Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A good sustained line with a fine finish up the grey headwall.
1) 5b, 18m. Pull over the low roof using a good hold, then move up rightwards past a crack in a bulge to an easing below another crack. Take the excellent hand-crack to a belay at the faultline.
2) 6a, 20m. Move up to a ledge on the right. Head left until it is possible to move up onto the headwall (2m right of the line of RIP). Move right and then up the headwall to easier ground © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| waddy | 27 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: To clarify some points about the line. Headstone and wide awake in america climb the headwall in the same place though WAIA is more direct having about 10-15ft of independant climbing. The pegs were placed after the FA of Headstone. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: To clarify some points about the line. Headstone and wide awake in america climb the headwall in the same place though WAIA is more direct having about 10-15ft of independant climbing. The pegs were placed after the FA of Headstone. |
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| waddy | 10 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: In answer to Ed. WAIA actually was always a short steep direct version of the top pitch of headstone. It's top pitch was done a bit later than its first, with pegs that were not on the FA of headstone. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: In answer to Ed. WAIA actually was always a short steep direct version of the top pitch of headstone. It's top pitch was done a bit later than its first, with pegs that were not on the FA of headstone. |
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Logged Ascents
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Facedancin'
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)