Restricted Access
The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.
Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner. If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC. In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access.
Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property".
Rockfax Description
Start below the most prominent part of the overlap above the shale band. Weave up to the overlap, pull through and continue to the base of a right-facing groove. Climb the right wall of the groove to the upper overlap, move right and pass the final bolt right, left or directly. © Rockfax
FA. Mike Leahy 2016.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| harold walmsley | 5 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Mustard Gas is the original name of the route that was called Whodunnit before first ascent name and details were discovered. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Mustard Gas is the original name of the route that was called Whodunnit before first ascent name and details were discovered. |
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| harold walmsley | 22 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: I checked the bolts today by torquing them up and cleaned the route. The bolt below the shale band stuck out a long way and had to be packed out with washers before I could torque it up fully. With the washers it torqued up OK. The big "worryingly blocky" holds at the overlap just above the shaley band did not survive the cleaning process and were removed distressingly easily (a common theme with these older routes!). There are holds on the newly revealed rock behind the blocks and that section now climbs just a little harder. Some very hollow rock at the bottom was also easily dispensed with but the upper overlap, just below the crux, despite looking worryingly cracked, could not be moved in the slightest by either crowbar or Terrordactyl pick and remains as was. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I checked the bolts today by torquing them up and cleaned the route. The bolt below the shale band stuck out a long way and had to be packed out with washers before I could torque it up fully. With the washers it torqued up OK. The big "worryingly blocky" holds at the overlap just above the shaley band did not survive the cleaning process and were removed distressingly easily (a common theme with these older routes!). There are holds on the newly revealed rock behind the blocks and that section now climbs just a little harder. Some very hollow rock at the bottom was also easily dispensed with but the upper overlap, just below the crux, despite looking worryingly cracked, could not be moved in the slightest by either crowbar or Terrordactyl pick and remains as was. |
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| harold walmsley | 8 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Worryingly blocky holds at the overlaps but steady climbing except for the last moves. Probably should be cleaned a bit more but would the blocks at the overlaps survive a cleaning process? | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Worryingly blocky holds at the overlaps but steady climbing except for the last moves. Probably should be cleaned a bit more but would the blocks at the overlaps survive a cleaning process? |
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