6 pitches. E2 5b (F 6a) An excellent climb with solid and steep rock, varied climbing with layback pitches and good protection. The crux is bold even though bolt-protected. At the top of the climb you can continue up to the top of the ridge using the Second PIllar and then the Nigg Variant or NE Ridge route. Via Felici is equipped with pegs and bolts but some medium–large Friends and nuts will be suited to the cracks on the climb.
Access: Go up to the lowest point of the north east ridge/central spur and find the start, by a ramp/slanting dièdre, indicated by red paint.
Description:
1. V+ 40m. Climb up the left-hand slab of the dièdre then go left beyond flakes and large quartz veins to take a stance in a niche at the bottom of a large flake.
2. V+ 45m. Climb the flake to its end. Then traverse left - thin - on a white vein to a vertical crack. Climb this and flakes to an overhang. Get above it by going right, up and back left. Climb a slab slightly right to a bolted stance under a steep wall.
3. VI 45m. Climb a thin flake to the right (VI) and come to a steep and knobbly cracked slab/wall which you get up to arrive at a large terrace where a tree used to be.
4. V+ 40m. Originally the route climbed a cracked dièdre 2m. left of the tree. The route now goes right of the tree. Find a dièdre right of the tree. Go up a crack on its left and after a few metres cross rightwards into the dièdre and climb to its top.
Descent: Abseil down the chimney to the left of Via Felici and then scramble down steep grass or carry on up via the Second Pillar and NE Ridge.

H. Furrer, R. Ruch, 2 Aug 1982. Pitches 5–6 F. Giacomelli, C. Pedroni, R. Rossi, D. Scan 11/Jun/1978

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 2 Sep 2nd
Tom Blake 8 Jul AltLd
khalidq 7 Jul AltLd O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 4 Sep, 2018 Lead again. great route
again. great route
daveclarke5 4 Sep, 2018 2nd
Guy Arnold 12 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S pitches 2 and 3 followed by second pillar
with Dave Adler
pitches 2 and 3 followed by second pillar
with Dave Adler
Hidden 12 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Alessandro Tentori 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Maurizio Ravera
with Maurizio Ravera
GarethSL 22 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Stunning climbing, probably one of the nicest routes I've climbed. Super grippy rock and bomber gear the whole way. Absolutely a must do route!
with Steffan, Einar
Stunning climbing, probably one of the nicest routes I've climbed. Super grippy rock and bomber gear the whole way. Absolutely a must do route!
with Steffan, Einar
Tommy_shaw 30 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
perrys 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Yossarian, Alex Neame
with Yossarian, Alex Neame
Yossarian 14 Aug, 2017 AltLd
andrzej kierzek 14 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Lead all pitches. The crux was top of second pitch rather than 6a pitch.
Lead all pitches. The crux was top of second pitch rather than 6a pitch.
Rory Shaw 23 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with jkfb, wi11
with jkfb, wi11
wi11 23 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Jo Boyd, Rory Shaw
with Jo Boyd, Rory Shaw
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
gjd 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Brian H
with Brian H
JoeFranklin 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
mattfarr 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd
olekemi 7 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Another excellent climb, better than Via Leni. Continued up NE ridge to the Fiamma. Spectacular mountain day.
with Mark G
Another excellent climb, better than Via Leni. Continued up NE ridge to the Fiamma. Spectacular mountain day.
with Mark G
Palmer 26 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S fantastic climb
fantastic climb
HimTiggins 26 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Chris
with Chris
Peter Metcalfe 8 Aug, 2015 Lead Just the first four pitches - guessing that the continuation is where the E2 5b grade comes from. Only HVS up to there.
Just the first four pitches - guessing that the continuation is where the E2 5b grade comes from. Only HVS up to there.
Hidden ?Aug, 2015 Lead
Nemmie 23 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 2015 Lead
with Alastair MacColl
with Alastair MacColl
yakov ?Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Led p 3, 4
Led p 3, 4
Jodgson 6 Aug, 2014 AltLd Honestly some of the best climbing I've ever encountered, perfect granite in a great setting.
Honestly some of the best climbing I've ever encountered, perfect granite in a great setting.
