The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.
Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner. If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC. In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access.
Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property".
Rockfax Description
Start about 2m right of With the Crowbar. Gain a ledge, bridge the shallow scoop above and continue directly (Keep left of the 3rd bolt: an unused drill hole shows the line. The bolt is placed right of the line for the solidest rock) to a second ledge. Climb the wall on the right to a V-notch. © Rockfax
FA. H.Walmsley, C.Calow 08/Aug/2019.
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