No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists

Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, 3 star Scottish winter, Scottish Winter IV-VII, Cold Climbs (slimmed down)

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
septic ?? -
MC 6 Mar, 2016 AltLd Bottom pitch fat ice good top pitch steep unconsolidated snow, wouldn't like to have fallen.
with Phil Whitfield
Bottom pitch fat ice good top pitch steep unconsolidated snow, wouldn't like to have fallen.
with Phil Whitfield
Plungeman 6 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead to the middle of the snow field on 70m ropes (which conveniently kept us out of the way of the teams ahead and behind), with Dave leading the ever taller step onto the upper section - superb hooks on the left. First time on steep ice in a few years meant interesting mind games for me!
Lead to the middle of the snow field on 70m ropes (which conveniently kept us out of the way of the teams ahead and behind), with Dave leading the ever taller step onto the upper section - superb hooks on the left. First time on steep ice in a few years meant interesting mind games for me!
buffalo606 6 Mar, 2016 AltLd
David Stevens 6 Mar, 2016 AltLd
Robertgiddy 5 Mar, 2016 Lead Decent climb in decent nick, rock belays good but required excavation, didn't find any rock runners! With Emma on the GUMC Ballater meet.
Decent climb in decent nick, rock belays good but required excavation, didn't find any rock runners! With Emma on the GUMC Ballater meet.
ESmith 5 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
scottmarcberry 28 Feb, 2016 AltLd Great steep ice pitches with great turf. Neil did an awesome job leading the hard, steep ice pitches. A little powdery between belays. Hard to find a belay in the final gully after the second good ice pitch. Had to build a bucket belay & attack the cornice head on. The approach to the cornice had patchy ice on the left then turned into steep & near vertical chossy snow. Feet placements kept collapsing with each axe placements ripping through powder with an inconvenient bulge at hip height. Eventually hacked away & committed to pulling up on very poor feet & even poorer axes. I had to pray they didn't rip & pull myself onto a thin shelf with the cornice overhanging & squeeze through a crawl space. Eventually stood up & threw my axes into the bomber neve on the summit. An exposed, run out, incredibly chossy & quite scary last pitch...awesome!
Great steep ice pitches with great turf. Neil did an awesome job leading the hard, steep ice pitches. A little powdery between belays. Hard to find a belay in the final gully after the second good ice pitch. Had to build a bucket belay & attack the cornice head on. The approach to the cornice had patchy ice on the left then turned into steep & near vertical chossy snow. Feet placements kept collapsing with each axe placements ripping through powder with an inconvenient bulge at hip height. Eventually hacked away & committed to pulling up on very poor feet & even poorer axes. I had to pray they didn't rip & pull myself onto a thin shelf with the cornice overhanging & squeeze through a crawl space. Eventually stood up & threw my axes into the bomber neve on the summit. An exposed, run out, incredibly chossy & quite scary last pitch...awesome!
ned_85 28 Feb, 2016 AltLd
with Scott Marc Berry
with Scott Marc Berry
Elastic Jones 25 Feb, 2016 AltLd rpt Took the crux this time,,,
with Alistair
Took the crux this time,,,
with Alistair
Hidden 10 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Feb, 2016 AltLd
hamish2016 6 Feb, 2016 Lead Drowning in spindrift!
with Ollie Ross
Drowning in spindrift!
with Ollie Ross
OliverRoss 6 Feb, 2016 2nd O/S Lots of spindrift!
Lots of spindrift!
mountain musher ??, 2016 -
mountain musher ??, 2016 -
mountain musher ??, 2016 -
adie84 17 Mar, 2015 -
The Grist 15 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Soft for the grade with decent enough protection. A good alpine day out.
with Nick Allsop
Soft for the grade with decent enough protection. A good alpine day out.
with Nick Allsop
masa-alpin 14 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S We placed 2 poor screws in the entire route. Not much rock gear either. Very serious – VI 5 in today's conditions. Ice or reasonable neve was there, turfs well frozen, and the weather was gorgeous. The temperature has never been above freezing all day from carpark to carpark. I lead P1 (60m) and P3 (70m), Misha did P2 (60m).
