Rockfax Description
Worthwhile, with some surprisingly good gear and moves.
Start on a large flat ledge beneath the big corner on the right of the crag.
Move up the left wall of the corner and step left over some vegetation to stand on a ledge and flake, good wires here. Make some pressing moves leftwards along the open groove past more good gear to a point where the groove fades and some good holds are encountered. Stand on the good holds and reach a broken flake up to the right and some handy small wires just to the left. Finish up right over slightly vegetated rock but on good holds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the corner for a couple of metres before stepping left to a good crack. Move up and follow an intermittent flake line up leftwards to good holds a few metres below the top. Now climb straight up, passing a large flake, and top out carefully.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
joe.mw90 18 Sep Lead O/S
with Andy Bisson
with Andy Bisson
Steve Webster 23 Aug Lead dnf Could not convince myself to climb past that first solid wire!
Could not convince myself to climb past that first solid wire!
KernowCrag 10 Aug Lead O/S Found the moves 5a/5b at HVS
Found the moves 5a/5b at HVS
Hidden 27 May Lead O/S
climbdevon 23 May -
ClimbingAlex 17 Mar 2nd O/S
Matt Magecha 17 Mar Lead
Dexter JW 23 Feb 2nd O/S
with Jack
with Jack
Jim blackford 16 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Really good - with just enough resting places to make it hvs
Really good - with just enough resting places to make it hvs
Fakey Rocks 15 Sep, 2018 2nd rpt Step through the bulge line.
Step through the bulge line.
Spragg247 2 Sep, 2018 Lead G/U dont expect the gear to be as good as advertised in the guide! Felt high in grade
dont expect the gear to be as good as advertised in the guide! Felt high in grade
Brookey 27 Jun, 2018 2nd
Lee_Meaden 27 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Brookey
with Brookey
richgac 15 Jun, 2018 2nd
with Pete
with Pete
Gympaul 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Dale
with Dale
Hidden 9 May, 2018 Lead rpt
benstainfield 9 May, 2018 2nd
DredStripe 17 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
with Andy
with Andy
Steve Woollard 30 Oct, 2017 2nd
with Steve Thorpe
with Steve Thorpe
spragglerocks 13 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
with j_duds
with j_duds
Hidden 13 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S
crater 2 Oct, 2017 2nd rpt
with mike
with mike
Hidden 2 Oct, 2017 Lead rpt
Hidden 22 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
Lumbering Oaf 14 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S It does have better holds and gear than appears at first glance.
with tp45597
It does have better holds and gear than appears at first glance.
with tp45597
Hidden 14 Sep, 2017 2nd rpt
Fakey Rocks 26 Aug, 2017 Lead rpt Did the finish that goes over the bulge + over to flakey bit up + right this time, as in ukc photos 2 + 3 . Same difficulty + boldness ( as omitting this, going further left, + then up) maybe slightly less scary, but tbf, bomber rock 6 /7 just below u.
with RyanH
Did the finish that goes over the bulge + over to flakey bit up + right this time, as in ukc photos 2 + 3 . Same difficulty + boldness ( as omitting this, going further left, + then up) maybe slightly less scary, but tbf, bomber rock 6 /7 just below u.
with RyanH
RyanH 26 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
catrin289 1 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Felt a bit run out / dodgy gear
Felt a bit run out / dodgy gear
ewanthomson 24 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt
with Ben Davies
with Ben Davies
cwildblood 24 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
R0BJ0N 14 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Steve Price
with Steve Price
Fakey Rocks 9 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt Sort of onsight then, as i didn't really get going 1st attempt. Got those moves this time with more confidence to reach the 2nd gear (placed stood on good ledge) + then 2nd crux feels scary but reaches good hold + bomber med + small nut, followed groove a bit more + expected another nut by the grass/ pink flower, but nothing! so started to feel felt quite run out.. I continued leftwards, wasted energy + time trying to get another runner before the moves up to the high left flake but found none, but had a good shake, and pushed through. Quite sustained. Bit loose at top. I don't think the line is right on the RF topo, for the top, it should bear right more as shown in uploaded photo, bloke goes over bulge. Edit... either way is boldish easier climbing + a good buzz, but direct feels less scary. I would say 3 cruxes, 1 after 1st gear, 1 just b4 2nd photo, + lesser crux of going from photo 2 to 3, or crux 3 after going more left from pic 2 + then up variation.
