UKC

SMC Description
100m. A pleasant early season route which becomes easier with more build-up. Start near the left edge of the buttress, at a fault below and just left of a big left-facing corner which starts 20m up. Climb the fault to a bulge with a crack, move right and back left until above the bulge, then up the crack leading to the corner. Climb the corner to easy ground on the terrace, then go up right. Climb a short chimney, then an overhang of big blocks before finishing rightwards. © SMC

UKC Logbook Description
A nice introduction into the Mess of Pottage style climbing. Technical, and a little thin for gear at the grade for the first pitch. Enjoyable throughout, however escape is an option into the gully on the left from several places after the pitch one.


ClimberDateStyle
Jack.H.92 18/Feb AltLd
Matt Cooke 18/Feb AltLd O/S
John McKenna 11/Feb AltLd O/S

A pretty shit line. No moves higher than 4

Martin McKenna - UKC 11/Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Feb AltLd O/S
George.D 25/Jan 2nd
Hidden 21/Jan AltLd rpt
nvalentine760 21/Jan AltLd O/S
thompsettjack 21/Jan AltLd O/S
with jake
Kayan 21/Jan AltLd
stevelismore 20/Jan AltLd O/S

I led first pitch-very delicate traverse across rocky ledge with thin dusting of snow, no axe placements and little gear. When I did finally find a bit of frozen turf the warthog got hammered in very tight. Then followed with leading second pitch up dihedral covered in verglas. Delicate climbing but reasonable gear for this. John led final pitch up snowy bank. Great climb-well pleased.

dwc 20/Jan AltLd O/S

Led the upper section above the harder start. Ran out of rope in a disappointing place with the top in sight. Good job from Steve and his warthog on the initial sketchy traverse.

Hidden 10/Jan Lead
guy127917 03/Jan AltLd
OliverRoss 01/Jan AltLd O/S

Lead until end of corner then Alkis lead the top pitch. Powder low down meant the mental crux was stepping across to enter the corner. More consolidated snow and frozen turf from the top of the corner pitch.

with Alkis
Alkis 01/Jan AltLd O/S

Ollie led P1 and P2, I led P3.

Rhys Deane ?/Jan AltLd
Hidden 14/Dec/17 Lead O/S
mrbird 13/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Gawyllie 13/Dec/17 AltLd
with mrbird
kipman725 10/Dec/17 -

The direct start was too lean and so had to do the traverse in start.

Hidden ?/Dec/17 Lead
Andy Clark 26/Nov/17 AltLd
Hidden 26/Nov/17 AltLd
Hidden 25/Nov/17 AltLd
alexm198 25/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

First pitch was quite entertaining, the rest of the route felt a little contrived since it was so escapable. On the soft side for IV 5. P1,3.

with Alex Slipchuk
RClothier 11/Nov/17 AltLd rpt
with Gordon Lacey
Gordon Lacey 11/Nov/17 AltLd
with Robin
pingora 17/Mar/17 2nd rpt
Jamie Skelton 03/Mar/17 AltLd O/S
with Jacob Phillips
Hidden 06/Feb/17 Lead rpt
chapmand 05/Jan/17 Lead O/S
Appleby 19/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
with malone
malone 19/Nov/16 AltLd
with Appleby
Al_Mac 18/Nov/16 Lead

First route of the season with Siobhann. Not much rime but the ledges were white and the rock well verglassed. Start was awesome techy slab into the groove, with the upper twin grooves superb with more torques bomber hooks to pull on. High feet with some grovelling/thrutching were needed to work your feet up.

Siobhann 18/Nov/16 -
with Al_Mac
Marek Raganowicz 27/Mar/16 Lead
with Magda
mathesar 09/Mar/16 2nd O/S

Swifty

djdavies 09/Mar/16 2nd
Hidden 08/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Tarquin 07/Mar/16 -
Louvet 05/Mar/16 -
with Tarquin
Tarquin 05/Mar/16 -
with Louvet
akhughes 01/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Work

mikecollins 27/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Ste Ridd 27/Feb/16 AltLd
manmike 27/Feb/16 Lead
Hidden 27/Feb/16 2nd
annep 24/Feb/16 AltLd
JoeMortimer 24/Feb/16 AltLd
with annep
Hidden 23/Feb/16 2nd O/S
Rhys Macallister 22/Feb/16 AltLd

not a route of great interest. we did this as an alternative to queing for the 'honey pot' with the 1st pitch of the honey pot which was well protected and enjoyable with a tricky start

with jack doyle
Hidden 22/Feb/16 2nd
Hidden 22/Feb/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/16 AltLd
Hidden 22/Feb/16 2nd O/S
guernseydan 21/Feb/16 2nd O/S

