Rockfax Description
Worthwhile, with some surprisingly good gear and moves.
Start on a large flat ledge beneath the big corner on the right of the crag.
Move up the left wall of the corner and step left over some vegetation to stand on a ledge and flake, good wires here. Make some pressing moves leftwards along the open groove past more good gear to a point where the groove fades and some good holds are encountered. Stand on the good holds and reach a broken flake up to the right and some handy small wires just to the left. Finish up right over slightly vegetated rock but on good holds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the corner for a couple of metres before stepping left to a good crack. Move up and follow an intermittent flake line up leftwards to good holds a few metres below the top. Now climb straight up, passing a large flake, and top out carefully.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.


ClimberDateStyle
catrin289 01/Jul Lead O/S

Felt a bit run out / dodgy gear

ewanthomson 24/Jun Lead rpt
with Ben Davies
Rock to Fakey 09/Jun Lead rpt

Sort of onsight then, as i didn't really get going 1st attempt. Got those moves this time with more confidence to reach the 2nd gear (placed stood on good ledge) + then ok climbing past to more good small gear but then started to feel felt quite run out, from there to big flake, (which one? from pic 2, end of grooove, could go up left a bit more then step up right a bit to 1 flake which looks like gear would go in but it rips out, or, more directly up above last good gear over "bulge" + more up over to right to another one, which would take a medium cam), wasted energy + time trying to get another runner before the moves up to the high left flake but found none, but had a good shake, and pushed through. Quite sustained. Loose at top. I don't think the line is right on the RF topo, for the top, it should bear right more.

with Fiend
Rock to Fakey 21/May Lead dnf

Only got slightly above steps off flake + above first gear, which although bomber, looks like a quite tasty and bold next move to a jug, bht i see then u also get a good foothold + chance to place next good gear. Just getting that move wrong means possibly hitting the flake. Went up + down 4 times but will come back on a better head day. I got a feeling that will be the crux? Looked at lower traverse stepping left off flake as phaps extra gear, but again quite tricky, better follow groove. Nice to see at least 1 person 4 yrs ago thinks e15b. Certainly harder than midas.

with Skip
Hidden 18/May 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/May Lead rpt
Denoir 31/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Mar Lead O/S
Rhys Deane 26/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Alfie Berry
ollie1 28/Sep/16 Lead
timreynolds 28/Sep/16 2nd
with stuartf
Chris Ebbutt 28/Sep/16 2nd
with ollie1
stuartf 28/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/16 2nd
JackM92 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Nick Nixon
JoeCoxson 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 09/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with joe c
petecallaghan 26/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Pete Belfield, Ellie Woods
EllieWoods 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S
stephen ashworth 30/Apr/16 2nd
with Alex cox
snook 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Great traverse moves and the section after needed a little thinking about. Great finish to the day

AEH 17/Apr/16 2nd dog
with Christian Mertes
Chris Ebbutt 06/Apr/16 2nd
stuartf 06/Apr/16 2nd O/S
timreynolds 06/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 28/Feb/16 Lead rpt
crater 28/Feb/16 2nd rpt

fell off first go, lowered off clean second ascent

with mike
Hidden 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 16/Jun/15 2nd

Backed off lead after trying to follow wrong line low down

with Dave Nicol
chris sm 09/May/15 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
Andy bowden 24/Dec/14 Lead
Macca_7 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Pleasant delicate climbing across the groove shame its so short!

with Stu Bradbury
Sean Kelly 22/Sep/14 2nd

Repeat ascent.

with Andy Bisson
tobydunford 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Sdentzel 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Fun climb, exciting.

with Spike
LDJ 08/Jun/14 Lead
with Alfie, Lou
Chris Ebbutt 07/May/14 Lead

One of my favourite Torbay quarry climbs, hard to believe it gets no stars.

with Alex, Chaman
Chaman 07/May/14 2nd rpt

Good lead by Chris

with Chris Ebbutt, Alex Hartley
Steve Woollard 03/May/14 TR
with Sean Kelly
Sean Kelly 03/May/14 TR

Spaced gear where you need it!

with Steve Woollard
guy xavier percival 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with paul
Paul Robertson 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Good climbing, quite committing. Good protection in the first half, but a bit run out for the second.

