300m. Several years ago a small block fell off the crux which already had a reputation for being hard. Now it is nails (hence the increase from the traditional grade III), although short and well protected. A good expedition of a route!

Ticklists

In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, 3 star Scottish winter

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 24 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams 9 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S Nice route. Plan C, as crucial turf on steeper routes wasn't frozen
with Gordon Lacey
Nice route. Plan C, as crucial turf on steeper routes wasn't frozen
with Gordon Lacey
Gordon Lacey 9 Dec, 2018 AltLd
with Neil Adams
with Neil Adams
malone 11 Feb, 2018 AltLd
with Mike Cross
with Mike Cross
Hidden 26 Jan, 2018 -
Clevelandclimber 26 Jan, 2018 AltLd Not great conditions. Grade III with a real stopper tech 6? crux.
with Paul Ramsden, Guy Buckingham
Not great conditions. Grade III with a real stopper tech 6? crux.
with Paul Ramsden, Guy Buckingham
sadams 20 Jan, 2018 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
Gawyllie 10 Jan, 2018 AltLd
with mrbird
with mrbird
mrbird 10 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S Ace.
Ace.
Hidden 7 Jan, 2018 AltLd dnf
glenngordon 26 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S All rimed up, excellent turf conditions. Right place, right time. Sweet!
with gregor
All rimed up, excellent turf conditions. Right place, right time. Sweet!
with gregor
GMohr 26 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
Gawyllie 9 Mar, 2016 AltLd
with carr0t
with carr0t
carr0t 9 Mar, 2016 - fantastic route in good condition. 2 tricky sections, one at the crux and a second at the small tower. both quite mean, but well protected. At the tower there is a block with a gap behind it. Taking a step up onto it then onward through the right side wide crack. digging there and just below reveals 2 steps and excellent protection. do not attempt to move out to the left over the slab. This bit can also be avoided as per the guidebook.
fantastic route in good condition. 2 tricky sections, one at the crux and a second at the small tower. both quite mean, but well protected. At the tower there is a block with a gap behind it. Taking a step up onto it then onward through the right side wide crack. digging there and just below reveals 2 steps and excellent protection. do not attempt to move out to the left over the slab. This bit can also be avoided as per the guidebook.
Sophie Nunn 27 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Neilaw, Floris
with Neilaw, Floris
scottmarcberry 27 Feb, 2016 AltLd A nice route in good conditions. Solo'd up to the overhang. Great mixed climbing on the second pitch, but short lived. Then easily pitched to the summit. A bonus of having no cornice to contend with after 300m.
A nice route in good conditions. Solo'd up to the overhang. Great mixed climbing on the second pitch, but short lived. Then easily pitched to the summit. A bonus of having no cornice to contend with after 300m.
ned_85 27 Feb, 2016 AltLd
with Scott Marc Berry
with Scott Marc Berry
Hidden 26 Feb, 2016 2nd
Hidden 26 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
Dougbart 6 Feb, 2016 AltLd Verry nice, solid to crux. Good crux moves. Turf was really nice
with Tom
Verry nice, solid to crux. Good crux moves. Turf was really nice
with Tom
tomdude 6 Feb, 2016 AltLd Very nice - first time at Lochnagar! Solo to crux and easier after. Went up and right rather than to buttress crest, nice climbing
with Doug Bartholomew
Very nice - first time at Lochnagar! Solo to crux and easier after. Went up and right rather than to buttress crest, nice climbing
with Doug Bartholomew
hamish2016 5 Feb, 2016 Lead
with Ollie Ross
with Ollie Ross
OliverRoss 5 Feb, 2016 2nd
with Hamish Dunn
with Hamish Dunn
Hidden ?Feb, 2016 AltLd
Samantha Dickson 14 Dec, 2015 2nd O/S
with Tom Shaw
with Tom Shaw
Hidden 14 Dec, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Apr, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 4 Mar, 2015 AltLd
benclimbing 26 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S
jonskippy 26 Jan, 2015 2nd β
Tim_Gomersall 19 Dec, 2014 AltLd
with Callum johnson
with Callum johnson
Hidden 19 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
MSchobitz 9 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S Great route, currently covered in snow. Barely any gear, lots of digging, but still great climbing. The descent turned into a bit of an epic. Blizzard, white-out and nightfall hit as we topped out. Loss of map, compass and sense of direction did not help. Luckily found some tracks and ended up at the bothy next to Loch Muick. Reached the car park and our tent 20 hours after leaving.
