UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

40m. Not recommended.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Trace 7 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Not a planned route out. Not recommended whatsoever. First pitch straight forward - pleasant even. Second pitch the scariest thing I’ve ever lead. Direct line from the belay is maybe less loose - I traversed out right towards the VS but gear is very poor, loose rock coming off. Traversed back in after some of the steepness and was thoroughly scared topping out. Shocking posts to tie on to also.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not a planned route out. Not recommended whatsoever. First pitch straight forward - pleasant even. Second pitch the scariest thing I’ve ever lead. Direct line from the belay is maybe less loose - I traversed out right towards the VS but gear is very poor, loose rock coming off. Traversed back in after some of the steepness and was thoroughly scared topping out. Shocking posts to tie on to also.

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Route of Interest
Behemoth

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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