4 pitches. A route from the half-way ledge of La Dent De Man to the top, including some very high quality climbing. The grade is not settled. The crux pitch sequence was figured out while cleaning, is very specific and the gear there is not good. E4 would perhaps be a little more accurate for an onsight ascent but hoping that further repeats or discussions will settle this. A fall would likely result to a tumble onto the slab below and even a sprain is far from ideal up here. It would be recommended to inspect the climb on the ab, especially since it might need a clean.

On reaching the summit plateau via the log ladder, go immediately right, where the crag drops a couple of metres onto a ledge, with a notch on the left. Abseil down the notch, trending rightwards until the half-way ledge is reached.

100m static rope recommended for the abseil. 50m half ropes sufficient for the climb.

P1 (E1 5c-ish). Start at the bottom of a crack, to the left of the triangular block. Climb up the crack until level with the top of the anatomically correct heart shaped block on the left. Traverse carefully onto the block then enter the magnificent corner crack that keeps on giving. Belay 2m from the top of the crack.
P2 (HVS 4c). Mantel onto the ledge at the top of the crack. Step down and left and foot traverse to a large hole. Arrange a good anchor and belay from below the hole.
P3 (E3 5c). The crux pitch. Small Superlight Rocks recommended. From the hole, step up and right, place a singular very small nut, then make an involved rising left traverse on nothing but sidepulls until a good flat hold can be reached. Much harder for the short. Pad up and left into the delightful pod and climb to the ledge. Belay from the bottom of the crack.
P4 (HVS 5b). The offwidth. Bring *LARGE* gear. Climb the crack... or not! Climb easily to the top.

Alkis Tsapanidis, Oliver Ross 07/Jan/2019

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Alkis 7 Jan AltLd RP FA. Led P1 more or less onsight, had worked P3 while cleaning it.
FA. Led P1 more or less onsight, had worked P3 while cleaning it.
OliverRoss 7 Jan AltLd RP An amazing memory. A route which overlooks forests growing out of rolling hills in every direction. We worked hard as a team of 5 for 3 days to find and clean the route, and it payed off as we were laughing about the route for days after as we looked back up at it from Man. Solid granite, and exceptional and varied climbing. P.s. Alkis doesn't want to say it's E4 because we've never climbed E4. But for me 5c moves that sequency and high above decent gear (the belay) are a big step up from E3s I've done. Adding into it that it's so awkward to get back down to the hospital, with obviously no local rescue teams, makes me comfortable assuming this grade for an onsite. This debate may never matter if only insects climb it, but I hope it does matter.
with Alkis
An amazing memory. A route which overlooks forests growing out of rolling hills in every direction. We worked hard as a team of 5 for 3 days to find and clean the route, and it payed off as we were laughing about the route for days after as we looked back up at it from Man. Solid granite, and exceptional and varied climbing. P.s. Alkis doesn't want to say it's E4 because we've never climbed E4. But for me 5c moves that sequency and high above decent gear (the belay) are a big step up from E3s I've done. Adding into it that it's so awkward to get back down to the hospital, with obviously no local rescue teams, makes me comfortable assuming this grade for an onsite. This debate may never matter if only insects climb it, but I hope it does matter.
with Alkis
timmr002 5 Jan TR RP Didn't do the first or last pitch. Middle pitches went straight away with Alkis shouting beta at me. Gutted I didn't have time to lead, because I did fancy it... will be back.
with Alkis
Didn't do the first or last pitch. Middle pitches went straight away with Alkis shouting beta at me. Gutted I didn't have time to lead, because I did fancy it... will be back.
with Alkis
Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2