UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies east of Scotsman Chimney to the start of Traverse of the Gods.

30m. If in condition excellent and atmospheric climbing.
Start from flat boulder in zawn. Step off in to the base of crack that shoot straight up the wall left of the groove of Io. Climb with ample gear to small roof spit by crack, continue on good holds( but may be covered in bird crap, clean on way down would enhance the route). More good hold on steep ground bring to main roof, corner, slab junction. With aid of corner move up slab carefull with gear. Some loose ground needs care before finishing up calcite groove (good threads) to ledge.
Would be 3 star route if not for loose and shitty mid section.

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Route of Interest
Finale Groove

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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