Restricted Access
A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the following routes:
Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).
Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:
- Tell Your God To Ready For Blood
- Chosstokovitch
- Error Of Judgement
Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.
Start as for Rust Never Sleeps and climb it to a resting position in the base of the groove. Step up, clip the peg then boldly break out left onto the steep left arête. Climb straight up for 10m passing a pair of short stacked blade pegs and a crucial DMM blue offset to a shakeout at a crumbly break below the golden headwall. (Good medium cams). Climb diagonally right on fragile crimps to the arête and continue up this to good small cams beneath the final steep wall. Sprint up this to the top.
First ascent: Mick Lovatt & Nick Bullock 4th September 2018
Mick Lovatt & Nick Bullock 04/Sep/2018.
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Logged Ascents
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Night Stalker
Grade: E8 6c ***
(Craig Doris)