UKC

Description
Toys in the attic follows a nice crack in a deep recess/chimney (capped by a roof) on the west side of The Christian Brothers formation. Start up easy (guano filled) crack on left side of chimney (5.6 at bottom). Going gradually steepens but the rock and crack quality steadily improve. Crack turns into an OW (#4-#4.5 Camalot useful) near the ceiling. At the ceiling, traverse DOWN and left following a finger crack (crux?) for about 20 feet to bolt anchor. Note that the route is scarier to follow than to lead.
Protection
Cams from about 1/2 inch to 5 inch (possibly doubles from 1/2-2 inch range). Few mid-sized nuts.

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Voting
High 5.10a
Mid 5.10a
Low 5.10a
High 5.9
Mid 5.9
Low 5.9
High 5.8
Mid 5.8
Low 5.8
Route of Interest
Peking

Grade: 5.9 ***
(Smith Rock)

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