Hidden 08/Mar/14 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Mar/14 Lead dog
gg4419 22/Feb/14 2nd dog
nickstephens 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
Dan Heyse 06/Oct/13 TR dog

Very tricky climb, would love to go back and get a clean repeat

cai stafford 05/Oct/13 TR RP
riddle 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Charles Moreton
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
cem 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S

LIAISON

with Oli Sherman, Roger Hamilton-Smith
Paul_southgate68 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with henry
martin clarke 03/Aug/13 2nd
stephen ashworth 03/Aug/13 Lead
with martin clarke
Motown 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 30/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Lovely traverse, although the flake above does not sound very nice at all

with Will
Hidden 01/Jul/13 2nd dog
Rassapotimus 28/Jun/13 2nd O/S

lovely stuff!

mark schramm 01/May/13 2nd
with tim
timreynolds 01/May/13 Lead
Matt77 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Nearly chickened out of this one but glad I did it.

with Owen
Felix Ottey 17/Feb/13 -
Jack J Keogan 06/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Lottie T 06/Feb/13 2nd dog
chudders1 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Bry 17/Oct/12 2nd β
clipskipper 25/Aug/12 Lead
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 25/Aug/12 2nd O/S

A little vegetated to start but good above.

Thunderthighsontheloose 23/Jul/12 2nd
Mike_Hayes 17/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Dale Turrell 28/May/12 Lead O/S
with Dave
ewanthomson 02/May/12 Lead O/S

Awesome!

with Theolinde Gentil
pete3685 16/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/12 Lead
ferdia 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rozzy Pedder
burto 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
Tristan Sherlock 27/Feb/12 Lead O/S
El3ctroFuzz 27/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Possibly the Best route here? A Must do - 3 stars.

with Tristan Sherlock
misterb ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S

carefull route reading required and even then its a sand bag at hvs 5a.a good e1 5b with a superb traverse left.the finish a bit up and right after traverse is nicer and adds more climbing

with bob
jezb1 07/Jan/12 2nd

Very enjoyable, tricky for hvs? Loads of friction for your feet thankfully.

Ybot Htulk 06/Jan/12 Lead

Enjoyed this a lot

with Jez
Doug miller 27/Nov/11 Lead O/S
domskezz 23/Sep/11 Lead

Found this hard, the style of climbing on Flashdance suited me better.

with Jamma
jmjw 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Rob H, Tim R
timrowland 28/Aug/11 2nd
with Rob H, jmjw
M Bryan 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Luke90 19/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with M Bryan
Mr Tickle 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Great moves lower down and seem to miss the gear in the top half of the climb which made it a tad run out.

with davenev
davenev 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with luke
just one more 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with tony l
Hidden 09/Aug/11 2nd O/S
AlexD 22/May/11 Lead O/S
with Gideon
gidmord 21/May/11 2nd dog
with Alex
Hidden 04/May/11 TR rpt
Okecroak 03/May/11 Lead
Chris Ebbutt 03/May/11 2nd
with Dave R.
squicky 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Started too far right and ended up too far left. Whoops. Felt more like E1 5b as a result.

with rob1
feilx 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Matt Perks
Ed morris 24/Oct/10 Lead

Foot hold broke on the begining of the traverse, cheesegrater fall. Requires a lot of technique. Hard HVS.

with mike
JonHarvey 24/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Jay Jackson and Ant Smith
Hidden 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mark schramm 09/Aug/10 Lead
with steve P
Chris Ebbutt 26/May/10 Lead
DCIGadget 26/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/May/10 TR
Hidden 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
pedro.silva 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
nblackbeard 10/Oct/07 2nd
jw231 10/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Justin T 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Wifey
richardr ?/Aug/06 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
clark alston ?/Feb/92 Lead O/S
with Dick Hanson
3 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 36
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set