The full scottish winter experience! Gusts of 75mph, poor vis and spindrift everywhere.

waydan 08/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climb

Chrismith 06/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

First 10m was balls, ledge shuffling with a rucksack on and poor hooks/gear(or I just never found them!). After this it was alot nicer, some decent ice and neve. Turf frozen solid. Pretty blowy today with snow and spindrift all over the place.

guitarshane 06/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/16 2nd O/S
LucaC 03/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/16 2nd O/S
theocelano 03/Feb/16 2nd
with LucaC
joe.91 31/Jan/16 Lead O/S

The only thing in condition the rest of the buttress was black, yet people were still tooling about...

with Rachel Slater
Rachel Slater 31/Jan/16 2nd O/S

Icy ledge-shuffling.

with joe.91
luckyjim 31/Jan/16 AltLd
with D Helm
MC 16/Jan/16 -

Lots of fresh snow everywhere, Grade IV 5 ? more like the original III.4

with Phil Whitfield
andybroadway 10/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3. Iced up cracks meant very little gear on P1. Loads on fresh snow on P2 and P3 made progress hard going.

with Heike
Mine2209 ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 -
tradisrad ??/2016 2nd O/S
Richard Abel 13/Dec/15 AltLd
Hugh Simons 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

In 2 pitches. Led 2nd, which has one short IV section at the top, otherwise a I. First pitch was sketchy to start, then improves.

Hidden 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
calumhicks 13/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

One of the worst climbs I've ever had the pleasure of climbing.

with Adz
BrianShackleton 28/Nov/15 AltLd

Climbed in 2 pitches plus short easy pitch to top

RClothier 28/Nov/15 AltLd
Steve Perry 21/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3. P1 is quite technical for the grade but good and I managed to find some good gear a bomber hex for the lower thin section. The P2 corner is fun and the steep start to P3 on bomber hooks was too. Enjoyable even though it was verglassed.

Nathan Adam 29/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch one which is quite balancy and doesn't have a lot of gear until the corner. Second pitch had a difficult finish, we may have gone wrong though!

JackM92 29/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Interesting moves through some steep blobs of frozen turf, but overall not a very good line.

morsy 04/Mar/15 AltLd
with peter berwick
Pete23 04/Mar/15 AltLd
with Stephen Mors
Hidden ?/Mar/15 Lead
1202alarm 25/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Technical first pitch without much gear after that fairly boring...

with Jamie Evans
Pina 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch. Great conditions though slighty banked out in places

with Greg
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Hidden 13/Dec/14 2nd
Adamski1986 13/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Verry lean on first pitch.

with kerry
Debbie Lee 07/Dec/14 AltLd
with MrRiley
MrRiley 07/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

A good consolation route which although lean was quite icy up the corner. Some tenuous moves on the first section. Steeper routes were black.

Hidden 05/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
jimmatthews 05/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/14 2nd O/S
jamieevans ?/Feb/14 AltLd
mzchambers 13/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Lots of snow well banked out. Ewan lead first picth

with Ewan
Hidden 13/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Tim Rodgers 12/Jan/14 AltLd
with Chris Down
Alex Thomson 11/Jan/14 AltLd rpt
with jenpen
Hidden 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Mike-W-99 04/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

In 2 pitches, lead p2. Route buried, gear hard to excavate.

Murilo Lessa 04/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch. It had a short step bit with poor ice which was interesting. Second bit is a nice move through the narrow rock gap.

with William Watson
w-watson 04/Jan/14 AltLd
Fiona Reid 04/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Done in 2 pitches. Led first pitch using almost the full 60m. Went slightly left at the initial bulge. Gear hard to find as much of route is buried.

olekemi 04/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with James C
saffy ?/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Dec/13 AltLd
leo-z-g 22/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch taking the left steeper crack at the top as it looked more fun. And was :)

with Webster
Webster 22/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

remarkably good conditions today. lead up to the top of the big corner (pitches 1 and 2 as 1 pitch). really delicate and bold 1st pitch which was a surprise given the grade suggests well protected. pitch 2 was banked out with solid neve so really easy. hard to give a grade, maybe V 4 first pitch, II second and III 5 3rd?

