Rockfax Description
The easiest route on the face. Despite the poorer quality of rock midway through the route and the somewhat discontinuous nature, the upper pitches feature some lovely climbing.
Start on the right-hand side of the pyramid, by a cemented ring, at the left edge of a triangular-shaped slab bordered on its right by a prominent gully.
1) III+, 30m. Ascend the ramp to the right easily following the more solid rock to a comfortable stance.
2) IV, 45m. Continue in the same line, overcoming a short vertical section, ignoring red markers up a crack (harder variant). Continue to reach the arete.
3) IV, 40m. Reach the arete and follow this for a short way. Climb poor rock just right of the arete then move back left of the arete onto easier ground and a good stance below a slab.
4) IV, 40m. Climb the slab direct to reach a small ledge right on the edge of the arete.
5) III+, 30m. Climb the arete on excellent rock to reach a red painted arrow.
6) IV, 40m. Climb the wall above with enjoyable climbing, then follow the grassy ridge just left of the arete.
7) III, 35m. Climb a short slab to reach a vegetated ledge. Via en Coulisse joins here. Continue past the bolt belay and keep left of the arete then follow a ramp left to a good stance.
8) IV, 40m. Climb an enjoyable corner to the next ledge, then continue direct up a corner-crack. Climb excellent rock direct to a comfortable belay.
9) IV-, 30m. Continue with a final few moves of enjoyable climbing to exit onto a ledge near the via ferrata cable and just below the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A very loose route with a good 4b move up a small headwall at about half hight.

betathief 14/Oct AltLd
johnE 22/Aug Lead O/S

A very nice route - think grooved arete on tryfan, but 50% longer. There is something to be said for the easiest route up the face. At the top there is a abseil ring by the ferrata, leading to a loose gully and and a scamble across to the descent path. We did this. It was a mistake.

with Gerry, James
Hidden 08/Jul Lead O/S
MrRiley 20/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Climbed a couple of pitches of this mid way up after getting lost on Via en Coulisse thanks to poor description, then finished up final three pitches of this after the end of that route. Seemed like a poor climb

Debbie Lee 20/Aug/16 AltLd

In detour after getting off route on via en coulisse.

Gibbs3799 23/Jul/16 Lead

Guiding three novices retreated after thunder storm and phenomenal rock fall extremely dangerous.

Hidden 06/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Tarquin 06/Sep/13 Lead
fishjh2 06/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Dave Latimer 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
benclimbing 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
AndyP 16/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

A horribly broken route with tons of loose rock. The head wall was my lead and was a good move but I am suprised that this route makes it into the Italian (Bernadi) selective guide. The route was packed with Italians as well.

with Jamie
Jamie Simpson ??/2006 AltLd O/S

Open route, very loose in places, actually nearly all of it. After some pitches there was this sort of vertical scree! Poor quality route, more of a scramble than a climb.

with Andy porter
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High IV-
Mid IV-
Low IV-
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set