Restricted Access
The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.
Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner. If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC. In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access.
Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property".
Rockfax Description
An interesting climb up the groove and wall between The Needle and Honorary Horseshoe. Start directly below the groove. Gain the groove via a cleaned ledge in the shale band. Get stood on the big hold on the right rib then climb the rib and short crack to a ledge. Start the upper wall on the left, move right then up the wall directly to a finishing groove just left of Honorary Horseshoe. © Rockfax
FA. H.Walmsley 17/Aug/2019.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| gazj1986 | 8 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: A couple of falls and rests first attempt (first route of the day and damp). Second attempt got it clean once I knew which holds to aim for to clip. Tough one to on site | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A couple of falls and rests first attempt (first route of the day and damp). Second attempt got it clean once I knew which holds to aim for to clip. Tough one to on site |
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| Rob Davies | 11 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: User-friendly bolting | ||
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Show beta
βeta: User-friendly bolting |
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Logged Ascents
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Borderline
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Trevor Quarry)