Sam Marks 6 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S great slab and crack climbing, some of the best granite ive climbed.
with Jack Hodgson
great slab and crack climbing, some of the best granite ive climbed.
with Jack Hodgson
Andrew Sandercock ?Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S P3,4,7. Outstanding climbing.
with Al Blackshaw
P3,4,7. Outstanding climbing.
with Al Blackshaw
Sankey 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd Lead most of 2nd pitch, the diedre pitch and top pitch
with Jeff and Jon
Lead most of 2nd pitch, the diedre pitch and top pitch
with Jeff and Jon
Hidden 24 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Kirill 18 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2, P4, P6.
Led P2, P4, P6.
CurlyStevo ?Aug, 2013 AltLd I did the odd pitches, a good route.
with Kirill
I did the odd pitches, a good route.
with Kirill
RonnydeWeerd 28 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Irene Wunnink
with Irene Wunnink
Hidden 19 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
sparbus 11 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with FedUp
with FedUp
ashtond6 18 Sep, 2012 Lead Not HVS more like E1!
Not HVS more like E1!
Ben1983 20 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 9 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S fantastic pitch three up the hollow flake, good lead from Rem, and a hard pitch two sketchy on the lead.
with remus
fantastic pitch three up the hollow flake, good lead from Rem, and a hard pitch two sketchy on the lead.
with remus
Hidden 5 Jul, 2012 AltLd
brockers 28 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Super route! Enjoyed the crux pitch immensely... HVS 5a???? What's that about? Pitch 2 and the crux pitch both felt harder thaan that.
Super route! Enjoyed the crux pitch immensely... HVS 5a???? What's that about? Pitch 2 and the crux pitch both felt harder thaan that.
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 9 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 3 Aug, 2011 AltLd rpt
chrisallan 3 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Ewano ?Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Phil Emerson ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 31 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
zach.stone 31 Jul, 2011 2nd fun to climb again
with Caspar McKeever
fun to climb again
with Caspar McKeever
libby.southgate 9 Jul, 2011 AltLd Led pitches 1 (F5b slab) and 3 (F6a layback) and Em did 2 (F5b Steep slab) and 4 (5b jamming crack/corner)
Led pitches 1 (F5b slab) and 3 (F6a layback) and Em did 2 (F5b Steep slab) and 4 (5b jamming crack/corner)
Hidden 9 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
tallthinmonkey 6 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Excellent climbing, harder than HVS, prob E1/2. It is worth to carry on with the ridge as the abseil down the chimney is not great and leaves you with a steep grass scramble above a drop.
with Rob Leuhman
Excellent climbing, harder than HVS, prob E1/2. It is worth to carry on with the ridge as the abseil down the chimney is not great and leaves you with a steep grass scramble above a drop.
with Rob Leuhman
GraMc 4 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with phil emerson
with phil emerson
Hidden 4 Jul, 2011 AltLd
jonnie3430 4 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Louise, Emily
with Louise, Emily
zach.stone 10 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 10 Aug, 2010 AltLd Led flake pitch, awesome climbing!
Led flake pitch, awesome climbing!
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC 25 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S This is a superb route - every pitch excellent and different from the last. Description above makes no sense at all and misses 3 more pitches including the crux. No idea where HVS grade comes from but it's nonsense.
with Lofty
This is a superb route - every pitch excellent and different from the last. Description above makes no sense at all and misses 3 more pitches including the crux. No idea where HVS grade comes from but it's nonsense.
with Lofty
basvdploeg ??, 2010 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
auld al ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S 1st three pitches only due to late start after getting "queued out" on another climb
1st three pitches only due to late start after getting "queued out" on another climb
Dirk Wallis 19 Aug, 2008 AltLd
Chris L Hill ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
sgl 2 Aug, 2007 -
with Konnie
with Konnie
Hidden 12 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 AltLd
tom.e ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Everett
with Charlie Everett
uphillnow ?Jul, 2002 AltLd
with Mark Gray
with Mark Gray
Marti999 ?Aug, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Andy Lancaster
with Andy Lancaster
Andy Say 14 Jul, 1994 Lead
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Voting
High VII-
Mid VII-
Low VII-
High VI+
Mid VI+
Low VI+
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
Votes cast 17
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set