700m. The North Ridge starts next to where the Son Kul river turns its final corner and enters the canyon heading south. Follow the ridge form here with easy walking and exposed scrambling with magnificent views west and 600m straight down into the canyon. The ridge then changes completely as it steepens with a great wall and buttress above (this is also where the ‘First Rib’ finishes and joins the North Ridge). Stay on the crest of the ridge and climb first some steep steps and then the buttress directly via cracks and corners for 4 pitches – great exposed climbing on fantastic rock leads to more broken and easier ground above. Easy scrambling on the crest of the ridge leads to the first and North summit. From the North summit walk across the summit plateau on grass towards the higher South summit (Pk Korgo) which is reached by easy but exposed scrambling.

Nelhams/Taylor/Plackett/Clifford/Dudek 2009.

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