48m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Great rock, exhilarating moves and breath-taking exposure. Gain the right-hand end of the large terrace halfway up North Gully either by a scramble or by North Buttress. Belay just right of a large block.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb up right and go round the arete on the right. Climb a slab to a small ledge then follow the slab above. Continue up the curving groove to a large ledge.
2) 4b, 40m. Head right onto the nose and enjoy the air beneath your feet. Climb straight up to easier ground leading to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, CUMC First Ascents, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

LukeWS 27/Aug Lead O/S

The first pitch is awesome, feel like the exposure and moves should make it a 3* rather than a 2* route.

with Tom WS
mattgrange 26/Aug AltLd

Pretty good moves and adequate gear almost making up for excessive midges and the arduous walk-in.

Johnathan 09/Aug 2nd
m.powell02 29/Jul AltLd O/S

Lead P1. Some nice moves through the slab.

Kev Webster 29/Jul AltLd
with Gaz Mitchell
Hidden 29/Jul AltLd
Laurence Mitchell 29/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul Lead O/S
Ben Seeley 29/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul Lead O/S
rd20 24/Jul AltLd O/S


with Jing
jing 24/Jul AltLd O/S

First part of our Tryfan+Glyder Fach enchainment. I led P1, Robert P2. Very good climb.

Mark Reeves 12/Jul Lead rpt


JackSewell1997 08/Jul Lead O/S
with Berty
Hidden 18/Jun AltLd O/S
Lawcallum 17/Jun Lead O/S
TCarrick 17/Jun Lead
Lawcallum 17/Jun Lead O/S
Lawcallum 17/Jun Lead O/S
davash91 17/Jun 2nd
fuzzysheep01 17/Jun Lead O/S
justaddpowder 17/Jun AltLd

RNRMMC meet with Adam, me first pitch and him second pitch, very good first p but after the big step a disappointing second p

Jen Jones 28/May 2nd
guy127917 28/May Lead O/S
with Jen
Pero 25/May AltLd
David Chase 18/Apr 2nd
with Kirsty, Ben Hirst
Gerben Neven 05/Apr Lead dnf

Strong suspicion that we were off-route, tried to lead first pitch but couldn't find a logical way up, ended up taking a good 4m fall. Tom tried as well but couldn't get past the same point. First proper trad fall, first time leaving unfinished business

Tom.Sedgwick 05/Apr 2nd
jhobbs 25/Mar 2nd O/S

Awesome route in great position.

with Dafydd
Jimbob64 25/Mar Lead O/S

First two pitches of Grooved Arete linked to BVB

with Jimmi
Dafydd Llywelyn 25/Mar Lead O/S

Great first pitch.. first proper lead of the year.

foostu4 21/Jan Lead O/S

Bloody freezing, couldnt feel hands at all but lovely rock made up for it. Good route

Hidden ??/2017 Lead
huwaaron 12/Oct/16 AltLd

Lead 2nd pitch, scrambled up the east side to the climb, Ste lead first pitch. Was very foggy and cold, came back down north ridge.

Darrell Read 03/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Windy!

with Tim Steward
Tim Francis 20/Sep/16 AltLd
Chloe Wilson 20/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with joeflan
joeflan 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Chloe
andycash 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Ali Logan
Prof. Outdoors 24/Aug/16 AltLd
with Wendy
RobScarisbrick 10/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 10/Aug/16 Lead O/S
James Worthington 06/Aug/16 Lead

North buttress then led both pitches

with Emma
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Solo O/S
Matt Harmon 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

led P1

Hidden 17/Jul/16 2nd
Sarah Roscoe 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led p2

Dave Heaton 02/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Lyndsay Superclimber 31/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Ryan
Hidden 31/May/16 AltLd
charlietorrance 30/May/16 AltLd O/S

led P2.both pitches really nice, great exposure. P1 if the better pitch but good mantle shelf on P2.

j.anstee 29/May/16 AltLd
hornbywill 29/May/16 Lead O/S

All pitches led. A mega link up with BVB.

maumau 29/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead
Hidden 15/May/16 2nd
Fiona Hughes 15/May/16 2nd
with SP
Ian Saxton 14/May/16 2nd
martinbettridge06 14/May/16 2nd
Col Kingshott 14/May/16 Lead O/S
jwpil 14/May/16 Lead O/S
with Ben
Ewan Russell 09/May/16 Solo O/S
with Myself!
John Bunney ?/May/16 -
with Charlie
jake lee 29/Apr/16 Lead
davebrox ??/2016 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
Darron ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
scottywakefield 02/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

Some pockets wet (it was Nov), but overall loved it! Intimidating first pitch but as the grade suggests, holds appeared when needed.

