UKC

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WARNING- (see comments) The semi-detached boss at the left of the crag is moving away and will eventually fall apart. Please DO NOT climb or hang on it - if you pull it off, it could kill you.

No problems with access. From Edinburgh head to Blackford hill. The quarry can be found on the south side besides Blackford Glen.
Park either in the Edinburgh Observatory car park, on Braid Hills drive or on Blackford Glen Road - park in designated areas, don't block the access to the farms and to Edinburgh Council waste centre.

AKA 'The Crack variation' in Bouldering in Scotland guidebook.
Sit start on crimps at the groove in middle of the crag and tackle centre line of jugs behind the big flake ('Groove crack'). Keep traversing left to reach jugs high above on the left side.
Top out optional (Descent via small path at the top of the crag).

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