35m.
This route is on the North Wall of South Gully. Approached by scrambling up South Gully as if heading for Munich Climb, this steep looking wall gives delightful climbing on positive holds. The quality of the rock is excellent, whilst gear is more plentiful & better than appearances might suggest. Micro-wires & cams of all sizes will be useful.
Start just above the huge block/rib that lies in the middle of South Gully, at a super horizontal cam/hex slot, just to the right of a white streak on the slab. The climb follows a series of grooves heading for the crack right of the obvious off-width above (South Gully Wall).
P1 35m 5a Awkward & bold moves gain the slab & a good crack on the right. Follow a series of grooves to the finger crack, following this & a further series of grooves to emerge on the huge ledge. Belay on a stupendously large block.
Start just above the huge block/rib that lies in the middle of South Gully, at a super horizontal cam/hex slot, just to the right of a white streak on the slab. The climb follows a series of grooves heading for the crack right of the obvious off-width above (South Gully Wall).
P1 35m 5a Awkward & bold moves gain the slab & a good crack on the right. Follow a series of grooves to the finger crack, following this & a further series of grooves to emerge on the huge ledge. Belay on a stupendously large block.
Geoff Bennett & Derek Ryden 14/Jul/2018.
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Route of Interest
Scratch Arete
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))