with Misha
We placed 2 poor screws in the entire route. Not much rock gear either. Very serious – VI 5 in today's conditions. Ice or reasonable neve was there, turfs well frozen, and the weather was gorgeous. The temperature has never been above freezing all day from carpark to carpark. I lead P1 (60m) and P3 (70m), Misha did P2 (60m).
with Misha
Misha 14 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S
abbeywall 21 Feb, 2015 AltLd First pitch rather cruddy, stepped out and lacking in protection
with Robert Durran, RL
First pitch rather cruddy, stepped out and lacking in protection
with Robert Durran, RL
michael83 21 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Straightforward, 3x60m pitches, led 1&3. Gear where needed.
with Mark020
Straightforward, 3x60m pitches, led 1&3. Gear where needed.
with Mark020
Hidden 21 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Feb, 2015 AltLd
alexm198 20 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Went to climb Parallel B, were beaten to it! Lead pitches 1 and 3. Team in front moving very slowly so there was a fair bit of waiting around. Very soft for grade V, felt like a IV with basically no gear.
with Caspar
Went to climb Parallel B, were beaten to it! Lead pitches 1 and 3. Team in front moving very slowly so there was a fair bit of waiting around. Very soft for grade V, felt like a IV with basically no gear.
with Caspar
drsdave 16 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Soloed up to the ice cave then belayed. Sketchy start with little protection up to the ice cave. Not a V more a technical 4
with Neil Mackie
Soloed up to the ice cave then belayed. Sketchy start with little protection up to the ice cave. Not a V more a technical 4
with Neil Mackie
neilmackie 15 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
with dave woodhouse
with dave woodhouse
AndyL 15 Feb, 2015 AltLd Just lead the easy pitches
Just lead the easy pitches
Little AndyH 14 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
Craig Holden 14 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Good but rather soft as it was stepped out.
with Alex Toomey
Good but rather soft as it was stepped out.
with Alex Toomey
Hidden 14 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
annep11 14 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Led just the easy middle pitch. Good rock belays on every pitch but not much gear in between.
Led just the easy middle pitch. Good rock belays on every pitch but not much gear in between.
Liam Ingram 14 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Finally a successful route on Lochnagar. Led the difficult pitches. First pitch very bold and thin.
with annep11
Finally a successful route on Lochnagar. Led the difficult pitches. First pitch very bold and thin.
with annep11
Hidden 14 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
alex toomey 14 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S stepped out
stepped out
peter.herd 11 Feb, 2015 AltLd
with Steven A
with Steven A
Steven Andrews 11 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Bit of a cruddy first pitch added to the excitement but a classic gully climb.
with Pete
Bit of a cruddy first pitch added to the excitement but a classic gully climb.
with Pete
Captain Solo 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd Slightly cruddy top layer on first pitch but good ice and neve after that, no cornice issues, up in no time.
with Brian
Slightly cruddy top layer on first pitch but good ice and neve after that, no cornice issues, up in no time.
with Brian
saintlade ??, 2014 -
yesbutnobutyesbut ??, 2014 -
prcleary ??, 2014 -
Simon Yearsley 3 Mar, 2013 AltLd
Malcolm Bass 3 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S Beautiful day. Zero degrees at car park at 6 am. We kept above freezing level all day except for 15 mins at bottom of first pitch when there was slight dripping. Whole route iced, but sections on un transformed snow needed care. The first step on straight up way above belay on P3 was unconsiolidated, but great mixed moves up left wall (5) got us back. onto the ice. Rest of P3 in great nick. Cornice pitch soft snow.
with Simon Yearsley
Beautiful day. Zero degrees at car park at 6 am. We kept above freezing level all day except for 15 mins at bottom of first pitch when there was slight dripping. Whole route iced, but sections on un transformed snow needed care. The first step on straight up way above belay on P3 was unconsiolidated, but great mixed moves up left wall (5) got us back. onto the ice. Rest of P3 in great nick. Cornice pitch soft snow.
with Simon Yearsley
telemarker 24 Feb, 2013 AltLd dnf Bailed as there was zero ice. Very poor conditions.
with Dave Douglas, freudy_love
Bailed as there was zero ice. Very poor conditions.
with Dave Douglas, freudy_love
Dave Douglas 24 Feb, 2013 Lead dnf What no ice, retreated with tails between legs!!
