UKC

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
Start with 1 hand on the wedge on the low left and one hand on a low undercling in the center of the face. Use intermediates to gain the centre sloping ledge and top out at the centre point. Anything above the wedge on the arĂȘte is out (including the high left jug).

The narrow triangle-shaped boulder is located a short walk into Dungy Head beach quite close to the cliffs leaning against a boulder with a small cave.

FA. Adam Jaggard Jan/2020.

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High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
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Route of Interest
Blade

Grade: f6B ***
(Lighthouse Area)

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