto broken loose ground.
7. Continue along the broken ground on the right side of the ridge heading towards Aiguille de Toule until you reach the col where you can down climb snow back onto the glacier.
Descent: After climbing down onto the glacier, follow the normal descent route for the Aiguille d'Entreves traverse.
A logical continuation from the Aiguille d'Entreves Traverse that carries on towards Aiguille de Toule. Exposed climbing on mainly good rock, well worth doing. 2-3 hours. Take an alpine rock rack with you and a 50m rope.
Approach: Continue down the snow ridge from the end of the Aiguille d'Entreves Traverse towards Aiguille du Toule, until the ridge starts continues again.
1. Climb up onto the ridge and climb the awkward thin crack to the right of some flakes (4c, easier if tall). Climb left up a corner and pull up and over the ridge crest onto some very exposed ground on the left of the crest
2. Traverse on the left of the ridge in a highly exposed position, passing some tat around a big block on the right, before starting to gradually down climb as the ridge descends on delicate moves.
3. After the exposed climbing you rejoin the ridge on the right hand side of large flakes/spikes.
4. Continue along the ridge crest finding lines of weakness until you reach a wall where you step up and then step across right onto a block. Pull left around a corner into a wide gap between a large flak. Continue climbing a short distance until you reach some ab tat.
5. Either down climb (4a) or abseil (15m) down the right hand side of the ridge and continue along broken ground until regaining the ridge crest again.
6. Follow the ridge crest over easy scrambling ground until you reach another block with tat. Abseil down the right hand side of the ridge (15m) onto broken loose ground.
7. Continue along the broken ground on the right side of the ridge heading towards Aiguille de Toule until you reach the col where you can down climb snow back onto the glacier.
Descent: After climbing down onto the glacier, follow the normal descent route for the Aiguille d'Entreves traverse.
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Route of Interest
Face Nord Centrale
Grade: AD+ ***
(Grande Casse)