300m. Several years ago a small block fell off the crux which already had a reputation for being hard. Now it is nails (hence the increase from the traditional grade III), although short and well protected. A good expedition of a route!

Ticklists: In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, 3 star Scottish winter.

Hidden 24/Dec/18 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams 09/Dec/18 AltLd O/S

Nice route. Plan C, as crucial turf on steeper routes wasn't frozen

with Gordon Lacey
Gordon Lacey 09/Dec/18 AltLd
with Neil Adams
malone 11/Feb/18 AltLd
with Mike Cross
Hidden 26/Jan/18 -
Clevelandclimber 26/Jan/18 AltLd

Not great conditions. Grade III with a real stopper tech 6? crux.

with Paul Ramsden, Guy Buckingham
sadams 20/Jan/18 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
Gawyllie 10/Jan/18 AltLd
with mrbird
mrbird 10/Jan/18 AltLd O/S


Hidden 07/Jan/18 AltLd dnf
glenngordon 26/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

All rimed up, excellent turf conditions. Right place, right time. Sweet!

with gregor
GMohr 26/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
Gawyllie 09/Mar/16 AltLd
with Raz
carr0t 09/Mar/16 -

fantastic route in good condition. 2 tricky sections, one at the crux and a second at the small tower. both quite mean, but well protected. At the tower there is a block with a gap behind it. Taking a step up onto it then onward through the right side wide crack. digging there and just below reveals 2 steps and excellent protection. do not attempt to move out to the left over the slab. This bit can also be avoided as per the guidebook.

Sophie Nunn 27/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
with Neilaw, Floris
scottmarcberry 27/Feb/16 AltLd

A nice route in good conditions. Solo'd up to the overhang. Great mixed climbing on the second pitch, but short lived. Then easily pitched to the summit. A bonus of having no cornice to contend with after 300m.

ned_85 27/Feb/16 AltLd
with Scott Marc Berry
R Brown 26/Feb/16 2nd

Lots of powder

with Sammi Rogers, A. Green
Hidden 26/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Dougbart 06/Feb/16 AltLd

Verry nice, solid to crux. Good crux moves. Turf was really nice

with Tom
tomdude 06/Feb/16 AltLd

Very nice - first time at Lochnagar! Solo to crux and easier after. Went up and right rather than to buttress crest, nice climbing

with Doug Bartholomew
hamish2016 05/Feb/16 Lead
with Ollie Ross
OliverRoss 05/Feb/16 2nd
with Hamish Dunn
Hidden ?/Feb/16 AltLd
Samantha Dickson 14/Dec/15 2nd O/S
with Tom Shaw
Hidden 14/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/15 AltLd
Hidden 04/Mar/15 AltLd
benclimbing 26/Jan/15 Lead O/S
jonskippy 26/Jan/15 2nd β
Tim_Gomersall 19/Dec/14 AltLd
with Callum johnson
Hidden 19/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
MSchobitz 09/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Great route, currently covered in snow. Barely any gear, lots of digging, but still great climbing. The descent turned into a bit of an epic. Blizzard, white-out and nightfall hit as we topped out. Loss of map, compass and sense of direction did not help. Luckily found some tracks and ended up at the bothy next to Loch Muick. Reached the car park and our tent 20 hours after leaving.

benkelsey 09/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

big day. epic walk in with realllly strong winds. lots of powder on the route, making gear really hard to find and the whole thing very hard work. Lead pitches 1,3,4,6, with mikey smashing his pitches. Pitch 3 was incredible inch deep commiting neve getting further away from the last runner and any potential runners. great sense of satisfaction to be in such a cool place climbing such cool features. We had to traverse around a massive cornice by doing a long traverse left and finding a small part. Got to the top at dusk, promptly dropped the map which sped off into the total white out blizzard. oops. lucky to find some tracks and follow them down to the other end of loch muik. Everything to search for in a Scottish winter route! probably more like V,4 on the day

Elsier 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Lots of crusty and soft snow made it hard work. Adrian lead the crux pitch via the chimney to the right, rather than waiting for the team ahead, very strenuous but good fun. Then I got off route, heading too far to the right above and onto some desperately hard slabby corners covered in powder with no gear- very scary! Long day- finished in the dark!

with AdrianC
david0811 11/Jan/14 AltLd

Good route but tough conditions. Crux was very hard. Well done to Dave for leading that pitch. Another long day out on Lochnagar

with debbie, MrRiley
Debbie Lee 11/Jan/14 AltLd
with Dave Marshall, MrRiley
MrRiley 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Very challenging conditions - crud and icy cracks but a long and interesting expedition nonetheless. The crux is very very hard for a tech 5 and should probably get 6 but it's a brilliant and committing series of moves to rock over left on to the small ledge. Classic!

