Restricted Access
The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.An exciting outing that covers the entire main face of Devil's Rock.
Start up P1 of Vineyard to tree belay.
Traverse R around arete (climbed by Leviathan) and continue across Vala and onto Central Groove. Downclimb Central Groove to the thread belay.
Traverse R across the blank wall to a small ledge on the arete (dodgy peg here-back it up). The peg has now gone, its remains are visible. make a rising traverse R across irregularly traveled ground until the bollard belay of Gideon in reached (this is the crux pitch).
From here move R into the V-groove of Climbers Club, and then out again on big hold to the tree belay of Route B.
Continue up Route B to finish at the highest point of Devil's Rock.
Start up P1 of Vineyard to tree belay.
Traverse R around arete (climbed by Leviathan) and continue across Vala and onto Central Groove. Downclimb Central Groove to the thread belay.
Traverse R across the blank wall to a small ledge on the arete (dodgy peg here-back it up). The peg has now gone, its remains are visible. make a rising traverse R across irregularly traveled ground until the bollard belay of Gideon in reached (this is the crux pitch).
From here move R into the V-groove of Climbers Club, and then out again on big hold to the tree belay of Route B.
Continue up Route B to finish at the highest point of Devil's Rock.
1963.
Ticklists
Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist
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Route of Interest
Double Diamond
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Lundy)