UKC

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Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June). 
35m.

Rockfax Description
A fierce start gains good face moves on the upper wall. Start at a steep crack in a recess up and right of the small twin caves. Climb the tough crack and at its end move left and up to a long narrow roof. Traverse 3m left to a ledge and then climb the fine wall above on pockets to a move left that gains a groove. Climb the groove, its continuation, and the slab above to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A tough pitch on account of immediate hard climbing, good plan to get a warm up on something else first...
The initial crack stays damp for some time after rain.
The 'shattered groove' has some hollow rock and needs a bit of care in holds and placements.

FFA B Wilkinson 14/Apr/1979.

Ticklists

Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9

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User Date Notes
brian watson 2 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Description for this doesn't match cc guide.
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βeta: Description for this doesn't match cc guide.

Logged Ascents

74 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 4 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 6
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Oesophagus

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)

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