Iain_L_32 02/Nov/15 AltLd
partz 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Very good, well worth seekin out!

Hidden 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
dashby 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Desperate first pitch with two overlaps. The 2nd being very hard indeed. (Afterwards, found we had done the 1st pitch of Gone to the Dogs, 5b, being lured by shiny runner and biner left in situ recently!) The 2nd pitch is a breeze, very easy, but fabulous situation at the grade.

with Dave Prime
ChrisH_273 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
swmackey 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
will_benfold 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Think Lina got the better pitch!

Hidden 19/Sep/15 AltLd
David_Gledson 08/Sep/15 Lead O/S
guy757 30/Aug/15 -
K_Maywood 18/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 18/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
DanDevey94 17/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Exhilerating exposure, completed following from Northern Buttress.

Mr Tickle 17/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Dan2
Dazluke2000 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
beckyjg 08/Jun/15 2nd
JamesWilliams 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing what a stunning route! Once we found the bloody thing that is!

with Becky
Fatclimber 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Pitch one.

Deako 06/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 04/May/15 2nd
karly54 08/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
dkd 08/Apr/15 AltLd
with karly54
jcw ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
derryclimbs 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

ended up going up here after losing the route on Groved Arete. Certainly wasn't disappointed. Great finish to the top

pie_eater_pete ?/Oct/14 Lead
beeney 21/Sep/14 2nd
TomGB 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
leemagowan 20/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Last climb of trip, feeling drained, glad it's over!

Louis Hume 11/Aug/14 Lead


Jenny Hall 11/Aug/14 2nd

Great climb with good views.

with tom wood, Louis
Denry 31/Jul/14 AltLd β

Led first pitch, Emily led 2nd with Tamsin Gay jugging up next to us and commenting on technique.

with Emily Bridger, Tamsin Gay
erbridger 31/Jul/14 AltLd

With Denry and Tamsin.

BareBears 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Mike Gutteridge
Hidden 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Kate Edhouse 21/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

CLimbed grooved arete to reach.

dan gibson 17/Jul/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/14 2nd
MoWalker3 12/Jul/14 -

If you get the choice do the first pitch, its a joy.

with Ross
jwhereat 02/Jul/14 -
rashwell ?/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
K Mckay 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Dan Slome, Ed Poulter
Julesthe1st 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Bart
deejmonkey 18/May/14 AltLd

Superb route on tasty rock with some nice exposure

with Damian
Daymo 18/May/14 AltLd O/S
with DJ
RyanOsborne 17/May/14 AltLd

2nd pitch

Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd
cdpuk 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Nice little finish for the day after grooved arête. Seriously cold on the top pitch.

bigbobbyking 03/May/14 AltLd
with Chris Allan
Marti999 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Glyn Davidson 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

2nd Pitch Only

with Jon Price
spearing05 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. Led pitch 2 and really enjoyed it.

with Andrew
A Crook 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Dom Whillans 16/Apr/14 AltLd
with A Crook
Hidden 15/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead
mrginna 13/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Both pitches... lovely!

with Nick
Hidden ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
becci_amos ??/2014 AltLd
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Charlie Jordan
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Solo
Simon Cahill 24/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch (4c), sustained at grade but probably felt hard with a quite heavy rucksack, happy to be wearing good rock shoes. Note approach by climbing North Buttress, v-diff, descent by North Gully descent path.

