MC 06/Mar/16 AltLd

Bottom pitch fat ice good top pitch steep unconsolidated snow, wouldn't like to have fallen.

with Phil Whitfield
Plungeman 06/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Lead to the middle of the snow field on 70m ropes (which conveniently kept us out of the way of the teams ahead and behind), with Dave leading the ever taller step onto the upper section - superb hooks on the left. First time on steep ice in a few years meant interesting mind games for me!

with Dave S
buffalo606 06/Mar/16 AltLd
David Stevens 06/Mar/16 AltLd
Robertgiddy 05/Mar/16 Lead

Decent climb in decent nick, rock belays good but required excavation, didn't find any rock runners! With Emma on the GUMC Ballater meet.

ESmith 05/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Rob
scottmarcberry 28/Feb/16 AltLd

Great steep ice pitches with great turf. Neil did an awesome job leading the hard, steep ice pitches. A little powdery between belays. Hard to find a belay in the final gully after the second good ice pitch. Had to build a bucket belay & attack the cornice head on. The approach to the cornice had patchy ice on the left then turned into steep & near vertical chossy snow. Feet placements kept collapsing with each axe placements ripping through powder with an inconvenient bulge at hip height. Eventually hacked away & committed to pulling up on very poor feet & even poorer axes. I had to pray they didn't rip & pull myself onto a thin shelf with the cornice overhanging & squeeze through a crawl space. Eventually stood up & threw my axes into the bomber neve on the summit. An exposed, run out, incredibly chossy & quite scary last pitch...awesome!

ned_85 28/Feb/16 AltLd
with Scott Marc Berry
Elastic Jones 25/Feb/16 AltLd rpt

Took the crux this time,,,

with Alistair
Hidden 10/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Feb/16 AltLd
hamish2016 06/Feb/16 Lead

Drowning in spindrift!

with Ollie Ross
OliverRoss 06/Feb/16 2nd O/S

Lots of spindrift!

mountain musher ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 -
adie84 17/Mar/15 -
The Grist 15/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Soft for the grade with decent enough protection. A good alpine day out.

with Nick Allsop
masa-alpin 14/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

We placed 2 poor screws in the entire route. Not much rock gear either. Very serious – VI 5 in today's conditions. Ice or reasonable neve was there, turfs well frozen, and the weather was gorgeous. The temperature has never been above freezing all day from carpark to carpark. I lead P1 (60m) and P3 (70m), Misha did P2 (60m).

with Misha
Misha 14/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
with Masa
abbeywall 21/Feb/15 AltLd

First pitch rather cruddy, stepped out and lacking in protection

with RD, RL
michael83 21/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Straightforward, 3x60m pitches, led 1&3. Gear where needed.

Hidden 21/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/15 AltLd
alexm198 20/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Went to climb Parallel B, were beaten to it! Lead pitches 1 and 3. Team in front moving very slowly so there was a fair bit of waiting around. Very soft for grade V, felt like a IV with basically no gear.

drsdave 16/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Soloed up to the ice cave then belayed. Sketchy start with little protection up to the ice cave. Not a V more a technical 4

with Neil Mackie
Hidden 15/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
AndyL 15/Feb/15 AltLd

Just lead the easy pitches

Little AndyH 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Craig Holden 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Good but rather soft as it was stepped out.

with Alex Toomey
Hidden 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
annep11 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Led just the easy middle pitch. Good rock belays on every pitch but not much gear in between.

Liam Ingram 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Finally a successful route on Lochnagar. Led the difficult pitches. First pitch very bold and thin.

Hidden 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
alex toomey 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

stepped out

peter.herd 11/Feb/15 AltLd
with Steven A
Steven Andrews 11/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Bit of a cruddy first pitch added to the excitement but a classic gully climb.

with Pete
Captain Solo 07/Feb/15 AltLd

Slightly cruddy top layer on first pitch but good ice and neve after that, no cornice issues, up in no time.

with Brian
saintlade ??/2014 -
yesbutnobutyesbut ??/2014 -
prcleary ??/2014 -
Simon Yearsley 03/Mar/13 AltLd
Malcolm Bass 03/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Beautiful day. Zero degrees at car park at 6 am. We kept above freezing level all day except for 15 mins at bottom of first pitch when there was slight dripping. Whole route iced, but sections on un transformed snow needed care. The first step on straight up way above belay on P3 was unconsiolidated, but great mixed moves up left wall (5) got us back. onto the ice. Rest of P3 in great nick. Cornice pitch soft snow.

with Simon Yearsley
telemarker 24/Feb/13 AltLd dnf

Bailed as there was zero ice. Very poor conditions.

with Dave Douglas, Paul Freudenthal
Dave Douglas 24/Feb/13 Lead dnf

What no ice, retreated with tails between legs!!

