Rockfax Description
II, 215m. Although the crux can be circumnavigated by a quick pull on the fixed rope, there is still plenty of challenging climbing up this stunning line. The route can be identified by a rusty sign at the foot of the first pitch.
1) 6a+, 45m. A sustained and technical wall.
2) 6b, 40m. More of the same, just harder and steeper!
3) 6b+, 30m. Climb the left-facing corner before stepping right onto the wall. The toughest moves are saved until the end.
4) 6c or 6a/A0, 50m. Traverse to the left to reach a corner (6c or a fixed rope for 4m - check rope for wear). Continue up the wall on good holds.
5) 5c, 50m. An easier pitch, following the ridge. There can be lichen on this pitch so don't drop your guard! Be aware of potential loose blocks. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Lovely five pitch climb at Brevent left of the Frison Roche. Bolted all the way, and with solid double-bolted belays. A little run-out and some loose rock, but excellent and very sustained climbing. 250m: 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 5c.

Ticklists: Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+).

jakeepictv 04/Sep/17 -
Ulgrid 22/Aug/17 AltLd
with Dave
Adamski1986 14/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Nicky Brierly
seanhendo123 14/Aug/17 Lead rpt
08nbrierley 14/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Lead crux pitch free. Lovely route

Hidden 09/Aug/17 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Davidmcneill125 05/Aug/17 2nd O/S
hetty.key 30/Jul/17 2nd dnf

Ran away from a massive thunder storm!

Maz J 26/Jul/17 AltLd

Lead pitch 1 and 5.

with Simon Jones
Hidden 23/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Lakesben 22/Jul/17 Lead
with Wojciech
Hidden 19/Jul/17 AltLd
seanhendo123 19/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Amazing sustained climbing with only the fifth pitch being easier.....lead p's2&4 freeing the crux 6c(+?) step, great day

with Tim
ConorWalter 16/Jul/17 AltLd

First Multi-pitch of the Summer. Unreal last pitch! Topped out to sunset !

with Culann
Culann ??/2017 Lead
Paul Collins ??/2017 AltLd
Tim Rodgers 31/Aug/16 AltLd dnf

P1 + 2 then rain

Chuck 28/Aug/16 AltLd

Cedric led all the hard pitches. Bit of drizzle/snow

with Cedric Undritz
jezb1 26/Aug/16 AltLd
MSchobitz 21/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led crux free. Once again a great route on the Brevent!

with Robert W.
Hidden 21/Aug/16 AltLd dnf
Aminious 19/Aug/16 AltLd dog
with Jonny livesey
metrorat 19/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1,3,& 4. Freed the '6c+' section with the fixed rope getting in the way. Probably 6b+. Amy took a right whipper leading pitch 2. Pitches are long and very sustained. The rock is of a completely different character to to Frison Roche round the corner which we also did today. Spectacular day out :)

with Amy Wight
w-watson 11/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
davkeo 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

5 pitches. Traverse went free and didn't feel 6c+. Some tricky moves throughout on small feet/hands. Rock also hard to read but very enjoyable climbing all the same.

with Rowan Kavanagh
stanleynkk 02/Aug/16 2nd
Richard Kendrick 02/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Nemmie ?/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
james n 22/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Benjaminblanc 22/Jul/16 AltLd
with James Norris
spragglerocks 21/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led p2. Only did first two pitches, too hot and not enough time before the last lift due to a late start.

with John
Hidden 21/Jul/16 AltLd
kdo 07/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Careful which guidebook you use. One has harder grades which is more accurate. No mention of 6b after the rope traverse in one guide. A great but sustained rock route.

niallsash 07/Jul/16 AltLd
with kdo
bencoope 24/Jun/16 -
harry_lewis 24/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Ben Coope, Matt Harmon
Matt Harmon 24/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

led top pitch, good sustained climbing all the way

walts4 ??/2016 -
DigitalSteak 06/Nov/15 AltLd
Hidden 20/Sep/15 AltLd
Fraser hill-casey 01/Sep/15 AltLd dnf

Had to back off as my partner was not having a good day.

MrRiley 29/Aug/15 AltLd dnf

Utterly desperate in the heat but definitely bit off more than we could chew with this one!

with Debbie Lee, Mark Reid
Debbie Lee 29/Aug/15 AltLd dnf

Bailed at the bulge on pitch 3. Until then the climbing just gets harder! Scorching weather didn't help but the route proved too much for the first one of our trip!

with Mark Reid, Dave Riley
QuentinSu 28/Aug/15 Lead β
steve_gibbs 13/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
zcsharp 13/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/15 AltLd
catrin289 07/Aug/15 2nd
Liam Ingram 07/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Used fixed rope (which is knackered). P3 easily 6b+.