with Ann S
Ann S 24/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

(Accessed this route up North Buttress which I recommend if you have already done Grooved Arete.) Led second 4b pitch, where the climb out to the nose is a path, one small nut and micro cam. If using half ropes makes sure they don't both catch under a small 'bird beak' at the very tip of the nose. We finished the route early at the large flat terrace and traversed off left still roped up into top of North gully. Excellent day.

with Simon Cahill
williap 31/Aug/13 AltLd

Adam lead pitch one at VS while I did the airy finish

Pinguville 28/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with George
Hidden 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/13 Lead
lithos 14/Jul/13 AltLd

P1 me , P2 Vhis, approached via Grooved Arete which megan led running pitches together. great rip, quality climbing

with chris CC, megan CC
Matt Marsh 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Ray Sparks 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with mike b
timcedwards ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Mick Hill
rwm7131 25/May/13 AltLd
with JamesA
Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
John Nuttall 19/May/13 Lead
with Sharon
Lawrence Dudley 04/May/13 AltLd
with Julian Prieto
Julian Prieto 04/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1

dsgarner 04/May/13 2nd O/S
with Jim Cockayne
Richard Kinsman ??/2013 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2013 AltLd O/S
with Ian Smith
Zoomer 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Steady away climbing, 2nd pitch a bit disappointing after the exposed move on the nose.

gingergeorge 22/Sep/12 AltLd
fizzychewitt 22/Sep/12 AltLd
with Martin
biggianthead 15/Sep/12 -
with T
Bertbee 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Superb route. Took the second pitch, with the tremendous step out on the arete.

with Ben
Pinguville 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with George
Mouse5 08/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead
JdotP 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S

**** route!

with Jordan Sargeant
gd303uk 06/May/12 AltLd O/S


Chris wilson 01/Apr/12 AltLd
with Ross
Jones_88 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
RossT 01/Apr/12 AltLd
with Chris
adam06 01/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd
Frank Blakeley 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Si
Gerallt Owain 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ryan Roberts
jezb1 11/Mar/12 AltLd

P1. A few of the holds were damp, and with carrying a pack I felt this was 4c. When properly dry I reckon it's an easy 4c. Nice as part of a long route (Grooved Arete to start)

The Ivanator 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

I led minging wet traverse across from Grooved Arete and p2. Great positions and views, some nice sections of climbing too.

with Jez
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -

Pouring rain. Stuff of legend.

davidtrelawnyross ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 16/Oct/11 AltLd
tunaficiency 15/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with kate surry
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
martin c 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

with Steve

Danjones 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Great climbing, good rock and good position - shame there wasn't more of it!

with Steve Keys
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Martin Bennett 02/Jul/11 -
with AlanB
tim20 20/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
deklan ?/Jun/11 -
with dad
Hidden 27/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
pasbury ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Sean Kelly ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/10 2nd
Steve Woollard 16/Oct/10 AltLd
with Lou Reynolds
Scotsken ?/Oct/10 -
Hidden 27/Aug/10 AltLd
Greg M 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
al123 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with greg
preet s 22/Aug/10 AltLd
with Luis Parsons (aka Hero)
Hidden 21/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/10 2nd
centurion05 14/Jun/10 AltLd
HIGHTOWER 14/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Graham Kelshore, Andy Woolston
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd
spragglerocks 15/May/10 AltLd
Hoyes 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
Batt 15/May/10 AltLd O/S

P1. Good route, nice position. Gear a bit fiddly but nice moves.

Hidden 09/May/10 AltLd
simonward 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
soph ??/2010 -
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead
bob johnson 14/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

grooved arete for the first three pitches around the corner and up to the good top two pitches - as usual for this summer rain never far away even though not forecast

with Rich Ball
Tanya Savage 02/May/09 2nd

Not much gear but otherwise fairly straight-forward

Neil Pacey 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Surprisingly well protected and easy for 4c.

Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd
sleavesley 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Matt Sheets
existing debt 22/Apr/09 -
with Iain a
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
Strange little creature 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Scott Cramp
adi bryant ?/Aug/08 AltLd
with Caryl, Ben
Peter Reynolds ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Karlos 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1. Difficulty finding start as guidebook description of Terrace wall didn't match. Exposure jumps as you go round the corner and up onto the small ledges. Gaining the curving scoop a bit ballsy, but good gear and quite pocketed. Traverse out on nose of second pitch looked exposed, but good ledge to follow. Pretty easy after that. Another good route, with amazing views.

with Mark B
Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
RCrockford 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Andy
popov86 01/Jun/08 AltLd
kleinej 24/May/08 AltLd

Nice first pitch. Second pitch had a nice beginning but faded into easy ground.

garywong 24/May/08 2nd O/S
paddygoodwin 24/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Jason
igneouscarl 11/May/08 2nd
with Tom Stahl
Anna Horrox 13/Feb/08 2nd
clive-greenwood 13/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Anna
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hawkscry ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
ellentaylor 29/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/07 AltLd
nigel pearson 22/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

I lead P2

with Robin
Hidden ?/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/May/07 Lead
Shone 05/May/07 2nd O/S
with Graham Townsend and Hilary Lawrenson
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead
Tom Stoddart 06/Apr/07 AltLd
with Iain Leverett
Hidden 24/Mar/07 AltLd
tumbling wizard ?/Feb/07 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Brown 23/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
with John
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Budge 25/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
caradoc 22/Apr/05 AltLd rpt
with MikeW
Laramadness 16/May/04 -
John Marsland 13/May/04 AltLd
with John Haslam
mike fenwick ?/May/04 AltLd
with Ben Pearce
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Lead
rockjedi12345 ?/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
with Phil Mathews
tom.e ?/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
Gman ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with James
csalvage ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Bryan
Martin Lilley ??/2002 2nd O/S
with Dave Slade
Hidden 26/Aug/01 2nd
Howard J 29/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
runestone 29/Jul/01 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
caradoc 19/May/01 Lead O/S

Pitch 1, Central Route

with SallyF
Rog Wilko ?/May/01 Lead

Great route! A bold lead for 1927, much easier with modern gear.

with Debbie Wilkinson
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
BenTiffin ?/Sep/99 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
uphillnow 17/Jul/99 -
nigehughes ?/Aug/98 AltLd
with Ian Beddoes
Hidden 17/May/98 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/98 AltLd
VisionSet ??/1998 Solo rpt
Hidden 27/Sep/97 AltLd
Hidden 24/Aug/97 Solo
Hidden 30/May/97 Lead
Simon cook ?/Jul/96 -
michael burrows 29/Oct/95 AltLd O/S
with richard parry
PaulTclimbing 22/Jul/95 AltLd
with Didymus
Didymus 22/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
colin milton 23/Jun/94 AltLd
with eric milton
Adrian Eggleton 08/May/94 2nd
with Derek Bain
BigHairyIan 31/Aug/93 AltLd O/S
with Mike Gibbison (Hairy)
malc 13/Jun/93 Lead
Sean Kelly ?/May/92 Lead

A very underated climb. The position at the crux is so out there for a trad route on Tryfan.

with Paul Harding
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
Hidden 26/Aug/90 2nd
Rob Davies ?/Jun/90 Lead
with Angus McLean
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
Nick Biven ??/1990 -
babymoac 18/Jun/89 AltLd
with Andrew Ecker
Hidden 10/Jun/88 Lead
hazeysunshine ?/Jul/87 AltLd O/S
amcleish ??/1986 -
Mark Kemball 28/Feb/83 Lead
with George Mumford
Hidden ?/Apr/80 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden 19/May/79 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 19/Aug/78 AltLd O/S

'A perfect climb, very exposed. Probably the best MVS in the country. Fitting for my 200th VS!' Finished day up Bristly Ridge.

with Harry Woodbridge
Bolt Phobia 11/Jun/75 Lead
with Mike Wagemakers, Steve Astington
Bolt Phobia 03/Feb/75 AltLd
with Kit Spencer
kjacks ??/1975 Lead
with Anthony Griffiths
Bob M ?/May/74 Lead
with Jal Arustu
jon ?/May/74 Lead
with Elaine
Bolt Phobia 15/Apr/74 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/73 AltLd
mikej 19/Oct/69 AltLd


with Wil Hurford
eroica64 28/May/66 2nd
with Colin -
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 43
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set