Rockfax Description
This is an excellent little climb that takes the prominent crack/chimney system that splits the face. Those seeking traditional chimney thrutching might be disappointed however as most of the climbing involves delicate bridging on the outside of the crack.
Start just left of a large boulder below the centre of the face.
1) III, 40m. Climb featured rock towards the corner-crack which splits the centre of the face. Keep right of a yellow roof and step right to a stance just above and right of this.
2) IV-, 30m. Climb a crack direct to reach a narrow chimney, and climb this before following a flake out left to a stance.
3) IV-, 30m. Step back right into the crack and climb this direct to reach a gully leading right. Follow this up and right for 10m to a stance.
4) IV, 40m. Follow the gully right for a couple of metres, then climb the wall above diagonally left to re-enter the crack. Climb this to reach a stance at the base of a ramp leading left. (This leads to the ridge and the summit, III, 100m).
5) IV-, 25m. Ignore the ramp and instead keep following the crack right towards the overhanging face. Belay just below a yellow overhang.
6) V-, 10m. Continue to the overhang and pull left through this. (The Original Finish continues direct and right here). Continue up and left to a stance on slabby rock below another roof.
7) IV-, 60m. Traverse left following a ledge then climb a loose crack direct to reach the northwest ridge. Follow this easily right to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the obvious crack as far as the big left slanting break. Go up this to the summit. Descend down the back of the peak. A better start is left of the base of the crack for 50m.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Jake397 12 Sep AltLd
with Storme
with Storme
Storme 12 Sep AltLd I led first half of pitch 1 then got stuck at the chimney and brought Jake up. Also led pitches 2 and 4. Then we escaped onto the scramble to reach the summit.
with Jake397
I led first half of pitch 1 then got stuck at the chimney and brought Jake up. Also led pitches 2 and 4. Then we escaped onto the scramble to reach the summit.
with Jake397
paaljt 1 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 2018 Lead
Jamie-Hargreaves 24 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Tarquin 24 Jul, 2018 -
Genevieve_Arnaud 24 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Rachel Hoyland 18 Jul, 2018 2nd dnf We abbed from the top of pitch 1 of 8 due to cold
We abbed from the top of pitch 1 of 8 due to cold
adi bryant 18 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf Too bloody cold so we abbed off.
Too bloody cold so we abbed off.
Hidden ?Jul, 2018 Lead
TeddyC 13 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S maybe i didn't understand it but i thought this climb was not great
with dad
maybe i didn't understand it but i thought this climb was not great
with dad
RocKalina ?Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
davkeo 23 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Moved together for all. Nice exposed move on crux. 1hr20.
Moved together for all. Nice exposed move on crux. 1hr20.
mim tiller 23 Jun, 2017 AltLd Aye nae bad
with davkeo
Aye nae bad
with davkeo
Hidden 18 Jun, 2017 -
gateaublaster 23 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S First 3 piches were perfect, climbed 4th on parallel crack/chimney to the right and had to make belay before traversing back on route. Topped out in the dark and very slowly made our way down the stepped scree slope.. Not a great finish
First 3 piches were perfect, climbed 4th on parallel crack/chimney to the right and had to make belay before traversing back on route. Topped out in the dark and very slowly made our way down the stepped scree slope.. Not a great finish
Debbie Lee 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd Felt a bit chilly in the shade, great moves on some of the middle pitches.
with MrRiley
Felt a bit chilly in the shade, great moves on some of the middle pitches.
with MrRiley
MrRiley 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Wasnt sold after the first two pitches but the rest is stellar. Felt hard for the grade but maybe just cold. Crux is a bit bold! http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2016/09/dolomiti-super-summer/
Wasnt sold after the first two pitches but the rest is stellar. Felt hard for the grade but maybe just cold. Crux is a bit bold! http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2016/09/dolomiti-super-summer/
tom jefferies 20 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
with oli dowen
with oli dowen
Mike W ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 26 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Iain
with Iain
Hidden 7 Sep, 2014 AltLd dnf
stf ??, 2014 -
Hidden 11 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
alicethwaites 20 Jun, 2013 2nd
tim exley 20 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf
murrayd 28 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
jasoncash 28 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with murrayd
with murrayd
jasoncash 28 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with murrayd
with murrayd
cpoad 9 Jul, 2012 AltLd β Lovely long chimney pitch and nice V move near top. Didn't get hailed on this time.
with John S
Lovely long chimney pitch and nice V move near top. Didn't get hailed on this time.
with John S
Hidden 7 Jul, 2012 AltLd
Sankey 7 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Jon and Ed
with Jon and Ed
MikeDowsett 7 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Ruth Gordon
with Ruth Gordon
Gregthebadger 24 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Chris_Mullaney ??, 2011 2nd
with kyle wood
with kyle wood
Chris_Mullaney 28 Aug, 2010 2nd
with Mr. K
with Mr. K
Mr. K 28 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Did the easier leftward finish as described in the Classic Dolomites Climbs guidebook as we were pressed for time after starting up the wrong line too far to the right earlier on in the day.
Did the easier leftward finish as described in the Classic Dolomites Climbs guidebook as we were pressed for time after starting up the wrong line too far to the right earlier on in the day.
Elsier 19 Jul, 2010 Lead With direct finish, nice route
with Andy White
With direct finish, nice route
with Andy White
Hidden 26 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?May, 2010 -
Luis SD 7 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Em66 19 Jun, 2008 2nd
with Freg1
with Freg1
halhorner 14 Aug, 2007 AltLd
with Trevor Witts
with Trevor Witts
Ing 14 Aug, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 18 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
clive-greenwood 6 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
Anna Horrox 6 Aug, 2006 2nd
cpoad 22 Jul, 2006 AltLd dnf Thunderstorm came early and we got soaked and hailed on, so diverted left up the side (as shown in guide book) avoiding the V pitch just to get up it.
with Clare F
Thunderstorm came early and we got soaked and hailed on, so diverted left up the side (as shown in guide book) avoiding the V pitch just to get up it.
with Clare F
FrankW 15 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Joe
with Joe
AndyP 10 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Very fine route. The crux is full 4c maybe 5a.
with Jamie
Very fine route. The crux is full 4c maybe 5a.
with Jamie
IanMcC 29 Jul, 2004 AltLd Only IV by Kohler description- but we ended descending a horrid snow gully and missed chairlift
Only IV by Kohler description- but we ended descending a horrid snow gully and missed chairlift
Stuart Macfarlane ?Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Dave S
with Dave S
jamie ward 13 Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Parish
with Andrew Parish
Hidden 30 Jul, 2002 AltLd O/S
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set