28m.
The contrived, super-smooth slab moves of the original E5 can be circumvented on the left, giving a good pitch of much more uniform/amenable grade. The fine crux is on the upper slab, well protected and with a good handrail to target.
Sadly the finish is dire; the climb/scramble out has been negotiated in recent times but it is strongly recommended to approach by abseil and drape the rope out of the way on the left (facing in), leaving it within grab-range when the top of the slab is reached. A good no. 2 wire can be placed just below the top of the rock to protect that manoeuvre.
Sadly the finish is dire; the climb/scramble out has been negotiated in recent times but it is strongly recommended to approach by abseil and drape the rope out of the way on the left (facing in), leaving it within grab-range when the top of the slab is reached. A good no. 2 wire can be placed just below the top of the rock to protect that manoeuvre.
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Route of Interest
Jamaican Dub
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Blackchurch)