Great route, currently covered in snow. Barely any gear, lots of digging, but still great climbing. The descent turned into a bit of an epic. Blizzard, white-out and nightfall hit as we topped out. Loss of map, compass and sense of direction did not help. Luckily found some tracks and ended up at the bothy next to Loch Muick. Reached the car park and our tent 20 hours after leaving.
benkelsey 9 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S big day. epic walk in with realllly strong winds. lots of powder on the route, making gear really hard to find and the whole thing very hard work. Lead pitches 1,3,4,6, with mikey smashing his pitches. Pitch 3 was incredible inch deep commiting neve getting further away from the last runner and any potential runners. great sense of satisfaction to be in such a cool place climbing such cool features. We had to traverse around a massive cornice by doing a long traverse left and finding a small part. Got to the top at dusk, promptly dropped the map which sped off into the total white out blizzard. oops. lucky to find some tracks and follow them down to the other end of loch muik. Everything to search for in a Scottish winter route! probably more like V,4 on the day
big day. epic walk in with realllly strong winds. lots of powder on the route, making gear really hard to find and the whole thing very hard work. Lead pitches 1,3,4,6, with mikey smashing his pitches. Pitch 3 was incredible inch deep commiting neve getting further away from the last runner and any potential runners. great sense of satisfaction to be in such a cool place climbing such cool features. We had to traverse around a massive cornice by doing a long traverse left and finding a small part. Got to the top at dusk, promptly dropped the map which sped off into the total white out blizzard. oops. lucky to find some tracks and follow them down to the other end of loch muik. Everything to search for in a Scottish winter route! probably more like V,4 on the day
Elsier 11 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S Lots of crusty and soft snow made it hard work. Adrian lead the crux pitch via the chimney to the right, rather than waiting for the team ahead, very strenuous but good fun. Then I got off route, heading too far to the right above and onto some desperately hard slabby corners covered in powder with no gear- very scary! Long day- finished in the dark!
with AdrianC
Lots of crusty and soft snow made it hard work. Adrian lead the crux pitch via the chimney to the right, rather than waiting for the team ahead, very strenuous but good fun. Then I got off route, heading too far to the right above and onto some desperately hard slabby corners covered in powder with no gear- very scary! Long day- finished in the dark!
with AdrianC
david0811 11 Jan, 2014 AltLd Good route but tough conditions. Crux was very hard. Well done to Dave for leading that pitch. Another long day out on Lochnagar
with debbie, MrRiley
Good route but tough conditions. Crux was very hard. Well done to Dave for leading that pitch. Another long day out on Lochnagar
with debbie, MrRiley
Debbie Lee 11 Jan, 2014 AltLd
with Dave Marshall, MrRiley
with Dave Marshall, MrRiley
MrRiley 11 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S Very challenging conditions - crud and icy cracks but a long and interesting expedition nonetheless. The crux is very very hard for a tech 5 and should probably get 6 but it's a brilliant and committing series of moves to rock over left on to the small ledge. Classic!
Very challenging conditions - crud and icy cracks but a long and interesting expedition nonetheless. The crux is very very hard for a tech 5 and should probably get 6 but it's a brilliant and committing series of moves to rock over left on to the small ledge. Classic!
jonnie3430 7 Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S Soloed to crux, lead it clean, there is 3 insitu wires and a sling for aid if required. Soloed after to crest of ridge and Carol led a good pitch just off crest to right before a final 60m pitch took us to the top. Good route.
with Vikki, Carol
Soloed to crux, lead it clean, there is 3 insitu wires and a sling for aid if required. Soloed after to crest of ridge and Carol led a good pitch just off crest to right before a final 60m pitch took us to the top. Good route.
with Vikki, Carol
Carol Goodall 7 Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S Great route although very hard crux which I have to admit hooking a carbine on the in-situ gear for aid. Jonnie led it clean though. Next pitch up the ridge was fun and I made it thrutchy. Protected from strong W wind all day until we topped out. Good solid turf where needed most of the time.
with Vicky Culshaw, jonnie3430
Great route although very hard crux which I have to admit hooking a carbine on the in-situ gear for aid. Jonnie led it clean though. Next pitch up the ridge was fun and I made it thrutchy. Protected from strong W wind all day until we topped out. Good solid turf where needed most of the time.
with Vicky Culshaw, jonnie3430
Jon de Leyser 16 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Grand, long mountaineering route. We had good weather, but poor suggary snow. Chuffed lead on chimney crux variation (tech5) quite tricky, recommend it! Then wandered up right over some interesting steps onto Giant's Head Chimney before climbing back onto the buttress at sunset. Last two pitches in the moon dark to strong winds on summit. Back in the bothy for 10 and a dram.
