Rockfax Description
The twin cracks just left of the centre of the slab. Take care with the finish; a short (2m) tail from your abseil rope could prove useful here. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Thin crack just left of centre of the grey slab


ClimberDateStyle
Jen Jones 27/Aug 2nd β
guy127917 27/Aug Lead O/S
with Jen
Jake397 13/Aug TR
Chris Murray 08/Aug Lead
DanChad 08/Aug 2nd O/S
Harry Ellis 01/Jul TR

Self belay

Hidden 27/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun 2nd O/S
CameronH 27/Jun 2nd O/S
with Felicity Eperon, Josh Abrahams
ManuelS 29/May Lead O/S

Great climb, especially the top section, except for the loose exit. Harder to get gear in on the middle part than it seems but still well protected.

malcolmphelps 29/May Lead O/S

Ab stakes were in good condition. Steady enjoyable 4c with plenty of gear for the first two-thirds. Top third is easier but lacks gear. Put a prussik on the abseil rope at the top and you may avoid having to pull on the ab to get out. Still a good route despite the character building finish!

ali.scott 27/May Lead O/S

Good climbing, and doesn't seem like it gets much traffic. Loose, dangerous topout some way above gear - guidebook isn't joking when it recommends dangling a rope over the edge! HVS seems right.

steve_gibbs 27/May 2nd O/S
Robin Woodward 29/Aug/16 Lead dog

Bit of a nervous epic where I at one point found sanctuary in the grabbing of the final peg diminishing the lead somewhat. Jenny ripped out a head sized block on second resulting in one of her longest falls.

will_benfold 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
LovelyMrTom 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Good route

freec 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Steady climbing with fantastic gear and no crux moves, top 2m are crumbly!

matt1024 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/16 2nd
RubySeagull ?/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Dan
Hidden ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
davebrox ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Kirill 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S
cem 31/Aug/15 2nd
ReubenS1990 ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Whipinator ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/15 TR O/S
Norman_P_W 27/May/15 2nd
with Bob M
Bob M 27/May/15 Lead

Very loose top out - glad we left a rope in place to pull out on.

Ian JL 27/May/15 2nd O/S
Jodiaway 23/May/15 2nd
with Daj
Hidden 17/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead O/S
bryce.dorin 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with Katie
Hidden 03/Aug/14 2nd
musgravet 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S

left the ab rope in, extremely necessary to finish the climb

RachelP 25/May/14 2nd
JoeWilliams 10/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Kelvin W
Steve Lenartowicz 14/Sep/13 TR
with Clare
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/13 TR
with Mr Shunt
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
cameron_hall 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

An OK climb, but not as interesting as I'd expected, and spoiled by the loose ground at the top. (I used a dangling rope to get over the gravelly edge.)

mjeffery 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with J
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
lcullum7 12/Jun/13 2nd O/S
RUDIN.J.D.H 12/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Chossy top out. Ab rope recommendead to be used for safety.

with Mike Mason
kyaizawa 12/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
jimbonfire 05/May/13 Lead O/S
gw3285 04/Jun/12 2nd
max_chan 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Becky E 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Definitely no VS! HVS is about right. Set up ab rope (on stubby stake and gorse bushes) to protect the top-out (loose and chossy), but actually approached by abbing down the other slabs and scrambling round the bottom - which was good fun in its own right.

will9911 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with John
djromberg ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Alex the Alex ?/Mar/12 2nd
pad-rat ??/2012 -
Joris.Roulleau 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
MichJ 27/Aug/11 TR
with Andy Miller
Rob Hirst ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
climbingchica ?/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 04/May/11 2nd
Little AndyH 01/May/11 2nd
jtree03 01/May/11 2nd
with Dan
Hidden 07/Sep/10 Lead
Oliver Sherman 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Not much gear to 2/3rds height, if I've got the right route - twin cracks as described in the latest Rockfax.

with Matt Reed
Dibdawg 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dominic Turner
Paul Bowen 01/Jun/10 Lead rpt

needs new belay stake would benefit from more traffic then.. good route HVS 5a in new rockfax is better grade

Claire Taylor 21/Aug/09 TR O/S
with Nick Weston, Ken Weston
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 24/Aug/07 -
Mark Davies PK 07/Sep/06 Lead β

new stakes at top of climb - removed some of the vegetation and lose rock on climb - this is a good climb definately worth one star and possibly HVS 5A (it is harder than Armorican)

with Laura
HazelMacLean 30/Jun/03 TR

'80' slab'

Hidden 12/May/01 -
krishewz ?/Jul/00 -
belay bunny turned bad ??/2000 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/2000 -
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 24
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set