UKC

Access Banned

Currently banned - the landowner has advised the BMC that they do not allow access for climbing at this crag, and have not at any point in the past.

15m. The wall to the right of 'Hitting the Dreams'
Start up the bulging crack to the first break. Use an undercut and side pull to gain good holds and the second break. A long reach to two more good holds and a small crimp leave a longer reach/dyno to a good finishing jug and the anchors.
(Using the flake on Bamm-Bamm is cheating)
Bolt hangers have been removed by first ascensionist.

FA. Jeff Mearns and Ruth Charlton.

Feedback

User Date Notes
GaynorPaton 28 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: When you get to the crux at the top, keep both hands on the left undercut. Part of the undercut out right broke off when I tried to use it.
Show beta
βeta: When you get to the crux at the top, keep both hands on the left undercut. Part of the undercut out right broke off when I tried to use it.

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Guidebooks for Stanhope Dean

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Whine

Grade: 6c ***
(Hownsgill Quarry)

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