jonnie3430 07/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Soloed to crux, lead it clean, there is 3 insitu wires and a sling for aid if required. Soloed after to crest of ridge and Carol led a good pitch just off crest to right before a final 60m pitch took us to the top. Good route.

with Vikki, Carol
Carol Goodall 07/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Great route although very hard crux which I have to admit hooking a carbine on the in-situ gear for aid. Jonnie led it clean though. Next pitch up the ridge was fun and I made it thrutchy. Protected from strong W wind all day until we topped out. Good solid turf where needed most of the time.

with Vicky Culshaw, jonnie3430
Jon_dL 16/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Grand, long mountaineering route. We had good weather, but poor suggary snow. Chuffed lead on chimney crux variation (tech5) quite tricky, recommend it! Then wandered up right over some interesting steps onto Giant's Head Chimney before climbing back onto the buttress at sunset. Last two pitches in the moon dark to strong winds on summit. Back in the bothy for 10 and a dram.

ig248 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Kirill
Captain Solo 02/Feb/13 AltLd

Bit concerned about the amount of snow on the roads the night before but managed to get up Glen Muick and give it a go. Older snow firmed up on the walk in and a few folk breaking trail so not too bad. Surprised to see Shadow A free so decided to give it a go, a day to stay out the gullies. Plenty of snow and good turf, managed the crux first time but felt 'out there'. Continued interest to the top, glad to do one of the 'harder' routes at last after 3 solo trips.

with ontour
Kirill 02/Feb/13 AltLd

Led the crux, also took alternative line up a steep corner on P5 for a bit more value. Didn't bother to look at the map on the way back and went the wrong way, resulting in extra 1h30min of wandering in the dark. Numpties.

with ig248
Uisdean hawthorn 13/Jan/13 -
StuMsg 13/Jan/13 2nd
Plungeman 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Led p1, soloed some, Uisdean the rest. Frozen turf and good hooks. Not much ice about. Hell of a crux!

alasdair19 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
CacCarnBeag 15/Dec/12 AltLd

A nice route, but surely not 3 stars...

with adw07
Hidden 15/Dec/12 AltLd
Lamb 19/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Joel took the Hollywood crux. Cracking crux. III,6 would seem fair.

with Joel Paterson
John Workman 05/Feb/12 AltLd

The route notes say. "the crux is nails". I wholeheartedly agree. It felt like tech 6 to me even with the assistance of the insitu wires. The guide book would lead you to believe that its III using the aid. Many grade III leaders have abbed off I'd guess - judging by the insitu tat.

with Chris D
BallsOfSteel 31/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Duncan took the terrace pitch as his first winter lead. good crux!

with duncan osgood
Hidden 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
MarcusP 29/Jan/12 AltLd

Mix of soloing, and swapping off leads, popped off seconding the crux. Brilliant route!

with Emily
Hidden 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

crux and then took the final tower direct

spoony84 28/Jan/12 AltLd

first winter route of the season, enjoyed it but a little rusty!

with john sellers, darren lemal
rob1 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with Simon Lambert
mike.moss 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jan/11 -
Hidden 03/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 24/Dec/10 AltLd rpt
michael83 24/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Interesting crux, left me perplexed for a little while!

with Mark
Brendan 25/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Soloed first pitch, Paul led crux. Turf was nicely frozen but the weather was rotten, we got soaked.

with Andy, Paul
abbeywall 13/Mar/10 AltLd
with K, FM
JasonK 13/Feb/10 AltLd
with shugsan
shugsan 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Nice route, tricky crux and entertaining all the way up.

with JasonK
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden 28/Dec/09 AltLd
SWalls 28/Dec/09 AltLd
Dangerous Dave 27/Dec/09 AltLd rpt

Loads of snow hard walk in. Hard to find gear. Was a good route to salvage the day! This route is grade III with a one move wonder crux of about grade 5 that is super well protected.

with Stevos
Hidden 21/Dec/09 AltLd
Hidden 07/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Pete Main 07/Mar/09 AltLd

Wicked route it's got everything,turf,snow, ice and rock. Highly recommended

with Andrew S
Hidden 15/Feb/09 AltLd dnf
Hidden 15/Feb/09 AltLd dnf
Hidden 01/Feb/09 AltLd
k2scott ??/2009 -
innes ??/2009 Lead
windy100 ??/2009 -
francois ??/2009 2nd
with Gunnar
AndyP 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

