38m.
Art-rock and climbing coincide on this steep and continuously engaging climb. Good double-ropework essential. Equipped in 2019 with good threads and low-corrosion pegs. Follow The Holy Hour up through the steep apex to the in-situ thread. Bear rightwards up the overhung corner and use curious cemented breccia holds to gain a resting niche (good high wire). Fingering further stuck-on rock fragments, tip-toe rightwards and stretch to clip a peg. Step up, bridge out right and enter a bottomless corner with considerable exposure. Continue to a weird stuck-on pancake (peg and thread), a concluding thoughtful sequence then gains good holds and easier ground. Scramble out, first leftwards over rock (thread), then rightwards over ivy (past a bush) to the top. Tree belay up left.
FA. S.Wooster, B.Woodley 19/Apr/2019.
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Route of Interest
Black Ice
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Long Quarry Point)