This climb, named after an Italian dessert perhaps, goes up compact and steep slabs to the right of the Leni route. The crux is on the slabs right of pitch 4 on the Leni. It is mostly 5b-6a with a section of 6b. The literal British equivalent grade would be E2/3 5c. Reasonable protection and good stances. Friends 2 and 21/2 are suggested.
Access: As for Via Leni but start c20m to the right where a dièdre leads up to flakes. Red paint at start.
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. 5b 20m. Climb a short slab. Enter the dièdre and climb up it to the flakes to a ‘hourglass’ thread. Traverse right to a stance.
2. 6a 30m. Go a little left and climb up a short steep wall and then go rightwards to a slab. Climb the slab and then a second short steep wall to reach a large grassy ledge.
3. 6b 40m. Go slightly leftwards, then direct up to a quartz vein and follow it left to a large block. Go directly up via a knobbly slab which becomes smoother and smoother, to a niche stance.
4. 5c 45m. Get up to and climb up an overhanging flake on the right. Continue via small flakes and a crack until a chockstone. Go left to avoid it and enter a dièdre that brings you to a grassy saddle.
Descent: Abseil from the top belay, using the Via Leni stances at the top of pitches 3, 2 and 1, or go down the Plattenturm-SE Ridge gully as for Leni Links.
Franco Gallegioni, Franco Giacomelli and Renata Rossi, 25/Jul/1986