A voyage up Lochnagar. A great route up a varied and occasionally exposed buttress. We did the 'Bells Route' start which is a much better start to the route (I've now done both) which is sustained at III and poorly protected until the last 7 or so metres which is IV but with gear. Second pitch is easy II until the crux, which is a classic. A hard move up and out left into the unseen onto a small ledge. It is well protected with plenty of in-situ gear but it is still a leap of (blind) faith. I slotted my right pick into the top nut as an insurance policy for the big move in case I peeled off as the peg mentioned in the guide is not there so the move has to be done clean like it or not. I didn't peel. The next pitch is easy although Will was keen to make up for missing the crux lead by climbing a wall on the right almost as hard before getting back on route. A yellow chopper took great interest in us as we climbed the crest, its the only time I've smelt exhaust fumes on a 300m route. The tower at the top looks good and Will was keen to take it on but it was too late in the day, it was getting dark and our gear was frozen. I abbed off this route in 1999 at the crux as the rockfall was unknown at that time, I may have been the first, or one of the first, to make this surprise discovery and it came as a bit of a shock back then so it was good to finish the route 9 years later. All in all a top quality route, three stars for sure.

with Will
Hidden 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 18/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Really good route, longand interesting, tower variation at the top is worth doing too.

with scotty burnett
Hidden 02/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
s kennedy 02/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with mark mosgrove
John HW 06/Jan/08 AltLd
with Cath
smac ??/2008 -
gregor ??/2006 -
niall_mac ?/Mar/05 AltLd
with Emmett
Hidden ?/Jan/05 AltLd
Yourlead 24/Mar/04 AltLd

Bailed off 1stpitch of Bells Route V6 on Shadow B. Soloed 1st pitch then Graham led next 2 x pitchs then alt leads

with Graham Penny
Dangerous Dave ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jan/03 AltLd
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
James Gordon ?/Mar/02 -
dunx55 ??/2002 AltLd
dunx55 ??/2002 AltLd O/S
steveP ?/Mar/00 AltLd dnf

Failed at technical crux (site of rockfall) and abseiled off beside Moonshadow. Doh!

with Frank Popham
el diablo 26/Feb/00 AltLd dnf
with IanMcC
IanMcC 26/Feb/00 AltLd dnf

"Climb, Des".

graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Yourlead 27/Nov/99 AltLd

Very stormy weather deteriating - Not rally in nick and very lean!

with Graham Penny
AndyP 09/Jan/99 AltLd dnf

Abbed off 4th pitch due to new crux (tech. 5/6?) exposed by recent stonefall- probably this year. Too late in the day.

with Jamie
Tarquin ??/1999 -
oor wullie ??/1999 -

climbed 3 times (i think)

Ali MacDonald 18/Apr/98 Lead O/S

RAF MRT Training

with Scot
Hidden ?/Feb/98 -
QuicNic ??/1998 Lead

Taking a friend with little winter climbing experience so led every pitch. Crux was very hard and I fell before realising an adze jam was the trick (felt harder than anything on Eagle Ridge but is only 1 move). Rest was in good condition with good snow/ice to the top and pretty straight forward.

phardman 22/Feb/97 AltLd O/S
with Muir Morton
nickcanute ?/Mar/96 AltLd
with keith bolton
Colin McKerrell ??/1996 -
Hidden 20/Feb/95 AltLd
Richard Weller ?/Feb/95 Lead
with Ian Bryden
mark-abz ?/Feb/94 AltLd

Not sure of date or partner

with Bill S
Hidden ??/1994 -
ChrisMarden ??/1993 AltLd

With Mark Ryle.

Stuart S ?/Jan/92 AltLd
with Nigel Eastmond
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 01/Dec/90 AltLd O/S

Famous burst lip.

with James Turner
Neil McA 03/Feb/90 Lead O/S
with Tom Lewis
Steve Crowe 28/Jan/90 AltLd O/S
Bruce Kerr 04/Mar/89 AltLd
with Keith Turton
uphillnow 04/Apr/88 AltLd

Heavy cover of spring snow. Soloed most of route apart from crux

with charlie french
charlesmfrench 03/Apr/88 AltLd O/S


MikePycroft 18/Jan/88 AltLd
steveb2006 18/Jan/88 AltLd

Good climb in unconsolidated snow. Camping in the corrie

Hidden ??/1988 Solo
Stuart S ?/Feb/87 Lead O/S
with Hal Taylor
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High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 21
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set