Grand, long mountaineering route. We had good weather, but poor suggary snow. Chuffed lead on chimney crux variation (tech5) quite tricky, recommend it! Then wandered up right over some interesting steps onto Giant's Head Chimney before climbing back onto the buttress at sunset. Last two pitches in the moon dark to strong winds on summit. Back in the bothy for 10 and a dram.
ig248 2 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Kirill
with Kirill
Captain Solo 2 Feb, 2013 AltLd Bit concerned about the amount of snow on the roads the night before but managed to get up Glen Muick and give it a go. Older snow firmed up on the walk in and a few folk breaking trail so not too bad. Surprised to see Shadow A free so decided to give it a go, a day to stay out the gullies. Plenty of snow and good turf, managed the crux first time but felt 'out there'. Continued interest to the top, glad to do one of the 'harder' routes at last after 3 solo trips.
with ontour
Bit concerned about the amount of snow on the roads the night before but managed to get up Glen Muick and give it a go. Older snow firmed up on the walk in and a few folk breaking trail so not too bad. Surprised to see Shadow A free so decided to give it a go, a day to stay out the gullies. Plenty of snow and good turf, managed the crux first time but felt 'out there'. Continued interest to the top, glad to do one of the 'harder' routes at last after 3 solo trips.
with ontour
Kirill 2 Feb, 2013 AltLd Led the crux, also took alternative line up a steep corner on P5 for a bit more value. Didn't bother to look at the map on the way back and went the wrong way, resulting in extra 1h30min of wandering in the dark. Numpties.
with ig248
Led the crux, also took alternative line up a steep corner on P5 for a bit more value. Didn't bother to look at the map on the way back and went the wrong way, resulting in extra 1h30min of wandering in the dark. Numpties.
with ig248
Uisdean hawthorn 13 Jan, 2013 -
StuMsg 13 Jan, 2013 2nd
Plungeman 13 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S Led p1, soloed some, Uisdean the rest. Frozen turf and good hooks. Not much ice about. Hell of a crux!
Led p1, soloed some, Uisdean the rest. Frozen turf and good hooks. Not much ice about. Hell of a crux!
alasdair19 ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
CacCarnBeag 15 Dec, 2012 AltLd A nice route, but surely not 3 stars...
with adw07
A nice route, but surely not 3 stars...
with adw07
Hidden 15 Dec, 2012 AltLd
Lamb 19 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Joel took the Hollywood crux. Cracking crux. III,6 would seem fair.
with Joel Paterson
Joel took the Hollywood crux. Cracking crux. III,6 would seem fair.
with Joel Paterson
John Workman 5 Feb, 2012 AltLd The route notes say. "the crux is nails". I wholeheartedly agree. It felt like tech 6 to me even with the assistance of the insitu wires. The guide book would lead you to believe that its III using the aid. Many grade III leaders have abbed off I'd guess - judging by the insitu tat.
with Chris D
The route notes say. "the crux is nails". I wholeheartedly agree. It felt like tech 6 to me even with the assistance of the insitu wires. The guide book would lead you to believe that its III using the aid. Many grade III leaders have abbed off I'd guess - judging by the insitu tat.
with Chris D
BallsOfSteel 31 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S Duncan took the terrace pitch as his first winter lead. good crux!
with duncan osgood
Duncan took the terrace pitch as his first winter lead. good crux!
with duncan osgood
Hidden 29 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
MarcusP 29 Jan, 2012 AltLd Mix of soloing, and swapping off leads, popped off seconding the crux. Brilliant route!
with Emily
Mix of soloing, and swapping off leads, popped off seconding the crux. Brilliant route!
with Emily
Ollie B 29 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Did crux roof, James did some variation to the right of the ridge at about IV,5
with J.Monypenny
Did crux roof, James did some variation to the right of the ridge at about IV,5
with J.Monypenny
Tom Livingstone 29 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S crux and then took the final tower direct
crux and then took the final tower direct
spoony84 28 Jan, 2012 AltLd first winter route of the season, enjoyed it but a little rusty!
with john sellers, darren lemal
first winter route of the season, enjoyed it but a little rusty!
with john sellers, darren lemal
rob1 12 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Simon Lambert
with Simon Lambert
mike.moss 12 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Jan, 2011 -
Hidden 3 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 24 Dec, 2010 AltLd rpt
michael83 24 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S Interesting crux, left me perplexed for a little while!
