Ascends the Plattenturm right of Lasciami-li. It is apparently sustained and enjoyable. No topo. Excellent protection (take Friends 21/2–3) and good stances.
Access: Some 10m right of the start of Lasciami-li.
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. VI+ 50m. Climb up superficial cracks that go slightly rightwards and under an overhang. Get over the overhang on its right and find a stance a little way up.
2. VI 30m. Climb up a rib then go up left to a ledge under a noticeable arête.
3. VI+ 30m. Go over to the left under the arête and get onto a large slab furrowed with cracks.
4. VII 45m. Continue up the cracked slab to its top by a small plant (shrub?).
5. IV 35m. Climb a less cracked slab to reach a grassy ledge.
Descent: Possibly abseil or use the Plattenturm-SE Ridge gully.
Access: Some 10m right of the start of Lasciami-li.
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. VI+ 50m. Climb up superficial cracks that go slightly rightwards and under an overhang. Get over the overhang on its right and find a stance a little way up.
2. VI 30m. Climb up a rib then go up left to a ledge under a noticeable arête.
3. VI+ 30m. Go over to the left under the arête and get onto a large slab furrowed with cracks.
4. VII 45m. Continue up the cracked slab to its top by a small plant (shrub?).
5. IV 35m. Climb a less cracked slab to reach a grassy ledge.
Descent: Possibly abseil or use the Plattenturm-SE Ridge gully.
A. Alioscha, M. Folini and C. Lorenzo 1989.
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Route of Interest
Il Dente
Grade: 6b ***
(Spazzacaldera)