Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
A reach-dependent move divides opinion on the difficulty of this good climb. Climb the short wall as for Jacqui Big Tits and then take the right-hand line of bolts to where a good hold has to be used to maximum effect to reach a flat edge. Pull up right and then at the overhang above go left before moving over it and up the headwall to a lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
RH bolted line up orange streak in the east wall of Woodcroft Quarry. 9 bolts + 2 bolt lower-off.
Becky's ticklist , Wintour's leap
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ethanr2000 | 26 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: I'm 5'9. Can skip the big Dyno move by gastoning super wide to the right, left foot up to the higher foot hold and then standing up to go left hand to the ledge. Much more consistent but just as fun! | ||
Show beta
βeta: I'm 5'9. Can skip the big Dyno move by gastoning super wide to the right, left foot up to the higher foot hold and then standing up to go left hand to the ledge. Much more consistent but just as fun! |
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Tituscrags | Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: found the crux easy and the overhang further up more difficult | ||
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βeta: found the crux easy and the overhang further up more difficult |
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MollyMac123 | 13 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Tito lies he went left of the bolt on the overhang lay back and high feet | ||
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βeta: Tito lies he went left of the bolt on the overhang lay back and high feet |
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Tito Santana | 13 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Take it slow and keep looking for the high feet. Right of the bolt on the overhang is easier | ||
Show beta
βeta: Take it slow and keep looking for the high feet. Right of the bolt on the overhang is easier |
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siofras | 18 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Crux move is hard to stick if you\'re 165cm | ||
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βeta: Crux move is hard to stick if you're 165cm |
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LuciaS | 12 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Tried the long reach about 25 times, got it only on my first and last go. Definitely will go again to get it clean. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Tried the long reach about 25 times, got it only on my first and last go. Definitely will go again to get it clean. |
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hutster781 | 9 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: The mid height rest after the crux takes the sting out of this climb- Mid 6c for me | ||
Show beta
βeta: The mid height rest after the crux takes the sting out of this climb- Mid 6c for me |
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b3nk3 | 6 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Found some loose/hollow rock above the ledge that could potentially come loose if pulled on. Could easily be worked around and does not affect grade. in my opinion. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Found some loose/hollow rock above the ledge that could potentially come loose if pulled on. Could easily be worked around and does not affect grade. in my opinion. |
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