with Fiend
Sort of onsight then, as i didn't really get going 1st attempt. Got those moves this time with more confidence to reach the 2nd gear (placed stood on good ledge) + then 2nd crux feels scary but reaches good hold + bomber med + small nut, followed groove a bit more + expected another nut by the grass/ pink flower, but nothing! so started to feel felt quite run out.. I continued leftwards, wasted energy + time trying to get another runner before the moves up to the high left flake but found none, but had a good shake, and pushed through. Quite sustained. Bit loose at top. I don't think the line is right on the RF topo, for the top, it should bear right more as shown in uploaded photo, bloke goes over bulge. Edit... either way is boldish easier climbing + a good buzz, but direct feels less scary. I would say 3 cruxes, 1 after 1st gear, 1 just b4 2nd photo, + lesser crux of going from photo 2 to 3, or crux 3 after going more left from pic 2 + then up variation.
with Fiend
Fakey Rocks 21 May, 2017 Lead dnf Only got slightly above steps off flake + above first gear, which although bomber, looks like a quite tasty and bold next move to a "jug", but i see that then u will get a good foothold + chance to place next good gear. Just getting that move wrong means possibly hitting the flake. Went up + down 4 times but will come back on a better head day. I got a feeling that will be the crux? Nice to see at least 1 person 4 yrs ago thinks e15b. Certainly harder than midas.
with Skip
Only got slightly above steps off flake + above first gear, which although bomber, looks like a quite tasty and bold next move to a "jug", but i see that then u will get a good foothold + chance to place next good gear. Just getting that move wrong means possibly hitting the flake. Went up + down 4 times but will come back on a better head day. I got a feeling that will be the crux? Nice to see at least 1 person 4 yrs ago thinks e15b. Certainly harder than midas.
with Skip
Hidden 18 May, 2017 2nd rpt
Hidden 18 May, 2017 Lead rpt
Denoir 31 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Rhys Deane 26 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
with Alfie Berry
with Alfie Berry
ollie1 28 Sep, 2016 Lead
timreynolds 28 Sep, 2016 2nd
with stuartf
with stuartf
Chris Ebbutt 28 Sep, 2016 2nd
with ollie1
with ollie1
stuartf 28 Sep, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 4 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Aug, 2016 2nd
JackM92 30 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Nick Nixon
with Nick Nixon
JoeCoxson 9 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 9 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 26 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
with Pete Belfield, EllieWoods
with Pete Belfield, EllieWoods
EllieWoods 26 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
stephen ashworth 30 Apr, 2016 2nd
with Alex cox
with Alex cox
snook 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Great traverse moves and the section after needed a little thinking about. Great finish to the day
Great traverse moves and the section after needed a little thinking about. Great finish to the day
AEH 17 Apr, 2016 2nd dog
with Christian Mertes
with Christian Mertes
Chris Ebbutt 6 Apr, 2016 2nd
stuartf 6 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
timreynolds 6 Apr, 2016 Lead
Hidden 28 Feb, 2016 Lead rpt
crater 28 Feb, 2016 2nd rpt fell off first go, lowered off clean second ascent
with mike
fell off first go, lowered off clean second ascent
with mike
Hidden 6 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 16 Jun, 2015 2nd Backed off lead after trying to follow wrong line low down
with Dave Nicol
Backed off lead after trying to follow wrong line low down
with Dave Nicol
chris sm 9 May, 2015 Lead
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Andy bowden 24 Dec, 2014 Lead
Hidden 2 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly 22 Sep, 2014 2nd Repeat ascent.
with Andy Bisson
Repeat ascent.
with Andy Bisson
tobydunford 13 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
with Kirsty Kerr
Sdentzel 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Fun climb, exciting.
with Spike
Fun climb, exciting.
with Spike
LDJ 8 Jun, 2014 Lead
with Alfie, Lou
with Alfie, Lou
Chris Ebbutt 7 May, 2014 Lead One of my favourite Torbay quarry climbs, hard to believe it gets no stars.
with Alex, Chaman
One of my favourite Torbay quarry climbs, hard to believe it gets no stars.
with Alex, Chaman
Chaman 7 May, 2014 2nd rpt Good lead by Chris
with Chris Ebbutt, Alex Hartley
Good lead by Chris
with Chris Ebbutt, Alex Hartley
Steve Woollard 3 May, 2014 TR
with Sean Kelly
with Sean Kelly
Sean Kelly 3 May, 2014 TR Spaced gear where you need it!
with Steve Woollard
Spaced gear where you need it!
with Steve Woollard
guy xavier percival 1 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
with paul
with paul
Paul Robertson 1 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 12 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Good climbing, quite committing. Good protection in the first half, but a bit run out for the second.
Good climbing, quite committing. Good protection in the first half, but a bit run out for the second.