with Mark
Interesting crux, left me perplexed for a little while!
with Mark
Brendan 25 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S Soloed first pitch, Paul led crux. Turf was nicely frozen but the weather was rotten, we got soaked.
with Andy, Paul
Soloed first pitch, Paul led crux. Turf was nicely frozen but the weather was rotten, we got soaked.
with Andy, Paul
abbeywall 13 Mar, 2010 AltLd
with K, FM
with K, FM
JasonK 13 Feb, 2010 AltLd
with shugsan
with shugsan
shugsan 13 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S Nice route, tricky crux and entertaining all the way up.
with JasonK
Nice route, tricky crux and entertaining all the way up.
with JasonK
Hidden ??, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 28 Dec, 2009 AltLd
SWalls 28 Dec, 2009 AltLd
Dangerous Dave 27 Dec, 2009 AltLd rpt Loads of snow hard walk in. Hard to find gear. Was a good route to salvage the day! This route is grade III with a one move wonder crux of about grade 5 that is super well protected.
with Stevos
Loads of snow hard walk in. Hard to find gear. Was a good route to salvage the day! This route is grade III with a one move wonder crux of about grade 5 that is super well protected.
with Stevos
Hidden 21 Dec, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 7 Mar, 2009 AltLd O/S
Pete Main 7 Mar, 2009 AltLd Wicked route it's got everything,turf,snow, ice and rock. Highly recommended
with Andrew S
Wicked route it's got everything,turf,snow, ice and rock. Highly recommended
with Andrew S
Hidden 15 Feb, 2009 AltLd dnf
Hidden 15 Feb, 2009 AltLd dnf
Hidden 1 Feb, 2009 AltLd
k2scott ??, 2009 -
innes ??, 2009 Lead
windy100 ??, 2009 -
francois ??, 2009 2nd
with Gunnar
with Gunnar
AndyP 1 Nov, 2008 AltLd O/S A voyage up Lochnagar. A great route up a varied and occasionally exposed buttress. We did the 'Bells Route' start which is a much better start to the route (I've now done both) which is sustained at III and poorly protected until the last 7 or so metres which is IV but with gear. Second pitch is easy II until the crux, which is a classic. A hard move up and out left into the unseen onto a small ledge. It is well protected with plenty of in-situ gear but it is still a leap of (blind) faith. I slotted my right pick into the top nut as an insurance policy for the big move in case I peeled off as the peg mentioned in the guide is not there so the move has to be done clean like it or not. I didn't peel. The next pitch is easy although Will was keen to make up for missing the crux lead by climbing a wall on the right almost as hard before getting back on route. A yellow chopper took great interest in us as we climbed the crest, its the only time I've smelt exhaust fumes on a 300m route. The tower at the top looks good and Will was keen to take it on but it was too late in the day, it was getting dark and our gear was frozen. I abbed off this route in 1999 at the crux as the rockfall was unknown at that time, I may have been the first, or one of the first, to make this surprise discovery and it came as a bit of a shock back then so it was good to finish the route 9 years later. All in all a top quality route, three stars for sure.
with Will
A voyage up Lochnagar. A great route up a varied and occasionally exposed buttress. We did the 'Bells Route' start which is a much better start to the route (I've now done both) which is sustained at III and poorly protected until the last 7 or so metres which is IV but with gear. Second pitch is easy II until the crux, which is a classic. A hard move up and out left into the unseen onto a small ledge. It is well protected with plenty of in-situ gear but it is still a leap of (blind) faith. I slotted my right pick into the top nut as an insurance policy for the big move in case I peeled off as the peg mentioned in the guide is not there so the move has to be done clean like it or not. I didn't peel. The next pitch is easy although Will was keen to make up for missing the crux lead by climbing a wall on the right almost as hard before getting back on route. A yellow chopper took great interest in us as we climbed the crest, its the only time I've smelt exhaust fumes on a 300m route. The tower at the top looks good and Will was keen to take it on but it was too late in the day, it was getting dark and our gear was frozen. I abbed off this route in 1999 at the crux as the rockfall was unknown at that time, I may have been the first, or one of the first, to make this surprise discovery and it came as a bit of a shock back then so it was good to finish the route 9 years later. All in all a top quality route, three stars for sure.
with Will
Hidden 1 Nov, 2008 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 18 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S Really good route, longand interesting, tower variation at the top is worth doing too.
with scotty burnett
Really good route, longand interesting, tower variation at the top is worth doing too.
