Rockfax Description
The crack and chimney line on the right of the high, sloping ledge is a challenging but worthwhile pitch. Start on the high sloping ledge below the line. Good low nut on the left for a belay.
Climb up and right into the line and move up to below where the the crack widens and becomes rounded. Make some awkward moves to get started on the rounded section of the chimney before things ease towards the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
Phill_ Thompson 12/Jul Lead O/S
with Lucy Prins
Hidden 02/Jul Solo O/S
Rob Davies 29/May Lead

Trying to overcome wide crack phobia...

with Phil Ashton
Hidden 15/Apr Lead O/S
Robin Woodward 15/Apr Lead O/S

Not a particularly inspiring route, some good moves and enough gear (lots of big stuff). Started trying to head up the corner staircase on the far right of the sloping ledge, but soon realised this wasn't right and then headed up the correct start at the top of the ledge. The transition to the chimney was pretty straightforward.

Jenny Dart 15/Apr 2nd
with Robin
EllieWoods 17/Mar 2nd O/S
with Leo
graceefisher 02/Mar 2nd dog

First severe... had to stand on Aimee's arm.

Hidden 02/Mar Lead O/S
Gympaul 29/Dec/16 Solo
Raggar 01/Oct/16 2nd
with Ian M, Jon B
Hidden 08/Sep/16 2nd O/S
gillyml 25/Aug/16 2nd
NeilHowarth 16/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
rbond55 08/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Alex Wade 13/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/16 2nd β
JakeB. 06/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with CUCCC
Bob M 19/Sep/15 2nd
K_Maywood 27/Aug/15 AltLd
ChrisGard 27/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

With Dean

Steve Lenartowicz 23/Jun/15 Lead
with Clare
Marti999 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 07/May/15 2nd
JohnBotham 07/May/15 2nd
Hidden 07/May/15 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Gentleman Joe 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S

'Character building' Fairly awkward and thrutchy, rock fairly loose and some bits looked a bit fallen down. Crag also had a fairly 'interesting' walk in (big drops between boulders).

Rob Morgan 04/Apr/15 2nd
with Louis, Win
jhb0510 04/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Mike Weare
timreynolds 04/May/14 Lead
with Simon
DaveGoesClimbing 03/May/14 Lead O/S

This seemed high in the grade but that was probably because the rock was a bit crumbly

arandall 22/Nov/13 Solo O/S
JoeCoxson 22/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Easy lead, didn't need much gear. Good warm up.

Wendy Watthews 22/Nov/13 2nd rpt
with joe c
MazElden 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Will Gordon 27/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hamish777 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Andrea
andrea83 23/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Hamish
jhb0510 19/May/13 2nd O/S
with Dave Webster
perranman 19/May/13 -
whiteexplorer 26/Apr/13 2nd O/S

as Rowland Edwards book 'Cornish Rock' says "they don't teach you this on climbing walls" it requires a range of unique moves to climb this route .Great fun ,if a bit painful as i had to jamb my hands against the side to stop a slip turning into a fall

with Dilwat
Dilwat 26/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Chimney is a bit bold for severe but its great climbing.

with Tom M
rockpool 06/Apr/13 2nd
with wendy mathews
Ashley Hold 06/Apr/13 -
with Tim Chamberlain
Wendy Watthews 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
jarodbishop 08/Sep/12 AltLd
Luxulyan ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kev Brown
nickdonohue ?/Aug/12 Lead
with Peter Hart
Peter Reynolds ?/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
RockaJo 08/Apr/12 2nd β

A pretty tricky second half into the chimney and getting off the route.

with Rich Morgan
tiffanykate12 06/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 08/Oct/11 2nd
with Sarah Flint, Rob Horler
mikeydee135 11/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Goater, Fletch
mike hooper 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
paul horabin 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S
fi15 ?/Aug/11 2nd
BALD EAGLE 23/Apr/11 Lead
with Rob Horler
Hidden 23/Apr/11 2nd
spragglerocks 03/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hoyes 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Batt 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Bad route sketch in new rockfax!! Shows start up VS which has nearly no gear. Start to right, NOT up VS!! Pretty awkward for 4a but plenty of runners.

royal 31/Jul/10 TR O/S

Self belay on prussuk'd ab rope

nickstephens 05/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Out climbing with the Jones' (we did start a little to the left and traversed a little into the chimney if we are going to be fussy about routes)

with Sally Jones, Nancy Jones, Peter Jones
dpe 03/Aug/09 2nd
with Dave
Hidden 03/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Dizz 24/May/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead
Alaric 28/May/07 Lead O/S
with Neil
SurferStan 21/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Dilwat
Dilwat 21/Jul/06 2nd O/S

A chance to test my bridging skills... or lack of them.

Hidden 12/Aug/01 2nd
Rog Wilko ?/Apr/97 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
auld al ?/Apr/96 AltLd O/S
RichardMc 29/Mar/86 AltLd
with Steve Gould
Nigel Bond 02/Sep/81 Solo
Dave Musgrove 06/Jun/71 Solo
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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 10
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set