What no ice, retreated with tails between legs!!
ig248 2 Feb, 2013 Lead dnf Loose snow
with Kirill
Loose snow
with Kirill
Kirill 2 Feb, 2013 AltLd dnf Ran away to fight another day
with ig248
Ran away to fight another day
with ig248
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Ollie B 28 Jan, 2012 Lead dnf Did P1 and abbed off, very thin with little gear after belay tat (did attempt to continue). Did moonshadow instead.
with J.Monypenny
Did P1 and abbed off, very thin with little gear after belay tat (did attempt to continue). Did moonshadow instead.
with J.Monypenny
James Smith 23 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S very thin in places, needing a bold and delicate approach to not bash all the ice away! climbing not technically hard though so soft touch for the grade.
with stu, sam
very thin in places, needing a bold and delicate approach to not bash all the ice away! climbing not technically hard though so soft touch for the grade.
with stu, sam
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Chris wilson 6 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S Scottish winter climbing as it should be, blue skies/warm sun but with good neve/ice and even an easy exit already carved through the cornice.
with Jon B
Scottish winter climbing as it should be, blue skies/warm sun but with good neve/ice and even an easy exit already carved through the cornice.
with Jon B
Ian Jones 3 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Nowhere near grade V. Pitch one is IV 4, pitch three is III 3! Protection is fine. The runout section is II. Don't know why this is in 'Cold Climbs'.
Nowhere near grade V. Pitch one is IV 4, pitch three is III 3! Protection is fine. The runout section is II. Don't know why this is in 'Cold Climbs'.
Lamb 1 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S Brilliant! Sooperb day on the hill! Good ice although not smashing for screws, lovely chewy stuff! Ideal.
with Joel Paterson, Stephen18
Brilliant! Sooperb day on the hill! Good ice although not smashing for screws, lovely chewy stuff! Ideal.
with Joel Paterson, Stephen18
Stephen18 1 Mar, 2011 AltLd
morsg 27 Feb, 2011 AltLd
with morsy
with morsy
Chris L Hill 27 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S Easier than V in todays condition - excellent climb, great ice.
with Gwilym, Simon Pearce
Easier than V in todays condition - excellent climb, great ice.
with Gwilym, Simon Pearce
morsy 27 Feb, 2011 AltLd Great route
with gerhard mors
Great route
with gerhard mors
sparbus 6 Feb, 2011 AltLd
with FedUp
with FedUp
mark88 29 Jan, 2011 AltLd
with Joey Durkin
with Joey Durkin
rob1 29 Jan, 2011 AltLd
with drew52
with drew52
joeydurkin 29 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with mark88
with mark88
Hidden 29 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
John Workman 23 Jan, 2011 Lead
with Apprentice
with Apprentice
Hidden 22 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 AltLd
mark turnbull ??, 2011 2nd i would say ian got it stop on with the grades for the 3 pitchs ,,nice 1 shall do better
i would say ian got it stop on with the grades for the 3 pitchs ,,nice 1 shall do better
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
IceBun 29 Mar, 2010 AltLd Fantastic conditions both on the route and overhead
with Tim W
Fantastic conditions both on the route and overhead
with Tim W
mark-abz 21 Mar, 2010 Lead Good conditions
with Alex
Good conditions
with Alex
Hidden ??, 2010 -
mike.moss ?Dec, 2009 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox 20 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S Lovely neve and frozen turf, seemed quite soft touch today, if a little bold.
with Scott Webster
Lovely neve and frozen turf, seemed quite soft touch today, if a little bold.
