Rockfax Description
A well-defined corner on the right-hand side of the wall provides the best of the sub-extreme routes at Brean Down. Start at a left-slanting flake-crack that leads up to the corner. Approach the mid-height break via the right-to-left-slanting flake-line. The steep corner above is sustained but has plenty of gear and a few plants. Stake belays and additional belays in the rock outcrops further up the slope. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

EllieWoods 03/Dec/17 2nd O/S
with Pete Callaghan, Dave C
petecallaghan 03/Dec/17 Lead O/S

Excellent climb. Well protected with large passive gear. The corner is sustained but solid throughout. No sign of loose rock. Felt quite sandy and greasy towards the top, so a bit strenuous and insecure. The stake at the top seems fine and there is also a solid rock spike a little higher.

John1458 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Vinnyb 19/Mar/17 2nd O/S
J.A.Thomson 19/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Vince
julesmckim 20/Jan/17 2nd O/S

Proper trad, nice change after Boulder Cove bolt clipping.

with Rob Smart
Circus 26/Feb/16 Lead O/S
with Seren
Hidden 26/Feb/16 2nd
Matthew Martin Wsm 19/Oct/14 Lead

Steep sustained and scary at the top, got it eventually, high in the grade technically, although plenty of gear

with ian marshall
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
sheelba 07/Sep/14 Lead dog

A bit harrowing. Took a pointless near the top as I'd had enough by that point, very sustained, hard for VS. Ran out of big gear, some sandy holds and a horrible dodgy top out. Just beat the tide and only just had enough rope (on 50's) to set up the belay. The ice cream shop was shut by the time we finished as well. But otherwise a great climb!

Mark Davies PK 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Really ace climbing. excellent rock, sustained 4c but loads of protection possibilities, straightforward top out and there is a stake at the top. first onsight for a while so took a bit of time!

with Rick Sewards
Quarryboy 13/Jul/14 2nd β

Good to climb the whole thing at last on a nice sunny day.

with Rick Sewards, Mark Davies
Alex Whitmore ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S
RM199 18/May/14 2nd O/S
James Jackson ??/2014 -
richardsavill 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with jez blake, Sarah Rowlands
sarahrowlands 03/Jun/13 2nd
Stanners 17/Mar/13 Lead O/S

very nice in glorious sunshine, but got scared towards the top not having enough chunky gear resulting in a huge run out!

with Deepstar, James Rich, Mark Davis
JamesRich 17/Mar/13 2nd O/S

Classic brean trad with a horrible top out to round it off nicely.

goddamm7 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Andy Fielding 17/Feb/13 Lead
Paul Robertson 11/Jan/13 2nd rpt
guy xavier percival 11/Jan/13 Lead RP

Classic. The top bit is a bit vegetated, but it all adds to the experience.

with paul
Hidden ??/2013 -
Quarryboy 21/Dec/12 Lead dnf

Was looking pretty damp from the ground but Mark wanted some photos of it pretty badly so decided to go up and see how far I could get. Got about a 3rd of the way up the corner before I realised that the angle had kicked back a lot more and the crack was getting increasingly wet. At that point seeing as Mark had taken a few photos I decided to down climb and leave it for another day.

BeccaSnowden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Very good route shame about the veg - would be 3* if clean. I got a thread and nut belay in the outcrops far back. Lovely rock, really solid. A good adventure if you don't mind an audience!

Dibdawg 30/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Will Twiggers
Shaky Dog 31/Mar/12 2nd
with James
puppythedog 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Crap rock, crap top out not brilliant in my opinion. Plus I didn't trust the stake and although I belayed off it we decided not to Ab off it.

with KDW
Dave Ing 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S

The corner was pretty sustained but loads of medium sized pro.

with Mike (Weston SM)
Hidden 29/Mar/12 2nd
Skullfire 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Mat Mitchell
dan gibson 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with alley
Chris Sansum 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Nice topout onto sand!

with Gary Lewin
arandall 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
benkelsey 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S

pleasant for brean but not a good climb.

Paul_southgate68 21/Jul/10 2nd O/S

tough vs,found it harder than cyclops slab!

with super gav
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
deklan 28/Mar/09 2nd
with luke
luke13 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Dec
Hidden 16/Mar/09 Lead β
jon thompson27 ?/Mar/09 Lead
with Alex Thompson
Hidden ??/2009 -
thrutch 13/Apr/08 Lead
with helen
thomasadixon 12/Jan/08 Lead O/S

Tough at VS, sustained good route. Good belays in the outcrops at the top, didn't see what the problem was with the top out, seemed fine to me.

with Charles
Chubbard 12/Jan/08 Lead O/S
chockstone ?/Jan/08 Lead O/S

first lead

with Dan Sidaway
Tristan.Stricker ?/Jun/07 -

Horrid top-out vertical sand with a boblly belay and dodgy nut for a belay, otherwise a good-ish climb

with Bird
Paz 26/Nov/06 2nd β
with SI
sdi 26/Nov/06 Lead dog

Probably not as hard if you don't hang around halfway up the crack for too long

with Paz
Somerset swede basher 15/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Rich Siddle
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
upontop ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Trevor
7ames ??/2004 Lead
DerwentDiluted ?/Jun/02 Lead
MikeC59 11/May/02 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/99 Lead
mikej 19/Oct/97 Lead
with Nick Salmon
pezzerrr ??/1996 Lead O/S
snowcat ?/Aug/93 2nd

First proper climbing

with Chris Schiller
leadmat ??/1993 -
with Chris Hingston
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/92 Lead O/S
babymoac 10/Oct/87 Lead
Ali MacDonald 14/Mar/87 Lead O/S

Climbed with a lad from the RAF Regiment, can't remember his name.

Hidden ??/1985 -
beaumap 25/Jun/81 Lead
with Martin Davis
Chris Terrey 07/Jun/81 AltLd
with Dave Walker, Pete Hevezi
Nigel Bond 18/Jun/80 AltLd
with Ian
duncan ?/Apr/78 TR
with Peter Thorne
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 20
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set