ig248 02/Feb/13 Lead dnf

Loose snow

with Kirill
Kirill 02/Feb/13 AltLd dnf

Ran away to fight another day

with Igor
AC1 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Ollie B 28/Jan/12 Lead dnf

Did P1 and abbed off, very thin with little gear after belay tat (did attempt to continue). Did moonshadow instead.

with J.Monypenny
James Smith 23/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

very thin in places, needing a bold and delicate approach to not bash all the ice away! climbing not technically hard though so soft touch for the grade.

with stu, sam
Hidden ??/2012 -
Chris wilson 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Scottish winter climbing as it should be, blue skies/warm sun but with good neve/ice and even an easy exit already carved through the cornice.

with Jon B
Ian Jones 03/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Nowhere near grade V. Pitch one is IV 4, pitch three is III 3! Protection is fine. The runout section is II. Don't know why this is in 'Cold Climbs'.

Lamb 01/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! Sooperb day on the hill! Good ice although not smashing for screws, lovely chewy stuff! Ideal.

with Joel Paterson, Stephen
Stephen18 01/Mar/11 AltLd
Chris L Hill 27/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Easier than V in todays condition - excellent climb, great ice.

with Gwilym, Simon Pearce
morsy 27/Feb/11 AltLd

Great route

with gerhard mors
sparbus 06/Feb/11 AltLd
with mike b
mark88 29/Jan/11 AltLd
with Joey Durkin
rob1 29/Jan/11 AltLd
with drew
joeydurkin 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Mark P
Hidden 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
John Workman 23/Jan/11 Lead
with Apprentice
tebs 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Climbed the 1st 2 pitches of Eagle Ridge only to discover the crux completely devoid of snow and ice. A battle of conscience ensued and eventually the scottish ethic prevailed; we abbed off and did this instead. Not too hard but quite bold with only 2 ice screws. Sam did a great job burrowing out at the top.

with Sam H
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
mark turnbull ??/2011 2nd

i would say ian got it stop on with the grades for the 3 pitchs ,,nice 1 shall do better

PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
IceBun 29/Mar/10 AltLd

Fantastic conditions both on the route and overhead

with Tim W
mark-abz 21/Mar/10 Lead

Good conditions

with Alex
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
mike.moss ?/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox 20/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Lovely neve and frozen turf, seemed quite soft touch today, if a little bold.

with Scott Webster
adw07 15/Feb/09 AltLd dnf
RobScotland 29/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

We used 50m ropes and ended up moving together to have enough rope to reach the next belay at some points - 60m ropes would be better. Significant spindrift coming down the gully throughout most of the day - building to a very small powder avalanche at one point! Guidebook describes the route as 'a soft touch for the grade in good conditions.' and I reckon I'd agree with this - challenging in the lean / thawing conditions dominating on Saturday though! Leaner conditions than in 1995 guidebook photo!

with Duncan Tunstall
Elastic Jones 13/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Alistair
Hidden 19/Jan/08 Lead
wee hippy ??/2008 Lead
with john jones
Hidden 18/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
s kennedy 18/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
with mark mosgrove
jamestheyip 26/Jan/07 AltLd O/S
with Miguel Ciriza
andyinglis 03/Apr/06 AltLd O/S

Not hard, but quite bold in the conditions.

with Rob Glossop
Dirk Wallis ?/Feb/06 2nd
with Grrr
frost ?/Jan/06 AltLd
with N Griffiths
Hidden ?/Jan/05 AltLd
NeilGriffiths 22/Feb/03 -

Very lean and precarious top pitch. Didn't finish up Polythemus - ended up a faint, incipient groove.

with Simon Frost
oor wullie ??/2001 -
gergosantha 30/Jan/00 -
with Neil Cuthbert
Hidden 22/Jan/00 AltLd
Jim Walton 27/Feb/99 AltLd O/S
with Neil Mckenzie
Hidden ??/1998 AltLd
Grezza ?/Feb/97 Lead

heavy snowed conditions with frequent small avalanches

with Andy Kemp
Hidden ?/Apr/96 -
Hidden 01/Feb/95 AltLd
pauldrew ??/1995 AltLd
FrankW ?/Feb/94 AltLd O/S
with Andy R
pingora 03/Feb/93 AltLd O/S
with Blaggers
QuicNic ??/1989 AltLd

Very thin first pitch which I led, was very thankful to find a peg on the left as not much other gear. The rest was straight forward and in good nick.

Campbell42 14/Mar/87 AltLd O/S
with Kim Wainwright
Steve Crowe 14/Feb/87 AltLd O/S
Lone Rider 02/Feb/85 Solo

Slightly easier than Para B gully

Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
Neil McA 31/Dec/84 AltLd O/S

Excellent and quite challenging in the conditions. I do remember Dr P taking a fall seconding......

with Andy Perkins
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High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 25
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set