75m. The crux is short and sharp. A right to left traverse of the Devil’s Rock.
1) 4b. As for Climbers’ Club, to the niche.
2) 5c. Move left, out of the niche, and round the arête. Make a hard move to
gain the crack of Energy Crisis. Up this to the spike on Gideon. Traverse left to
the arête, and across the wall of Scimitar, to belay in Central Groove.
3) 4c. Climb down, move left into Vala, and then up Vala until it is possible to reach
the arête. Move up, and round the arête, then traverse to the tree belay of Vineyard. Finish up Vineyard (Pg 11), or abseil off.

1978


ClimberDateStyle
alice fuller ?/Jun AltLd

Pete lead Lateral Thinking to the Gideon belay.. he did the 5c moves using a fist jam... I face climbed using crimpy laybacks, a gaston and superior foot placements:)... the main moves on Climbers Club and never easy, even though I think I can jam now.. but missed the knee jam rest at the Gideon spike, got very pumped. Then lead the easy way out up Gideon.

Hidden 21/Aug/86 Lead O/S
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