Hidden 07/Dec/13 AltLd
peter.herd 07/Dec/13 AltLd

one of the better routes in the coire - first pitch is great

with Rory Brown
Hidden 23/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
michael83 23/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

1st pitch. an unexpectedly delicate start!

with Mark020
abbeywall 10/Nov/13 AltLd rpt

4th time. First time leading p1 proper

with K
Wojttek 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Danii
Gibson27 ?/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Short but fun.

Hidden 26/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
AndyDWilson 13/Jan/13 2nd
rufus.duits 18/Dec/12 Solo
Badam 08/Dec/12 2nd O/S

A big thaw was on, the climb was melting around us, had to detour round to the left of P1 and traverse back onto the line at the start of P2, nice move through a corner made harder with no ice , P3 just a walk off

with Paul, Wilf
ecromwell 02/Dec/12 2nd
with Caspar
Hidden 02/Dec/12 Lead O/S
murray ?/Dec/12 Lead O/S
joeydurkin 04/Nov/12 AltLd
with Jockey
Yourlead 01/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

Very lean with alot of verglas and "some" ice in the corner of the 1st pitch. Where there was turf it was solid.

with Graham Penny
Jamie B 27/Oct/12 AltLd
with Andy Nisbet
Peter Holder 05/Feb/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
Pat-H 20/Dec/11 AltLd
with don
Hidden 20/Dec/11 AltLd
abbeywall 17/Dec/11 AltLd

led 1 and 3 after backing off the IV start which had a lot of unconsolidated powder

with K
Hidden ?/Dec/11 2nd β
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
abbeywall 20/Nov/10 AltLd

lots of soft unconsolidated snow so time consuming. Led 3rd pitch

with borderline, FM
Hidden 20/Nov/10 AltLd
graeme gatherer ?/Nov/10 -
pmurdy 07/Mar/10 AltLd
whispering nic 15/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Ali Cashman
Alpandy 14/Feb/10 2nd
with Chris
Colin Mcgregor 06/Feb/10 AltLd

First pitch well banked out. Probably grade III on the day. Horrible cornice though!

Hidden 06/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
MouseHunter ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Solo
Greg Boswell 07/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
Alco-nomic ?/Nov/09 AltLd

hard start in lean conditions

with Andy Wardle
Hidden 24/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Dougie Harvey 24/Jan/09 2nd O/S

Finished up the top pitch of Honey Pot

BallsOfSteel 14/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
with plummet
Hidden 23/Nov/08 AltLd
Peter Rhodes 01/Nov/08 2nd β

Lots of soft snow!

with Justin Nixon
Alco-nomic ??/2008 AltLd
Smelly Fox 09/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
with Kev Neal
Captain Solo 08/Mar/07 Solo

Late season so banked out, grade III

Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
John Pickles ?/Dec/05 AltLd O/S
with 8848
Hidden ?/Dec/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/05 AltLd
Jim Haydock 11/Mar/05 2nd
with Graeme Ettle & John Bracey
francois ??/2005 AltLd
with Philip
Hidden 18/Feb/03 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/02 2nd O/S
DerwentDiluted ?/Jan/02 AltLd
Ally Smith ??/2002 AltLd

Date a guess; sometime between 2002 & 2006

with Piers
abbeywall ?/Jan/01 AltLd
with K
Hidden ?/Feb/00 AltLd
smithaldo ?/Feb/98 AltLd O/S

Also a III that felt hard when we did it.

with tom matthew
Hidden ?/Dec/96 AltLd
pingora 02/Feb/96 Lead
with Steve Long
Hidden 09/Feb/95 AltLd O/S
rockaddiction ?/Feb/94 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 12/Dec/93 AltLd
with Gordon S
pingora 09/Dec/93 AltLd
with Blaggers
pingora 27/Feb/93 AltLd O/S
with Nick
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 25
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set