Restricted Access
The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.
Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner. If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC. In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access.
Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property".
Rockfax Description
A right hand variation to Professor Plumb up the crest of the rib. Follow Professor Plumb past its first two bolts to the top of the second borehole. Step right and climb the rib, steeply at first, passing the second ledge on In the Pandy. Easy ground leads past an overlap then there are airy moves back left to the Professor Plumb lower-off. © Rockfax
FA. H.Walmsley, C.Calow 08/Aug/2019.
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Logged Ascents
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Borderline
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Trevor Quarry)