with scotty burnett
Hidden 2 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
s kennedy 2 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
with mark mosgrove
with mark mosgrove
John HW 6 Jan, 2008 AltLd
with Cath
with Cath
smac ??, 2008 -
gregor ??, 2006 -
niall_mac ?Mar, 2005 AltLd
with Emmett
with Emmett
Hidden ?Jan, 2005 AltLd
Yourlead 24 Mar, 2004 AltLd Bailed off 1stpitch of Bells Route V6 on Shadow B. Soloed 1st pitch then Graham led next 2 x pitchs then alt leads
with Graham Penny
Bailed off 1stpitch of Bells Route V6 on Shadow B. Soloed 1st pitch then Graham led next 2 x pitchs then alt leads
with Graham Penny
Dangerous Dave ??, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Jan, 2003 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead
James Gordon ?Mar, 2002 -
dunx55 ??, 2002 AltLd
dunx55 ??, 2002 AltLd O/S
steveP ?Mar, 2000 AltLd dnf Failed at technical crux (site of rockfall) and abseiled off beside Moonshadow. Doh!
with Frank Popham
Failed at technical crux (site of rockfall) and abseiled off beside Moonshadow. Doh!
with Frank Popham
el diablo 26 Feb, 2000 AltLd dnf
with IanMcC
with IanMcC
IanMcC 26 Feb, 2000 AltLd dnf "Climb, Des".
"Climb, Des".
graeme gatherer ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Yourlead 27 Nov, 1999 AltLd Very stormy weather deteriating - Not rally in nick and very lean!
with Graham Penny
Very stormy weather deteriating - Not rally in nick and very lean!
with Graham Penny
AndyP 9 Jan, 1999 AltLd dnf Abbed off 4th pitch due to new crux (tech. 5/6?) exposed by recent stonefall- probably this year. Too late in the day.
with Jamie
Abbed off 4th pitch due to new crux (tech. 5/6?) exposed by recent stonefall- probably this year. Too late in the day.
with Jamie
Tarquin ??, 1999 -
oor wullie ??, 1999 - climbed 3 times (i think)
climbed 3 times (i think)
Ali MacDonald 18 Apr, 1998 Lead O/S RAF MRT Training
with Scot
RAF MRT Training
with Scot
Hidden ?Feb, 1998 -
QuicNic ??, 1998 Lead Taking a friend with little winter climbing experience so led every pitch. Crux was very hard and I fell before realising an adze jam was the trick (felt harder than anything on Eagle Ridge but is only 1 move). Rest was in good condition with good snow/ice to the top and pretty straight forward.
Taking a friend with little winter climbing experience so led every pitch. Crux was very hard and I fell before realising an adze jam was the trick (felt harder than anything on Eagle Ridge but is only 1 move). Rest was in good condition with good snow/ice to the top and pretty straight forward.
phardman 22 Feb, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Muir Morton
with Muir Morton
nickcanute ?Mar, 1996 AltLd
with keith bolton
with keith bolton
Colin McKerrell ??, 1996 -
Hidden 20 Feb, 1995 AltLd
Richard Weller ?Feb, 1995 Lead
with Ian Bryden
with Ian Bryden
mark-abz ?Feb, 1994 AltLd Not sure of date or partner
with Bill S
Not sure of date or partner
with Bill S
Hidden ??, 1994 -
ChrisMarden ??, 1993 AltLd With Mark Ryle.
With Mark Ryle.
Stuart S ?Jan, 1992 AltLd
with Nigel Eastmond
with Nigel Eastmond
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 1 Dec, 1990 AltLd O/S Famous burst lip.
with James Turner
Famous burst lip.
with James Turner
Neil McA 3 Feb, 1990 Lead O/S
with Tom Lewis
with Tom Lewis
Steve Crowe 28 Jan, 1990 AltLd O/S
Bruce Kerr 4 Mar, 1989 AltLd
with Keith Turton
with Keith Turton
uphillnow 4 Apr, 1988 AltLd Heavy cover of spring snow. Soloed most of route apart from crux
with charlie french
Heavy cover of spring snow. Soloed most of route apart from crux
with charlie french
charlesmfrench 3 Apr, 1988 AltLd O/S S,2,L,2.
S,2,L,2.
MikePycroft 18 Jan, 1988 AltLd
steveb2006 18 Jan, 1988 AltLd Good climb in unconsolidated snow. Camping in the corrie
Good climb in unconsolidated snow. Camping in the corrie
Hidden ??, 1988 Solo
Stuart S ?Feb, 1987 Lead O/S
with Hal Taylor
with Hal Taylor
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 21
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set