Rockfax Description
The easiest route on the face. Despite the poorer quality of rock midway through the route and the somewhat discontinuous nature, the upper pitches feature some lovely climbing.
Start on the right-hand side of the pyramid, by a cemented ring, at the left edge of a triangular-shaped slab bordered on its right by a prominent gully.
1) III+, 30m. Ascend the ramp to the right easily following the more solid rock to a comfortable stance.
2) IV, 45m. Continue in the same line, overcoming a short vertical section, ignoring red markers up a crack (harder variant). Continue to reach the arete.
3) IV, 40m. Reach the arete and follow this for a short way. Climb poor rock just right of the arete then move back left of the arete onto easier ground and a good stance below a slab.
4) IV, 40m. Climb the slab direct to reach a small ledge right on the edge of the arete.
5) III+, 30m. Climb the arete on excellent rock to reach a red painted arrow.
6) IV, 40m. Climb the wall above with enjoyable climbing, then follow the grassy ridge just left of the arete.
7) III, 35m. Climb a short slab to reach a vegetated ledge. Via en Coulisse joins here. Continue past the bolt belay and keep left of the arete then follow a ramp left to a good stance.
8) IV, 40m. Climb an enjoyable corner to the next ledge, then continue direct up a corner-crack. Climb excellent rock direct to a comfortable belay.
9) IV-, 30m. Continue with a final few moves of enjoyable climbing to exit onto a ledge near the via ferrata cable and just below the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A very loose route with a good 4b move up a small headwall at about half hight.
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Logged Ascents
| User | Date | Style | Notes & Partners
|
|---|---|---|---|
| Franky Maynard | 28 Aug | 2nd | |
| Franky Maynard | 28 Aug | 2nd | |
| Hidden | 10 Jul | AltLd O/S | |
| daveclarke5 | 21 Jul, 2018 | AltLd |
Final 3 pitches and descent in rain with Stephen |
| Final 3 pitches and descent in rain with Stephen |
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| Tarquin | 19 Jul, 2018 | - | |
| Hidden | 19 Jul, 2018 | Lead | |
| Hidden | 17 Jun, 2018 | AltLd | |
| Sam B | 17 Jun, 2018 | AltLd | First introduction to Dolomites climbing. Absolutely fantastic day out, including this route, a via ferrata, and an impromptu exploration of a WWI fort. The route itself was quite loose and chossy in places, so care is needed. Belay stations are rarely protected from rock fall. |
| First introduction to Dolomites climbing. Absolutely fantastic day out, including this route, a via ferrata, and an impromptu exploration of a WWI fort. The route itself was quite loose and chossy in places, so care is needed. Belay stations are rarely protected from rock fall. | |||
| Hidden | 17 Jun, 2018 | AltLd O/S | |
| betathief | 14 Oct, 2017 | AltLd |
with Jessicacrump |
with Jessicacrump |
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| Jessicacrump | 14 Oct, 2017 | AltLd |
with betathief |
with betathief |
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| johnE | 22 Aug, 2017 | Lead O/S |
A very nice route - think grooved arete on tryfan, but 50% longer. There is something to be said for the easiest route up the face. At the top there is a abseil ring by the ferrata, leading to a loose gully and and a scamble across to the descent path. We did this. It was a mistake. with Gerry, James |
| A very nice route - think grooved arete on tryfan, but 50% longer. There is something to be said for the easiest route up the face. At the top there is a abseil ring by the ferrata, leading to a loose gully and and a scamble across to the descent path. We did this. It was a mistake. with Gerry, James |
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| Hidden | 8 Jul, 2017 | Lead O/S | |
| MrRiley | 20 Aug, 2016 | AltLd O/S |
Climbed a couple of pitches of this mid way up after getting lost on Via en Coulisse thanks to poor description, then finished up final three pitches of this after the end of that route. Seemed like a poor climb with Debbie Lee |
| Climbed a couple of pitches of this mid way up after getting lost on Via en Coulisse thanks to poor description, then finished up final three pitches of this after the end of that route. Seemed like a poor climb with Debbie Lee |
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| Debbie Lee | 20 Aug, 2016 | AltLd |
In detour after getting off route on via en coulisse. with MrRiley |
| In detour after getting off route on via en coulisse. with MrRiley |
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| Gibbs3799 | 23 Jul, 2016 | Lead | Guiding three novices retreated after thunder storm and phenomenal rock fall extremely dangerous. |
| Guiding three novices retreated after thunder storm and phenomenal rock fall extremely dangerous. | |||
| Hidden | 6 Sep, 2013 | Lead O/S | |
| Tarquin | 6 Sep, 2013 | Lead | |
| fishjh2 | 6 Sep, 2013 | 2nd | |
| Hidden | ??, 2013 | Lead O/S | |
| Hidden | 28 Aug, 2011 | AltLd O/S | |
| benclimbing | 28 Aug, 2011 | AltLd O/S |
with Dave Latimer |
with Dave Latimer |
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| Hidden | ??, 2008 | AltLd | |
| AndyP | 16 Jul, 2006 | AltLd O/S |
A horribly broken route with tons of loose rock. The head wall was my lead and was a good move but I am suprised that this route makes it into the Italian (Bernadi) selective guide. The route was packed with Italians as well. with Jamie |
| A horribly broken route with tons of loose rock. The head wall was my lead and was a good move but I am suprised that this route makes it into the Italian (Bernadi) selective guide. The route was packed with Italians as well. with Jamie |
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| Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons | ??, 2006 | AltLd O/S |
Open route, very loose in places, actually nearly all of it. After some pitches there was this sort of vertical scree! Poor quality route, more of a scramble than a climb. with Andy porter |
| Open route, very loose in places, actually nearly all of it. After some pitches there was this sort of vertical scree! Poor quality route, more of a scramble than a climb. with Andy porter |
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