UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.

Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner.  If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC.  In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access. 

Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property". 

 

20m.

Rockfax Description
The wall, overlap, groove and upper rib between Duelling Banjos and Mustard Gas. © Rockfax

FA. H.Walmsley, R.Davies 13/Jul/2019.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Christheclimber 31 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Not particularly loose or dirty at the top if climbed directly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not particularly loose or dirty at the top if climbed directly.
liamhughes1981 6 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Top section is unpleasantly loose and sandy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top section is unpleasantly loose and sandy.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Borderline

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Trevor Quarry)

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