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Avoid the crag after rain - the porous rock absorbs water causing holds to become brittle. The top tier bouldering normally dries fastest and is exposed to any wind going.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully as you look in, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence. 

Peregrine chicks were confirmed in 2022, 2023 was less clear and we're checking the situation for 2024. The site is actively monitored by local bird groups, please avoid until the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge. Peregrines are a protected species covered by criminal law.

Rockfax Description
Head up the cracked groove to a ledge then move lef and climb an open groove to a final tricky mantel. A more direct finish is easier but less interesting. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
SuperLee1985 29 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The line described in Rockfax is not climbable in it's current condition as the left hand groove is entirely full of grass and won't provide holds or gear placements without extensive gardening. The direct is still viable although you need to finish up the corner groove, as the top is very overgrown and gritty. The walk off is also very overgrown with gorse and a is a prickly and painful endeavour.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The line described in Rockfax is not climbable in it's current condition as the left hand groove is entirely full of grass and won't provide holds or gear placements without extensive gardening. The direct is still viable although you need to finish up the corner groove, as the top is very overgrown and gritty. The walk off is also very overgrown with gorse and a is a prickly and painful endeavour.

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