Very eliminate, but with some good climbing. If the crux is avoided, by climbing past it on the left, the grade is reduced to a still worthwhile HVS 5b.
A very blinkered approach must be taken to holds on Central Groove.
1) 5c. Start 4 metres left of Central Groove. Climb a slabby wall to reach a steeper one, left of Central Groove’s crack. Take this wall on well-spaced, small holds, to a small overhang (left of the bollard/thread on Central Groove). Surmount the overhang direct, to reach a good flake, and continue up the shallow corner. Just before the ledge, move round the arête on the right, via a break (Friends). Powerful moves up (crux) lead to a slab, and a belay beneath the final bulge of Extendable Arms (Pg 12).
2) 4b. Move up right, through ivy, and take the bulge at its right-hand end, to reach the top.
A very blinkered approach must be taken to holds on Central Groove.
1) 5c. Start 4 metres left of Central Groove. Climb a slabby wall to reach a steeper one, left of Central Groove’s crack. Take this wall on well-spaced, small holds, to a small overhang (left of the bollard/thread on Central Groove). Surmount the overhang direct, to reach a good flake, and continue up the shallow corner. Just before the ledge, move round the arête on the right, via a break (Friends). Powerful moves up (crux) lead to a slab, and a belay beneath the final bulge of Extendable Arms (Pg 12).
2) 4b. Move up right, through ivy, and take the bulge at its right-hand end, to reach the top.
1991.
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Route of Interest
Gideon
Grade: E1 5b ***
(The Dewerstone)