Very eliminate, but with some good climbing. If the crux is avoided, by climbing past it on the left, the grade is reduced to a still worthwhile HVS 5b.
A very blinkered approach must be taken to holds on Central Groove.
1) 5c. Start 4 metres left of Central Groove. Climb a slabby wall to reach a steeper one, left of Central Groove’s crack. Take this wall on well-spaced, small holds, to a small overhang (left of the bollard/thread on Central Groove). Surmount the overhang direct, to reach a good flake, and continue up the shallow corner. Just before the ledge, move round the arête on the right, via a break (Friends). Powerful moves up (crux) lead to a slab, and a belay beneath the final bulge of Extendable Arms (Pg 12).
2) 4b. Move up right, through ivy, and take the bulge at its right-hand end, to reach the top.


Jimmykeenan01 ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb. Lovely layback crack on the last pitch

Chappy 07/May/12 AltLd O/S

I seconded the first pitch but lead the second...... and aslo my first multi-pitch climb!:)

horswell5 18/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with shaun
Hidden 22/May/09 Lead O/S
pedro.silva 22/May/09 2nd dog

Avoided the crux - HVS 5a Desperate finish, at least for me. Were it a bit wetter I'd been off.

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