The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A strenuous exercise. Take the rounded breaks to a thin line leading up right of the overhang to join Agag's Direct.
Variation, E2 5c - The crack left through the upper overhang. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Strenuous. Protection has to be worked for.
1) 5b. Near the back of the bay, climb the rounded breaks; then boldly climb up the
black quartz vein, to join the finish of Agag’s Direct.
1b) E2 5C variation finish - Through the overhang via the leftward crack.
Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(The Dewerstone)