Roberttaylor 07/Aug/15 AltLd

Yarded on the fixed rope

Hidden 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Palindrome 06/Aug/15 2nd

Used aid gear at crux.

Stoney Boy 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Good day out in the mist.

with Uli
Hidden 23/Jul/15 2nd
dan-8990 14/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with PF
Hidden 10/Jul/15 AltLd dog
buzby78 09/Jul/15 AltLd
with Jess
LardClimber 28/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Nic Dynes
Hidden 02/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 30/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
simondunf 30/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

lovely long pitches, stunning route

with caspar
James W 15/Aug/14 2nd
with Mark Thomas
prcleary ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Yuki
Hidden 31/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jul/14 AltLd dog
jimmatthews 19/Jul/14 AltLd O/S


Hidden 19/Jul/14 AltLd
stanleynkk ?/Jul/14 AltLd

The crux pitch is a bit harder than the suggested grade

with Micheal Haywood
McGuinness 26/Jun/14 -
with Steve
Pete Houghton 24/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
John Carney 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Peter Vaas
Hidden 30/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
DaveMo 30/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Will Tarran, Jan
tuukka 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S

All free, 6b might be closer to the truth than the 6c+ in the Piola guide.

with Maija
mux 17/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Great Route

with frost
frost 17/Aug/13 AltLd
with D Garry
mcgovern ?/Aug/13 AltLd
TommyMcG ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 30/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Brillant route.

r_o_b_h2 17/Jul/13 AltLd

Great route and great rock, watch out for rockfall coming from muppets at the top and dont climb with a heavy bag!

with Nik Goile
Hidden 17/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/13 AltLd
Chris Sansum 21/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Really nice route, worth spending the previous day walking up to (equivalent height gain to climbing Ben Nevis!) and biviing (the lifts were closed at this time of year)!

Hidden 09/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Danjones 27/Jul/12 AltLd dog

Rested on first pitch, steep exposed climbing. Led last pitch.

with dan ely, Steve Keys
dan ely 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with steve, danjonesukc
Ben Briggs 25/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Khrisna
Hidden 24/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Coops_13 17/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
thetradlad 17/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 03/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

2, 4 all free. 6c seemed generous for the start of pitch four.

Rockley 03/Jul/12 AltLd
hilty ?/Jul/12 -
Hidden ?/Jul/12 -
Tom Campbell ?/Jul/12 -
conorjclarke 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

led the even pitches -- the 'magnificent slab' and the weird aid/tyrolean pitch. the magnificent slab is truly magnificent and the rope drag is killer on the aid pitch. ran out of draws, got hit by a rock -- a great adventure all things considered. we thought this climb to be much better than frison-roche.

with Neal Gupta
Hidden ?/Jun/12 -
Hidden 16/Sep/11 Lead dnf
jonnie3430 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Rained after the first pitch, did the aid section free, which is about 6b, not 6c and the rope gets properly tangled in your legs. Over equipped in my opinion, the rope should not be there.

with Joe
Hidden 02/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/11 2nd
Jack Loftus 10/Jul/11 AltLd
with Nick
Hidden 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Kris ??/2011 AltLd
Lunar25 06/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/10 Lead
liz j 05/Sep/10 -
with Souljah, Matt Dickinson
Souljah 05/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Climbed free without the aid. A superb route

with Matt dickinson and Liz
Hidden 06/Aug/10 2nd dnf
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
Dave Rumney 10/Jul/10 AltLd
with Tanya Milner
AnnaBacklund ?/Jul/10 2nd
Brian Birtle 18/Aug/06 2nd dog
with Yoshi and Swedish Tomas
heidimountaingirl ?/Aug/06 -

great and beautiful climb- loose rock though, top pitch was easiest and very climbing wall feeling- many holds but some are more useful than others, allowing for your own personal style. fun and airy tyrolean style short rope section through corner- hardest section just passing through roof but there is a bolt if you want to french free -very very pretty but be aware of the loose rock.

with Kenton Cool and Guy Willett
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd
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High ED1
Mid ED1
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High TD+
Mid TD+
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High TD
Mid TD
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Votes cast 15
High 6c+
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Low 6c+
High 6c
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High 6b+
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Votes cast 3
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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