UKC

Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

27m. A variation to Uhuru For Mandela which can be climbed when the lower part of the slab above the overhang (above the 2nd bolt) is wet. (Which it was when I went to do it.)
Follow Uhuru For Mandela to the 2nd bolt, then make a thin traverse right to the corner (good Friend #4). Pull onto the top slab and climb the easy corner to a sawn-off iron rod (sling on this and folded-over Rock 7 in the shot hole just below). Step down, traverse the slab back left to the arete and pull up to the gear cluster below the final slab on the original route. Finish up the original route.

Neil Harrison, Paul Harrison 27/Jul/2016.

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Route of Interest
Last Tango in Paris

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Vivian Quarry)

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