30m. Good diagonal line across the wall. Peg snapped in a short fall, route is now pushing E4 as alternate protection is small and fiddly and the ground is close beneath on the crux. The original joins The Dangler. The variation finish is more satisfying, for the competent; but pushes the route to the upper end of its grade. Start below a small roof.
1) 6a. Move round the corner, and up a small groove; hard moves gain a traverse
line. Go right, (micro-cams far right) and make a very hard move up, to gain holds above.
Move right, to another overhang. A hard move gains the V groove on the right.
Climb up the groove, past yet another roof, to gain a ramp. Finish up the slab.
Ledge and tree belay. Walk off right.


kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead dog

One sit on the gear. The dirtiest route I have ever climbed.

with RusseyB
feilx 23/May/11 Lead O/S
with Heather
CraigMac1 ??/2006 -
Hidden 18/Sep/04 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton ?/Sep/99 Lead dog

Took 1 fall, then sat on gear and worked out the crux, so not really led it! 00 quadcam useful.

Simon cook ?/Sep/97 AltLd

With Steve bell

Hidden ?/May/94 Lead G/U
Derek Ryden 27/Aug/93 Lead O/S

Wet in back of top crack. Started raining - only just got up before it got impossible. Hard for Ian to second....

with Ian Parnell
Hidden 30/Jun/85 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ?/Jul/79 Lead
with Pete O'Sullivan
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High E4
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High 6a+
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High 6a
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Ground Up
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