Hidden 8 Mar, 2014 2nd dog
Hidden ?Mar, 2014 Lead dog
gg4419 22 Feb, 2014 2nd dog
nickstephens 22 Feb, 2014 Lead O/S
with gg4419
with gg4419
Nick Biven ??, 2014 -
Dan Heyse 6 Oct, 2013 TR dog Very tricky climb, would love to go back and get a clean repeat
Very tricky climb, would love to go back and get a clean repeat
cai stafford 5 Oct, 2013 TR RP
riddle 21 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S
with Charles Moreton
with Charles Moreton
Hidden 21 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
cem 21 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S LIAISON
with Oli Sherman, riddle
LIAISON
with Oli Sherman, riddle
Paul_southgate68 21 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S
with henry
with henry
martin clarke 3 Aug, 2013 2nd
with steve ashworth
with steve ashworth
stephen ashworth 3 Aug, 2013 Lead
with martin clarke
with martin clarke
Motown 30 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 30 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S Lovely traverse, although the flake above does not sound very nice at all
with Motown
Lovely traverse, although the flake above does not sound very nice at all
with Motown
Hidden 1 Jul, 2013 2nd dog
Rassapotimus 28 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S lovely stuff!
lovely stuff!
Hidden 1 May, 2013 2nd
timreynolds 1 May, 2013 Lead
Matt77 27 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Nearly chickened out of this one but glad I did it.
Nearly chickened out of this one but glad I did it.
Felix Ottey 17 Feb, 2013 -
Jack jk 6 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
Lottie T 6 Feb, 2013 2nd dog
with Jack jk
with Jack jk
Hidden 20 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
Bry 17 Oct, 2012 2nd β
clipskipper 25 Aug, 2012 Lead
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 25 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S A little vegetated to start but good above.
A little vegetated to start but good above.
Thunderthighsontheloose 23 Jul, 2012 2nd
Mike_Hayes 17 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Dale Turrell 28 May, 2012 Lead O/S
ewanthomson 2 May, 2012 Lead O/S Awesome!
with Theolinde Gentil
Awesome!
with Theolinde Gentil
pete3685 16 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Apr, 2012 Lead
ferdia 31 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with Rozzy Pedder
with Rozzy Pedder
burto 31 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with hertha
with hertha
Tristan Sherlock 27 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
bunn.aroundthebloc 27 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S Possibly the Best route here? A Must do - 3 stars.
with Tristan Sherlock
Possibly the Best route here? A Must do - 3 stars.
with Tristan Sherlock
Hidden ?Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
jezb1 7 Jan, 2012 2nd Very enjoyable, tricky for hvs? Loads of friction for your feet thankfully.
Very enjoyable, tricky for hvs? Loads of friction for your feet thankfully.
Ybot Htulk 6 Jan, 2012 Lead Enjoyed this a lot
with Jez
Enjoyed this a lot
with Jez
Doug miller 27 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
domskezz 23 Sep, 2011 Lead Found this hard, the style of climbing on Flashdance suited me better.
with Jamma
Found this hard, the style of climbing on Flashdance suited me better.
with Jamma
jmjw 28 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Rob H, Tim R
with Rob H, Tim R
timrowland 28 Aug, 2011 2nd
with Rob H, jmjw
with Rob H, jmjw
M Bryan 19 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Luke90
with Luke90
Luke90 19 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
with M Bryan
with M Bryan
Mr Tickle 13 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Great moves lower down and seem to miss the gear in the top half of the climb which made it a tad run out.
with davenev
Great moves lower down and seem to miss the gear in the top half of the climb which made it a tad run out.
with davenev
davenev 13 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
just one more 9 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with tony l
with tony l
hutster781 9 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
with steve barnard
with steve barnard
AlexD 22 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with gidmord
with gidmord
gidmord 21 May, 2011 2nd dog
with Alex
with Alex
Hidden 4 May, 2011 TR rpt
Okecroak 3 May, 2011 Lead
Chris Ebbutt 3 May, 2011 2nd
squicky 22 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Started too far right and ended up too far left. Whoops. Felt more like E1 5b as a result.
with rob1
Started too far right and ended up too far left. Whoops. Felt more like E1 5b as a result.
with rob1
rob1 22 Apr, 2011 2nd
with squicky
with squicky
feilx 22 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
with Matt Perks
with Matt Perks
Ed morris 24 Oct, 2010 Lead Foot hold broke on the begining of the traverse, cheesegrater fall. Requires a lot of technique. Hard HVS.
with mike
Foot hold broke on the begining of the traverse, cheesegrater fall. Requires a lot of technique. Hard HVS.
with mike
JonHarvey 24 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
with Jay Jackson and Ant Smith
with Jay Jackson and Ant Smith
Hidden 24 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Aug, 2010 Lead
Chris Ebbutt 26 May, 2010 Lead
DCIGadget 26 May, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 15 May, 2010 TR
Hidden 5 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
pedro.silva 5 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 -
nblackbeard 10 Oct, 2007 2nd
with jw231
with jw231
jw231 10 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
Justin T 26 May, 2007 Lead O/S
with TeaGirl
with TeaGirl
richardr ?Aug, 2006 -
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
Hidden ?Feb, 1992 Lead O/S
6 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 41
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set