Restricted Access
The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.
Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner. If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC. In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access.
Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property".
Rockfax Description
Slim grooves between Alyn Wall and Duelling Banjos lead to the shale band. Take the right side of the short rib above then climb the steep wall above on horizontals and good crimps to an easier finish. © Rockfax
FA. John Norman 2008. (Start) H.Walmsley, C.Calow 03/Jul/2019.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| harold walmsley | 5 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Anghofiedig (meaning Forgotten!) is the original name of the route that was called Mystery Wall before first ascent name and details were discovered | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Anghofiedig (meaning Forgotten!) is the original name of the route that was called Mystery Wall before first ascent name and details were discovered |
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| harold walmsley | 30 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: I torque checked all the (12 mm, non ss) bolts (runners and lower off) today, all passed at 50 Nm. I replaced the cluster of old seized up krabs in the lower-off with ss maillons and rings. I also removed the dodgy flake in the upper section (it only took about 10 s with a crowbar). I think this route should now be OK to do. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I torque checked all the (12 mm, non ss) bolts (runners and lower off) today, all passed at 50 Nm. I replaced the cluster of old seized up krabs in the lower-off with ss maillons and rings. I also removed the dodgy flake in the upper section (it only took about 10 s with a crowbar). I think this route should now be OK to do. |
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