with Scott Webster
Hidden 15 Feb, 2009 AltLd dnf
RobScotland 29 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S We used 50m ropes and ended up moving together to have enough rope to reach the next belay at some points - 60m ropes would be better. Significant spindrift coming down the gully throughout most of the day - building to a very small powder avalanche at one point! Guidebook describes the route as 'a soft touch for the grade in good conditions.' and I reckon I'd agree with this - challenging in the lean / thawing conditions dominating on Saturday though! Leaner conditions than in 1995 guidebook photo!
with Duncan Tunstall
We used 50m ropes and ended up moving together to have enough rope to reach the next belay at some points - 60m ropes would be better. Significant spindrift coming down the gully throughout most of the day - building to a very small powder avalanche at one point! Guidebook describes the route as 'a soft touch for the grade in good conditions.' and I reckon I'd agree with this - challenging in the lean / thawing conditions dominating on Saturday though! Leaner conditions than in 1995 guidebook photo!
with Duncan Tunstall
Elastic Jones 13 Feb, 2008 2nd O/S
with Alistair
with Alistair
Hidden 19 Jan, 2008 Lead
wee hippy ??, 2008 Lead
with john jones
with john jones
Hidden 18 Feb, 2007 AltLd O/S
s kennedy 18 Feb, 2007 AltLd O/S
with mark mosgrove
with mark mosgrove
jamestheyip 26 Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Miguel Ciriza
with Miguel Ciriza
andyinglis 3 Apr, 2006 AltLd O/S Not hard, but quite bold in the conditions.
with Rob Glossop
Not hard, but quite bold in the conditions.
with Rob Glossop
Dirk Wallis ?Feb, 2006 2nd
with gforce
with gforce
Hidden ?Jan, 2005 AltLd
NeilGriffiths 22 Feb, 2003 - Very lean and precarious top pitch. Didn't finish up Polythemus - ended up a faint, incipient groove.
Very lean and precarious top pitch. Didn't finish up Polythemus - ended up a faint, incipient groove.
frost 22 Feb, 2003 AltLd
with N Griffiths
with N Griffiths
James Gordon ?Feb, 2002 -
oor wullie ??, 2001 -
gergosantha 30 Jan, 2000 -
with Neil Cuthbert
with Neil Cuthbert
steveb2006 22 Jan, 2000 AltLd Weather poor with snow and a strong north wind, but the route is in good nick and not too hard for the grade. Good climbing. An accident in Douglas Gibson gully one climber killed.
with Tim Cairns
Weather poor with snow and a strong north wind, but the route is in good nick and not too hard for the grade. Good climbing. An accident in Douglas Gibson gully one climber killed.
with Tim Cairns
Jim Walton 27 Feb, 1999 AltLd O/S
with Neil Mckenzie
with Neil Mckenzie
Hidden ??, 1998 AltLd
Grezza ?Feb, 1997 Lead heavy snowed conditions with frequent small avalanches
with Andy Kemp
heavy snowed conditions with frequent small avalanches
with Andy Kemp
Hidden ?Apr, 1996 -
Hidden 1 Feb, 1995 AltLd
pauldrew ??, 1995 AltLd
FrankW ?Feb, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Andy R
with Andy R
pingora 3 Feb, 1993 AltLd O/S
with Blaggers
with Blaggers
QuicNic ??, 1989 AltLd Very thin first pitch which I led, was very thankful to find a peg on the left as not much other gear. The rest was straight forward and in good nick.
Very thin first pitch which I led, was very thankful to find a peg on the left as not much other gear. The rest was straight forward and in good nick.
Campbell42 14 Mar, 1987 AltLd O/S
with Kim Wainwright
with Kim Wainwright
Steve Crowe 14 Feb, 1987 AltLd O/S
Brian Wilderspin 31 Jan, 1987 AltLd O/S
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
Lone Rider 2 Feb, 1985 Solo Slightly easier than Para B gully
Slightly easier than Para B gully
Hidden ??, 1985 AltLd
Neil McA 31 Dec, 1984 AltLd O/S Excellent and quite challenging in the conditions. I do remember Dr P taking a fall seconding......
with Andy Perkins
Excellent and quite challenging in the conditions. I do remember Dr P taking a fall seconding......
with Andy Perkins
46 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 25
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set